Hand Sewing Q&A: Needles, Left-Handed Tips & More

The response to our hand sewing series has been absolutely wonderful and I’ve really enjoyed putting it together! I've been reading through all your comments and questions – from left-handed modifications to needle selection mysteries.

You've asked some really thoughtful questions, so today I'm diving into the most common questions that came up during our slip stitch, whip stitch, and catch stitch tutorials.

What needles and thread should I actually use?

This was hands-down the most practical question I received. Here's what I personally use:

For most hand sewing: A size 9 or 10 sharps needle with all-purpose thread. Sharps have an easy to handle medium length and, as the name implies, a sharp point that works for nearly everything we covered in the series.

For heavier fabrics: Size 8 sharps (slightly larger) or even a size 7 if you're working with something really substantial like canvas or heavy denim.

Thread-wise: Regular all-purpose polyester thread works beautifully for these techniques. I don't get fancy here – the same thread you use in your sewing machine is perfect for hand sewing too.

One exception: If you're doing a lot of hand hemming on delicate fabrics, silk thread can be really nice because it glides through fabric so smoothly. Honestly though? All-purpose thread will serve you well 99% of the time.

I'm left-handed – can I actually follow these tutorials?

Yes, and thank you for speaking up about this. Based on your comments, I created left-handed versions of each tutorial by flipping the videos. You can find them in our Instagram Stories highlights under "Left-Handed Tutorials" and in our reels tab.

Each of these demos were previewed by my left-handed mom who’s been sewing for more years than I'm sure she’d like me to publish here. I’ll have to show you all her three-piece Pendleton wool suit from the 70’s sometime!

But beyond just flipped videos, here's what I've learned helps left-handed sewers:

Work in the direction that feels natural to you. Aside from the catch stitch I typically work right to left. However if the opposite feels better, or is easier with the piece you’re sewing, go with it. The stitches work the same way no matter the direction they're made.

On that topic, hold your work however is comfortable. Don't try to mirror exactly what you see in right-handed demos – adapt your hand positions to what works for your dominant hand. This goes for right handed sewing too. There are many ways to hold a pencil and still write and the same goes for hand sewing.

What's meant by the term 'hemming stitch'?

This terminology question came up several times over the three weeks. Technically, any stitch used to secure a hem is a "hemming stitch." That includes slip stitch, catch stitch, blind hem stitch, a simple running stitch, and more.

But here's where it gets more interesting, or confusing, depending on how you look at it. When I’ve seen patterns or tutorials mention using a "hemming stitch" without being specific, I've found they usually mean the slip stitch. I think it's become somewhat of the default because it's nearly invisible from the right side. At the same time I’ve heard all three of the stitches we covered, and plenty we haven't yet, all referred to as “the hemming stitch.” With that in mind here’s a refresher:

Slip stitch: Best for lightweight to medium fabrics, completely invisible when done well

Whip stitch: Great for when you want extra security and don't mind tiny stitches showing

Catch stitch: Perfect for knits and heavier fabrics, allows for stretch and movement

The "right" hemming stitch is whatever works best for you, your fabric, and the finished look you're going for.

I've already got a list of hand sewing tips, tricks, and techniques to share in the coming months to continue this series, but I'd love to know if there's anything you'd like to know or learn that I may not have thought of. Let me know in the comments below!