Hemlock Tee Sew-Along

Master the Hemlock Tee and gain confidence working with knits through our comprehensive sewing guide! This boxy, relaxed tee offers three sleeve options and three hem lengths to mix and match. We'll cover fabric selection, stretch testing, cutting knits, and complete construction — with dedicated lessons for both sewing machine and serger sewists.

Lesson 1

Introduction, Fabric & Supplies

Hemlock Tee Sew-Along Day 01 video thumbnail, woman standing at wood work table in sewing studio

Meet the Hemlock Tee and learn why it's a great first project for sewing with knits. We'll cover how fabric weight affects drape and fit, how to test your fabric's stretch percentage, and which supplies — including needles and thread — you'll need to get started.

Drape vs. Stability

The Hemlock works beautifully in drapey or more stable knits — and the fabric you choose will change the look of the finished tee. Drapey fabrics like bamboo or a high-Lycra rib knit will cling and flow, while a wool blend jersey or ponte will hold the boxy shape more firmly. Think about the silhouette you're after before you shop.

Testing Stretch Percentage

When working with knits, you'll need to pay attention to your fabric's stretch percentage. We'll show you a quick way to check it before you cut, using swatches of bamboo jersey, cotton jersey, and wool ponte as examples.

Needles and Thread

The right needle and thread make a real difference in how your seams look and hold up on knits. We'll cover what to use for sewing machines versus sergers, and why matching your needle to your fabric matters more than you'd think.

Get Started

Lesson 2

Assembling the Pattern and Choosing a Size

Hemlock Tee Sew-Along Day 02 thumbnail, woman waving beside pattern planning sheet and fabric swatch

Learn how to assemble your layered PDF pattern and choose the right size for your measurements. We'll cover printing tips, taking accurate measurements, and how to blend between sizes if your bust and hip fall into different size categories.

Printing Your Layered PDF

The Hemlock is a layered pattern, which means you can choose which sizes to print. We'll walk through how layers work in Adobe Acrobat, plus a quick test page check to make sure your pattern prints at the correct scale.

Choosing Your Size

The Hemlock is designed with approximately 10 inches of ease at the bust, depending on your size range, which can feel unfamiliar if you're used to fitted garments. We'll cover how to pick your size off the chart and what to expect from the finished fit.

Blending Between Sizes

If your measurements span more than one size, blending gets you a better fit than sizing up or down across the board. We'll show you the tools and technique for a smooth transition between sizes.

Assemble Your Pattern

Lesson 3

Cutting Your Fabric

Hemlock Tee Sew-Along Day 03 thumbnail, woman holding folded wool knit fabric over cutting mat

Ready to cut your knit fabric? This lesson covers pre-treating your yardage, understanding the right and wrong side of jersey, and laying out your fabric to avoid off-grain cuts. We'll also make the case for tracing and removing your pattern pieces before cutting, with both scissors and rotary cutter demonstrated.

Start Cutting

Grab the Hemlock Tee Pattern

Lesson 4

Assembling with a Sewing Machine

Hemlock Tee Sew-Along Day 04 thumbnail, woman standing at wood table for sewing machine lesson

Time to sew! This lesson walks through the full sewing machine assembly of the Hemlock Tee, from choosing the right stretch stitch and presser foot to sewing the shoulder and side seams, attaching the neckband, and hemming the body and sleeves. Serger users can skip ahead to Lesson 5.

Choosing a Stitch

A standard straight stitch won't hold up on knits, so you'll need a stitch with some give. We'll walk through a few stretch stitch options most machines have built in, and how to figure out which one works best for your fabric.

Presser Foot Tips

Your presser foot settings can make a real difference in how smoothly knit fabric feeds through your machine. We'll cover a few adjustments worth knowing, including how a walking foot or dual feed function can help.

Hemming

There's more than one way to get a clean, professional-looking hem on a knit garment. We'll show you the method we used for our Hemlock, plus an option for approximating a coverstitch look if that's a finish you love.

Start Sewing

Lesson 5

Assembling with a Serger

Hemlock Tee Sew-Along Day 05 thumbnail, woman standing beside Bernina serger with thread cones

Serger users, this one's for you! Learn what a serger does and how it differs from a sewing machine, then follow along as we sew the shoulder seams, side seams, and neckband. We'll also cover a few hem finishing options for a professional-looking result.

Differential Feed

Sergers can produce wavy or stretched-out seams on knits if your differential feed isn't set right. We'll show you what differential feed does and how to adjust it for your fabric.

Hemming

There's more than one way to get a clean, professional-looking hem on a knit garment. We'll walk through a few finishing options, including how to approximate a coverstitch look if that's a finish you love.

Start Serging