Cascade Coat Sew-Along

Follow along at your own pace as you sew the Cascade Duffle Coat with our step-by-step guide! This fresh take on the classic duffle features a slight A-line cut and toggle front closure. We'll guide you through fabric selection, mastering the hidden zipper band that keeps out cold weather, plus you'll learn to construct either the generous collar or roomy hood. Choose between two lengths and swap collar for hood to create your perfect winter coat.

Lesson 1

Ready-To-Wear Inspiration

Three duffle coat styling examples: teal coat with Breton top and yellow beanie, gray toggle coat, red hooded coat in snow

Explore duffle coat inspiration before you begin! This post shares a curated collection of classic and modern toggle applications, fabric choices, and styling ideas. Duffle coats are timeless silhouettes that transition beautifully into modern wardrobes, pairing perfectly with Breton tops and offering endless variation through fabric and color choices.

Get Inspired

Lesson 2

Choosing & Working with Wool Coating

Selecting wool coating can feel intimidating with so many options! Learn about different wool types including boiled, melton, tweed, double-faced, and bouclé, plus essential wool properties that make it ideal for coats. This comprehensive guide covers fabric selection, pre-treating, interfacing application, and construction tips.

Six wool coating fabric swatches: gray tweed, mustard yellow, red plaid, solid red, navy plaid, and heathered gray

Understanding Wool Types

Not all wool coatings are created equal! This post breaks down five main types — boiled, melton, tweed, double-faced, and bouclé — explaining the characteristics of each and how to choose based on the drape and warmth level you want for your finished coat.

Wool Properties

Discover why wool is the ideal cold weather fabric. Learn about its natural resilience, insulation properties, moisture-wicking abilities, and flame resistance that make it perfect for a coat you'll wear season after season.

Construction Essentials

Get professional results with key techniques for working with wool coating. This guide covers pre-treating methods, strategic interfacing placement to prevent stretching, bulk reduction through grading, proper pressing techniques with steam, and the best tools to make sewing thick layers easier.

Choose Your Fabrics

Lesson 3

Cascade Supply List

Before you start sewing, gather everything you need for your Cascade! This comprehensive supply guide covers main fabric options from wool coating to canvas, lining recommendations, interfacing choices, zippers, toggle closures, and all the essential notions and tools. Use this as your checklist to ensure you're ready to dive in.

Toggle-making supplies: navy leather scraps, black leather cord, Krazy Glue tube, and three navy toggle buttons arranged on white surface

1. Cascade Pattern

The first thing you'll need is the Cascae Pattern. You can purchase it as a downloadable PDF here.

2. Main Fabric & Lining

Choose medium to heavy weight coating fabrics like melton, boiled, or felted wool for a warm winter coat, or consider canvas, twill, denim, or water-resistant waxed canvas for lighter versions. Discover why Bemberg 'Ambiance' rayon lining is the top recommendation, including its breathability, wear resistance, and static-free properties. This post includes specific fabric sources and shopping recommendations.

3. Fusible Interfacing

Find out which fusible interfacing works best for coat construction. This section explains why medium weight tricot fusible is recommended for wool coats, how it allows natural fabric movement, and which interfacings to avoid that can make your coat feel stiff.

4. Zippers & Toggles

Get guidance on selecting the right 18" or 22" separating zipper, including readily available brands and specialty options. Learn about pre-made toggle options versus making your own, including materials needed and where to source quality toggle buttons and leather supplies.

5. Essential Tools & Notions

Beyond the basics like thread, needles, and cutting supplies, learn which specialized tools make coat construction easier. This comprehensive list covers everything from walking feet and long quilting pins to tailors hams, chalk markers, and pressing tools that help achieve professional results.

Gather Your Supplies

Lesson 4

Selecting Your Size & Cutting Your Pieces

Cascade Duffle Coat pattern pieces pinned to gray and gold geometric print wool coating fabric with scissors visible

Get ready to cut your Cascade with confidence! This guide covers selecting your size with proper ease considerations, organizing which of the 40 pattern pieces you need, pre-treating fabrics, matching plaids with two-piece sleeves, strategic interfacing placement for high-stress areas, and fusing techniques to prep all your pieces for construction.

Cut & Prep

Grab the Cascade Coat Pattern

Lesson 5

Assembling the Fronts, Backs & Pockets

Completed patch pocket with gray lining on geometric print wool coating, topstitched edges and colorful pins nearby

Construction begins! Attach yokes to front and back body pieces with proper grading and topstitching techniques. Create professional patch pockets where the lining is intentionally smaller to hide seams, then position and secure them to your coat with optional triangle tacks for durability at stress points.

