Felix Dress Sew-Along
Master the Felix Dress through our comprehensive sewing guide! This ideal wardrobe piece takes you from summer heat to autumn cool. We'll guide you through the unique faux wrap neckline, easing techniques that reduce waistline bulk, and full lining methods that make this dress really fun to sew. Three sleeve options and generous pockets make this incredibly versatile.
Day 1
Ready-to-Wear Inspiration
Kick off your Felix Dress with ready-to-wear inspiration! We explore the wrap dress silhouettes and easy layering pieces that influenced this design. From classic colors to punchy prints and stripes, discover fabric mixing ideas for that perfect look.
Lesson 2
Selecting Your Fabrics
Master fabric selection for your Felix Dress! We break down the crucial difference between drape and weight, explore why soft fabrics with movement are essential, and guide you through self fabric and lining choices for that flowing silhouette.
Recommended Fabrics
Rayon Challis:
Similar drape to silk but easier to handle and sew, available in wide variety of colors and prints. This fabric has beautiful drape and movement, making it ideal for the Felix's flowing silhouette.
Silk Crepe de Chine & Charmeuse:
Both drape beautifully with lovely movement on the body. Double Georgette is another great silk choice. These fabrics create the flowing, swingy movement that makes the Felix special.
Rayon Blends:
Generally solid choices - the rayon addition makes fabrics less rigid than pure cotton or linen. You can see how rayon/linen and rayon/cotton blends result in much softer drape than their pure counterparts.
Cotton Batiste, Gauze & Voile:
Somewhat loosely woven fabrics that result in softer, less crisp hand that works well for this dress design. The loose weave gives them the drape the Felix requires.
Fabrics to Avoid
Essex Linen:
Too rigid for the Felix dress. This will create a tent-like silhouette rather than the intended flowing drape. Works great for patterns like the Farrow Dress but not for this design.
Cotton Lawn:
While lightweight, the crisp weave lacks the drape needed for Felix's flowing design. Great example of drape vs. weight. Lawn is light but crisp, not soft.
Coated Fabrics:
Beautiful in theory but lack the drape essential for this pattern's success. The coating prevents the fabric from having the soft, collapsing quality the Felix needs.
Lesson 3
Felix Supply List
The first step to a successful project is making sure you have everything you'll need from start to finish right at hand. This post covers all the essential supplies from fabrics and interfacing to marking tools and pressing equipment.
1. Felix Dress Pattern
You can purchase the Felix Pattern here. It's available as a downloadable PDF only but that includes both US and A0 Copy shop files as well as a print at home pattern that fits on both US Letter and A4 paper.
2. Main Fabric
We'll be talking all about fabric on Wednesday but you'll need a lighter weight fabric, think soft fabrics, for the main fabric as well as for the lining. The pattern instructions show you how to line both the bodice and skirt, but in the sew-along I'll show you how to omit the skirt lining if you'd like. For our sew-along I'll be using an Atelier Brunette rayon for the self, and lining it with this lightweight viscose batiste.
3. Fusible Interfacing
You’ll want to look for a woven fusible interfacing in approximately the same weight as the fabric you’re using - lightweight! Avoid bonded interfacings as they lack the drape necessary to produce a professional looking garment you’ll want to wear.
4. All Purpose Thread
I prefer to use standard poly thread for my garments. I like poly because I pre-treat my fabrics and I know that poly won’t shrink when laundered, keeping my seams nice and neat. Try to use high quality thread as it’s kinder to your machine and you'll get better tension right off the bat.
Lesson 4
Choosing Your Size
Learn to select the perfect size for your Felix Dress using three key measurements. We cover taking accurate bust, waist, and hip measurements, explain why bust is most important for this design, and guide you through the size chart when measurements fall between sizes.
Grab the Felix Dress Pattern
-
Felix Dress 0-18
Regular price $18.00 USDRegular priceUnit price / perSale price $18.00 USD
Lesson 5
Basic Pattern Adjustments
Felix adjustments — Part 1! Learn to make a muslin for fit testing, blend between different bust and hip sizes, and make length adjustments to bodice and skirt. We'll cover more advanced adjustments in our next pattern adjustment post.
