Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining
The next step in our Thayer Sew-Along is to assemble our linings. This varies slightly based on which pattern you're working from. The 14 – 30 D-cup pattern has a dart in the lining to accommodate the larger bust size, while the 0 – 18 B-cup pattern does not. If your pattern does not have a dart, skip ahead over the next three steps.
14 – 30 D-cup Pattern Only
Grab a front lining piece and fold it with the right sides together, aligning the dart legs. Stitch from the shoulder down to the dart point.
Clip into the dart point and press the seam allowance open as shown above. We stopped clipping approximately 1" from the dart point and pressed that portion of the dart flat.
Here you can see your dart from the front. Repeat these steps for the other front lining.
All Sizes
From here the construction is the same for both patterns. These steps also mirror those from our last post, Assembling the Shell.
Align the shoulder seams of the fronts and back with right sides together. Sew and press the seam allowances open.
Align the upper and under sleeves along the notched edge, matching edges and notches. Sew and press the seam allowances open. HOT TIP! If you're using our recommended sleeve lining do not press your seam allowances open on the wrong side of the fabric without a press cloth, you will melt the lining. Ask us how we know. Repeat for the other sleeve.
We'll now sew the sleeve caps into the armholes flat, the same way we did for the shell. Align the edges, and notches – please note that you will not have marked the upper sleeve match point on the lining. If you have there is nowhere to match it on the body lining, so just ignore it.
Once both sleeves are sewn in, clip the seam allowances on the front and back underarm curve and press seam allowances towards sleeve.
Now align the underarm seams of the jacket with right sides facing and sew from the body hem, through the underarm, to the sleeve hem. Press the seam allowances open.
Repeat for the other underarm seam and you're all set with the lining!
If you have any questions about your lining, let us know in the comments below. Otherwise we'll see you back here to line our jackets!
