Thayer Jacket Sew-Along

Learn to sew the Thayer Jacket with our complete step-by-step guide! This workwear-inspired design takes you from fall to winter with ease. We'll guide you through pattern alterations, signature topstitching, unique inseam yoke pockets, bagging a lining, and collar attachment.

Lesson 1

Ready-To-Wear Inspiration

Collage of workwear-inspired jackets in corduroy, denim, and canvas showing various colors including pink, rust, cream, and blue

Kick off your Thayer Jacket with inspiration from ready-to-wear! We explore fabric options from classic denim and shearling combinations to modern corduroy, twill, canvas, and creative alternatives like quilted linings. Get your creative wheels turning before you start sewing.

Get Inspired

Lesson 2

Selecting Your Fabrics

Main Fabrics

For the main fabric we recommend choosing medium to heavy-weight wovens like denim, corduroy, twill, or canvas with structure, just make sure they're not too thick for your machine to handle.

Denim

The original Thayer jacket was designed for denim so we know it works perfectly. We recommend non-stretch denim like Cone Mills, which sews beautifully and wears like a dream. Don't limit yourself to blue – denims in black, red, and olive green offer creative alternatives to traditional denim.

Canvas & Twill

Canvas and twill give the Thayer a true workwear vibe, subtly referencing Carhartt jackets. Look for fabrics between 7–10 oz in weight — lighter won't have enough substance, while heavier may be difficult for home machines. Great for those wanting an authentic workwear aesthetic.

Corduroy

Corduroy is a great option for the Thayer with its rich texture and warmth. You'll find lots of beautiful colors available in different wales. "Wales" refer to the fuzzy ridges on the fabric – 8-wale means 8 ridges per inch, while 21-wale means 21 ridges per inch. Look for options in various wales to find one that appeals to you.

Body & Sleeve Linings

Body Lining: The Thayer was designed with fuzzy sherpa lining in mind for warmth and comfort. You'll find our favorite sherpa sources, plus alternative options like flannel or even quilts for creative takes on the classic lined jacket.

Sleeve Lining: A slippery quilted lining for sleeves makes it easy to slip arms in and out, especially over sweaters. You'll learn why we use different lining fabrics for the body versus sleeves and where to source this specialty fabric.

Choose Your Fabrics

Lesson 3

Thayer Supply List

The first step to a successful project is making sure you have everything you'll need from start to finish right at hand. This post covers all the essential tools & supplies — from topstitching needles and thread to pressing equipment — plus links to our favorites!

Flat lay of Thayer Jacket sewing supplies including pattern, fabrics, thread, needles, scissors, rulers, and snap closures

1. Thayer Pattern

The first thing you'll need is the Thayer Pattern. You can purchase it as a paper pattern or downloadable PDF here.

2. Main Fabric & Linings

For the Thayer you'll need 3 types of fabrics. A main fabric for the shell, a soft lining fabric for the body and top collar, and a quilted lining fabric for the sleeves. Below is a list of what we're using for each part of the jacket. If you’re on the fence about what to use for your Thayer, check out our prior post about fabric choices.

3. Fusible Interfacing

You’ll want either a woven or tricot fusible interfacing in approximately the same weight as the fabric you’re using. Avoid bonded interfacings as they lack the drape necessary to produce a professional looking garment you’ll want to wear.

4. All-Purpose Thread

You'll need an all purpose thread for the construction of this jacket. I prefer to use standard poly thread for my garments. I like poly because I pre-treat my fabrics and I know that poly won’t shrink when laundered, keeping my seams nice and neat. You'll need one spool that matches the shell of your jacket and one for the lining if you're using a different color.

Gather Your Supplies

Lesson 4

Choose Your Size

Dress form with measurement points and Thayer Jacket size chart showing body and finished measurements for sizes 0 through 18

Learn how to take the three key measurements needed for the Thayer Jacket and select your size from the size chart. We cover why bust and hip measurements are most important for this A-line jacket design, how to handle falling between sizes, and when you might need to blend sizes for the best fit.

Find Your Size

Grab the Thayer Jacket Pattern

Lesson 5

Common Pattern Adjustments

Need to adjust your pattern for the perfect Thayer fit? We cover blending between sizes, lengthening and shortening the pattern, plus full and small bust adjustments. Learn the recommended order for making multiple adjustments and get step-by-step guidance for customizing your pattern pieces.

Three diagrams showing Thayer Jacket full bust adjustment with slash lines, spread pattern pieces, and graded changes

Blending Between Sizes

When your measurements fall into different sizes, you can blend between them for a better fit. We show you how to gradually transition from one size to another across the pattern pieces, which pattern pieces need adjustments, and how to handle internal markings like pocket placement.

