Thayer Sew-Along: Collar
We're in the home stretch – today we'll be assembling and attaching the Thayer Collar! If you need to catch up on any sew-along steps, you can view the full Thayer Sew-Along Directory here.
Make sure your collar and collar stand pieces are interfaced before you start sewing. We covered this previously in the sew-along but if you missed it, this is what you'll need to interface.
With the right sides together and notches matching, sew the center back seam of the under collars.
Press the seam allowance open.
Sew one collar stand to the under collar and one collar stand to the top collar, matching notches. Grade and notch the seam allowances.
Press the seam allowances towards the collar stands. Topstitch one line ⅛" away from seam line through the collar stand and seam allowance. In the above images you can see both the fronts, then backs of the collar pieces at this point.
Align the top collar and under collar with the right sides together, matching sides and unnotched edge. Sew as shown above.
Grade the seam allowance of the upper collar by trimming the seam allowance in half. Clip the corners through both layers as shown.
Flip the collar right side out and press, making sure the seam line rolls towards the under collar.
With right sides together, pin the under collar to the neckline of the jacket, matching notches and ends. Sew from end to end through the under collar and jacket.
Grade and clip the seam allowance as shown.
Press the seam allowance and the under collar up, away from the jacket. The above images show this step from both the shell and lining side of the jacket.
Now press the raw edge of the upper collar under along the seam line. You can either pin this edge in place, or baste. Either way works great, it's completely up to you.
In the pattern instructions, we have you topstitch along the seam line on the under collar through the under collar, jacket, and top collar. There's another method though if you're not feeling confident in this step.
You can hand sew the collar in place! The plus of this is you don't have to worry about your thread potentially matching either the shell or the lining, it's hidden so nothing shows.
The final step is to topstitch the collar stand. With the top collar facing up, topstitch ¼" away from the ⅛" existing topstitching line, through all layers.
Your collar is now attached! All we have left is the buttons and button holes so stay tuned for that step. We're almost done now!