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Thayer Sew-Along: Collar

We're in the home stretch – today we'll be assembling and attaching the Thayer Collar! If you need to catch up on any sew-along steps, you can view the full Thayer Sew-Along Directory here.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Make sure your collar and collar stand pieces are interfaced before you start sewing. We covered this previously in the sew-along but if you missed it, this is what you'll need to interface.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

With the right sides together and notches matching, sew the center back seam of the under collars. 

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowance open.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Sew one collar stand to the under collar and one collar stand to the top collar, matching notches. Grade and notch the seam allowances.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowances towards the collar stands. Topstitch one line " away from seam line through the collar stand and seam allowance. In the above images you can see both the fronts, then backs of the collar pieces at this point.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Align the top collar and under collar with the right sides together, matching sides and unnotched edge. Sew as shown above.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance of the upper collar by trimming the seam allowance in half. Clip the corners through both layers as shown.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Flip the collar right side out and press, making sure the seam line rolls towards the under collar.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

With right sides together, pin the under collar to the neckline of the jacket, matching notches and ends. Sew from end to end through the under collar and jacket.

 

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Grade and clip the seam allowance as shown.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowance and the under collar up, away from the jacket. The above images show this step from both the shell and lining side of the jacket.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Now press the raw edge of the upper collar under along the seam line. You can either pin this edge in place, or baste. Either way works great, it's completely up to you.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

In the pattern instructions, we have you topstitch along the seam line on the under collar through the under collar, jacket, and top collar. There's another method though if you're not feeling confident in this step.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You can hand sew the collar in place! The plus of this is you don't have to worry about your thread potentially matching either the shell or the lining, it's hidden so nothing shows.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

The final step is to topstitch the collar stand. With the top collar facing up, topstitch ¼" away from the " existing topstitching line, through all layers.

Thayer Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Your collar is now attached! All we have left is the buttons and button holes so stay tuned for that step. We're almost done now!

Thayer Sew-Along: Collars | Grainline Studio

Mentioned Products

  • Thayer Jacket
    Thayer Jacket
    Regular price
    Sale price