Lengthening and Shortening

Adjust the length of your Thayer using the lengthen/shorten lines marked on the pattern. We walk you through cutting and spreading (or overlapping) pattern pieces, keeping grain lines aligned, and which pieces need identical adjustments to maintain proper fit.

Small and Full Bust Adjustments

Learn the difference between sewing cup size and bra cup size, then determine if you need a bust adjustment. We cover the complete process for bust adjustments including slashing, spreading, dart manipulation, and adjusting both shell and lining pieces to match.

Perfect Your Fit

Lesson 6

Cutting your Fabric

Layout diagram showing all Thayer Jacket pattern pieces organized by main fabric, sleeve lining, and body lining sections

Ready to cut your Thayer Jacket? We guide you through cutting all four fabric types with key tips for each — from marking crucial match points on the main fabric to trimming sleeve lining pieces correctly. Learn important cutting considerations for napped fabrics, grain lines, and how to avoid common mistakes.

Start Cutting

Lesson 7

Assembling the Jacket Fronts

Three Thayer Jacket pieces in navy and light blue denim showing yoke attachment, pocket construction, and princess seams

It's time to start sewing! We'll walk you through assembling the jacket fronts, from fusing the collar interfacing to sewing the princess seams and attaching the yoke.

Start Sewing

Lesson 8

Sewing the Pockets

Thayer Jacket pocket construction in navy denim showing inseam pocket pieces on left and completed patch pockets on right

Time to tackle the Thayer's pockets! Learn to create the inseam yoke pockets with their unique buttonhole construction, then move on to attaching the patch pockets.

Create Your Pockets

Lesson 9

Assembling the Jacket Back

Thayer Jacket back in navy denim showing center back seam and yoke attachment with topstitching detail

With your fronts complete, it's time to construct the jacket back! This straightforward post covers sewing the center back seam with proper grading and pressing, then attaching the back yoke with the same topstitching techniques you've been using.

Complete Your Back

Lesson 10

Sewing Sleeves & Side Seams

Thayer Jacket in navy denim showing shoulder seams, two-piece sleeves set flat, and continuous side seams with topstitching

This is where your Thayer really starts to come together! Sew the shoulder seams, construct the sleeves, then set them flat into the armholes for the jacket's relaxed fit. Finish by sewing the continuous side seams from jacket hem through sleeve hem.

Assemble Your Shell

Lesson 11

Assembling the Lining

Thayer Jacket lining laid flat showing cream wool body with quilted gray sleeve lining and collar construction in progress

Time to create the lining for your Thayer! This post mirrors the shell construction process but includes important differences - like darts for the D-cup size range and special pressing considerations for the quilted sleeve lining. Learn to construct both body and sleeve linings.

Create Your Lining

Lesson 12

Lining the Jacket

Thayer Jacket shell and lining shown flat in navy denim with detail of bagged lining seam allowances and construction method

Time to attach your lining using the bagging technique. This process requires some trust as you flip the jacket through the neck opening, but the result is a fully lined jacket with clean, enclosed seams throughout.

Insert Your Lining

Lesson 13

Collar & Collarstand

Thayer Jacket collar construction in navy denim showing collar stand attached to neckline with cream interfacing layers visible

You're in the home stretch! Learn to construct and attach the Thayer's collar and collar stand with detailed topstitching. This post covers interfacing placement, assembling collar components, attaching to the neckline, and finishing techniques including both machine and hand-sewing options.

Attach Your Collar

Lesson 14

Buttons & Buttonholes

Thayer Jacket in navy denim with brass snap closure, hammer, and awl showing hardware installation for front closure finishing

The final step in your Thayer journey! Learn to mark and create buttonholes using helpful techniques like test samples and Stitch-N-Tear. Then attach jeans buttons (or regular buttons) with proper placement and installation methods. Tips included for avoiding common pitfalls with thick fabrics.

Finish Your Thayer

Extras

Button label
  • Package of Schmetz topstitch needles shown with two loose needles displaying their large eyes for heavy thread

    Our Topstitching Tips

    Master the extensive topstitching that gives the Thayer its signature workwear look! This comprehensive guide covers needle and thread selection, special feet, stitch length, bartacks, and thread handling techniques. Learn to achieve clean, even topstitching lines with tips for avoiding common problems.

    Perfect Your Topstitching 
  • Hand using seam ripper to remove stitched buttonhole on orange twill fabric before cutting open, shown in video tutorial

    Easy Buttonhole Removal

    Mistakes can happen when creating buttonholes in thick, multi-layered fabric. This video tutorial shows the easy way to remove buttonholes without damaging your fabric - but only works BEFORE you cut the buttonhole open! Essential troubleshooting for when machines skip stitches or quit mid-buttonhole.

    Fix Your Buttonholes 
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Button label