Start Sewing

Lesson 6

Making Your Own Toggle Closures

Completed toggle closure with black leather tabs connected by black cord threaded through black toggle button on white surface

Ready to create custom toggle closures? This tutorial walks you through tracing the pattern piece onto leather, cutting six tabs, measuring and cutting leather lacing to the proper length, threading toggle buttons, and using super glue to secure everything. Let your toggles dry overnight before attachment.

Make Your Toggles

Lesson 7

Attaching Front Bands — View A

Front band pinned to geometric print wool coat with colorful pins marking placement along folded edge

The front bands frame your Cascade's closure and help keep out the cold. Learn the folding, stitching, and grading techniques that create crisp edges, plus discover why this View A version works without a zipper for a more casual look on the shorter jacket length. Perfect alignment tips included.

Attach the Bands

Lesson 8

Attaching Front Bands with Zipper — View B

Hand positioning zipper band layers on gray wool coat showing brass separating zipper sandwiched between fabric bands

View B adds a hidden zipper for extra weather protection! Learn to create zipper band sandwiches, align both sides perfectly, and attach front bands with precise placement. This post includes tips for sewing through multiple layers and ensuring proper alignment before toggle attachment. Works for either view!

Add Your Zipper

Lesson 9

Attaching the Toggle Closures

Sewing machine with green Teflon foot stitching black leather toggle tab to gray wool coat fabric

Time to attach those beautiful toggles! This detailed guide covers testing placement, why leather needles matter, the importance of practice stitching on leather, proper thread handling without backstitching, and machine foot options for smooth sewing. Includes tips on temporary adhesive choices for leather surfaces.

Add Your Toggles

Lesson 10

Side Seams & Setting Sleeves

Two-piece sleeve construction showing geometric print wool upper and lower sleeve pieces pinned together with colorful pins

Watch your coat transform from flat pieces into a wearable garment. Sew fronts to backs at side seams and shoulders, then construct two-piece sleeves with careful attention to matching prints. Learn proper basting techniques for easing sleeve caps, strategic pinning methods, and how to use pressing tools that help create beautiful finishes.

Set Your Sleeves

Lesson 11

Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Completed collar with gray collar stand attached to geometric print wool showing topstitching along curved seam

The collar requires careful assembly but the results are worth it. Learn to construct the collar with proper grading and corner trimming, master understitching for a clean roll, build the two-piece collar stand, and attach everything to the neckline with precise alignment. Collar and hood are interchangeable between views.

Attach Your Collar

Lesson 12

Assembling & Attaching the Hood

Completed hood laid flat showing gray wool exterior with black Bemberg lining and toggle closures visible at sides

This roomy three-piece hood provides warmth and weather protection. Learn to sew curved seams with proper notching, assemble the hood lining, attach and understitch the facing for a clean edge, create the lining pleat for movement, and attach everything to the neckline with precise front alignment.

Attach Your Hood

Lesson 13

Assembling the Lining & Facings

Cascade coat shell and lining laid side by side on wood floor showing geometric print wool exterior and white Bemberg lining

Prepare for bagging your coat by assembling all lining components. Learn to create the center back pleat, attach facings to lining pieces with proper grading, construct the complete lining body and sleeves, then attach hem and sleeve facings with understitching for stability. This prep work makes the final step seamless.

Prepare the Lining

Lesson 14

Bagging Your Coat Lining

Completed Cascade Duffle Coat in geometric print wool on dress form showing collar, toggle closures, and patch pockets

The final step uses the bagged lining method that seems mysterious but works beautifully with minimal hand stitching. Learn to attach facings to shell, create the hem pleat, connect sleeve cuffs, turn everything through a sleeve opening, add thread chains at underarms, and finish all openings for a complete coat.

Finish Your Coat

Extras

  • Back view of Cascade coat with navy hood and yoke contrasting with red plaid body worn outdoors in snowy setting

    Alternative Cascade Yardages

    Want to add contrast fabric to your Cascade? This guide provides specific yardage calculations for two popular variations: a contrast yoke and hood combination, or contrasting hood lining and zipper bands. Includes which pattern pieces to cut from contrast fabric and yardage requirements based on size 18 with 45" wide fabric.

    Plan Your Contrast 
  • Hands demonstrating thread chain technique connecting white lining fabric to gray wool coat fabric at underarm seam

    Making Thread Chains

    Need more help with thread chains from Day 14? This helpful video tutorial demonstrates the technique step-by-step. Thread chains keep two fabric layers connected while allowing movement, making them perfect for securing lining to coat body at underarms without restricting wear or causing slippage.

    Learn the Technique 
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