Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts

We've done all our prep and today we get to start sewing! Originally we had planned to include all of the steps to complete the front jackets in one post but it just became way too long. So we're splitting it up into a few posts, to keep things from becoming overwhelming.

We'll be assembling our jacket fronts in this post, but quickly before we get started lets fuse our collar pieces. This is always the first step for me so that I don't have to slow down and fuse later. 

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Lay out your pattern pieces with the wrong side facing up. On top of them align the corresponding interfacing pieces with the glue side facing down. Follow the instructions included with your brand of fusible interfacing to adhere the interfacing to the pieces. Now it's really time to sew!

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Align the side front and center front pieces along the princess seam with right sides together. Sew along the seamline, backtacking and leaving an opening between the match points you transferred from your pattern. You can see the openings in the closeup image above. These will form the buttonhole of the yoke pocket.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowances open.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Finish the raw edge of the upper pocket bag if desired. This will be the only non-enclosed raw edge on the jacket so we serged across ours.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Lay the lower front out with the right side facing up, then place the yoke face down on top of it, matching the edges and match points of the yoke seam. Sew across the seam stopping at the first match point and backstitching. Clip your threads and start sewing again at the next match point, over to the other edge. The unsewn portion is the pocket opening.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

This is what your front looks like from the other side at this point, just for reference.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Clip into the corners and grade the seam allowance by cutting the yoke seam allowance in half.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowance of yoke upwards, and the pocket pieces down as shown.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Your front now looks like this – repeat these steps for the other side! If you have any questions let us know in the comments below. Next up we'll be forming the yoke pockets.

Thayer Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts | Grainline Studio

Mentioned Products

  • Thayer Jacket
    Thayer Jacket
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