Making a Muslin
Learn why making a test version is essential for the Felix, especially if you're new to this style. We show you how to construct a quick muslin bodice to evaluate fit at the bust point and waistline before cutting your final fabric.
Blending Between Sizes
When your measurements fall into different size ranges, you don't have to choose just one size. This technique shows you how to gradually transition from your bust size to your hip size for a customized fit.
Basic Bodice Length Adjustments
This is the easiest way to lengthen or shorten your Felix bodice while avoiding changes to the armhole. This method uses the printed lengthen/shorten lines and affects the neckband placement.
Basic Skirt Length Adjustments
Learn simple techniques for adjusting the skirt length of your Felix, including using the lengthen/shorten lines or adding/subtracting from the hem. Essential for getting the perfect dress length for your height.
Lesson 6
Advanced Pattern Adjustments
Felix adjustments — Part 2! Learn three different methods to adjust bodice length and raise the V-neckline, plus step-by-step full bust and small bust adjustments with dart manipulation for a truly customized fit.
Bodice Length Adjustment Method 1
Learn how to shorten or lengthen the bodice above the V-neckline while keeping the armhole unchanged. This method affects the neckline placement and requires adjustments to multiple pattern pieces.
Bodice Length Adjustment Method 2
Discover how to adjust bodice length through both the armhole and neckline. This method raises the armhole as well as the neckline and includes sleeve cap adjustments to maintain proper fit.
Bodice Length Adjustment Method 3
Master a combination technique that raises the V-neckline without changing the overall bodice length. This method splits the adjustment between shortening the upper bodice and lengthening the lower section.
Full & Small Bust Adjustments
Learn comprehensive bust adjustment techniques for the Felix's dartless design. Covers determining your adjustment amount, creating darts through slashing and spreading, and making corresponding changes to skirt pieces when needed.
Lesson 7
Cutting and Fusing
It's time to cut and prep your Felix! Learn to cut slippery fabrics, create the angled front piece, and apply strategic interfacing to neckbands and bias edges. Plus helpful cutting guides to check you have all pieces before moving to construction.
Lesson 8
Assembling the Bodice
Time to start sewing your Felix! Learn to assemble the neckband with proper grading and understitching, plus construct both self and lining bodices. Includes helpful tips to prevent sewing your lining backwards - a common mistake with this construction.
Lesson 9
Attaching the Neckband
Attach the neckband to your Felix bodice with this unique construction method! This non-standard technique produces a completely clean finish and might make you feel like a sewing magician. The hardest part of the dress but so worth it!
Lesson 10
Adding the Pockets
An easy day in the Felix sew-along! Learn to attach pocket pieces to both the bodice and skirt using proper seam allowances and grading techniques. This straightforward process includes edgestitching and understitching for pockets that stay put.
Lesson 11
Attaching the Skirts
Time for the skirts! Learn to ease the fuller skirt fabric into the bodice, attach both self and lining layers, and anchor those important pockets. This is the exciting moment when your Felix really starts looking like the dress it's meant to be!
Lesson 12
Sewing The Side Seams
An easy day in the Felix sew-along — just four side seams and you can try on your dress! We'll sew lining side seams first, then turn inside out to sew the self seams. Simple construction that brings your Felix together for the first fitting!
Lesson 13
Sleeveless Armhole Finishing
Time to finish the armholes for your sleeveless Felix. Learn to apply bias facing with a 1/2" seam allowance (not the usual 1/4"), then trim, grade, clip, and understitch for a clean finish. Perfect technique for smooth, flat armhole edges.
Lesson 14
Sewing the Sleeves
Time to add sleeves to your Felix! Learn to baste the sleeve cap for gathering, insert sleeves into lined armholes, and finish with clean hems. This tutorial covers both flutter and 3/4 sleeves using the same insertion method for both styles.
Lesson 15
Hemming the Dress
It’s the last day of the Felix sew-along, time to hem your dress! We use the same double-fold technique as we did for the sleeves to hem both the shell and the lining. Your Felix is finally complete!