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Thayer Sew-Along: Supply List

Thayer Sew-Along: Supply List | Grainline Studio

1. Thayer Jacket Pattern: You can purchase the Thayer Jacket pattern as a printed pattern or PDF here.

2. Fabric: For the Thayer you'll need 3 types of fabrics. A main fabric for the shell, a soft lining fabric for the body and top collar, and a quilted lining fabric for the sleeves. Below is a list of what we're using for each part of the jacket. If you’re on the fence about what to use for your Thayer, check out our prior post about fabric choices.

  • Main Fabric: We'll be using a standard denim for our Thayer due to the fact it has a visible right and wrong side and shows topstitching well.
  • Body Lining: For the body lining we're using this Michael Miller organic cotton sherpa. 
  • Sleeve Lining: We prefer this quilted lining fabric for the sleeves and will be using it during this sew along as well.

3. Fusible Interfacing: You’ll want either a woven or tricot fusible interfacing in approximately the same weight as the fabric you’re using. Avoid bonded interfacings as they lack the drape necessary to produce a professional looking garment you’ll want to wear.

4. All Purpose Thread: You'll need an all purpose thread for the construction of this jacket. I prefer to use standard poly thread for my garments. I like poly because I pre-treat my fabrics and I know that poly won’t shrink when laundered, keeping my seams nice and neat. You'll need one spool that matches the shell of your jacket and one for the lining if you're using a different color.

5. Topstitching Thread: Almost every seam on the Thayer is topstitched so you'll need topstitching thread! My favorite thread for this task is Gutermann Extra Strong Thread. It's basically Gutermann's consumer version of the Mara 70 favored by a lot of jeans makers. The put up is more suited to home sewing machines, being on a standard spool. It's also more readily available. 

6. Needles: You'll need a heavy duty needle for your shell, try to choose one that corresponds with the weight of your fabric. You'll also need a topstitching needle for all that topstitching! It has a slightly larger eye so that the thread can pass through it more easily. You'll be glad you got one.

7. Marking Chalk: You’ll need chalk or your favorite removable marking pen to both trace out your pattern as well as trace your quilting lines onto your pattern. This is my favorite chalk tracing pen, but use whatever works for you!

8. Pins: Whatever pins you usually use will likely be just fine for this as long as they correspond with your fabric choice. For example dressmaker’s pins would be a great choice. If you’re into to cute pins, these Clover Glass Head Pins are our new favorites around the studio. They’re so fine and sharp!

9. Regular Machine Foot: I love my 1/4″ foot (which BERNINA calls the Patchwork Foot) because of the accuracy it provides but I recommend using whatever you’re used to. You may also want an edgestitching foot which looks like this for all the topstitching you'll be doing.

10. Scissors: I’m not much of a rotary person, but the scissors I find most useful for almost every project I make are my Gingher bent handle shearsembroidery scissors, and thread snips. I couldn’t sew without them.

11. Rulers: You’ll need a tape measure to take your measurements as well as lay out your pattern pieces for cutting. We also like to have an 18″ gridded ruler handy as well as a seam gauge for pressing up your hems.

12. Ham & Sleeve Roll: I highly recommend having these on hand for your pressing. The Hadley is a simple top so any wacky pressing will really show up! I have this ham and sleeve roll by Dritz.

13. Point Turner: We love our point turner for poking corners out neatly before we press. We avoid anything too sharp as they can go through the corner and ruin your project!

14. Point Presser: We use this to press the points of the jacket and collar, and while it's not required, it does make life a lot easier!

15. Buttons: If you're making either of views A or B you'll need 8 – 5/8" buttons. We used jeans buttons for our sample jackets but you can just as easily swap those out for standard buttons. The choice is up to you!

So that’s about it for supplies, next up we’ll talk about sizing. If you have any supply questions just let us know in the comments below!

Thayer Jacket Sew-Along: Gathering Supplies | Grainline Studio

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