Removing the Austin Dress Side Seam Button Bands

If you've been eyeing the Austin Dress but dreading the side seam button bands, this tutorial is for you. I'll walk you through simple pattern alterations to remove the button bands entirely, plus I’ve included updated sewing instructions for both views with standard side seams.

When I originally created the Austin pattern the design heavily centered around the side seam button band detail, which I still love and think is so fun. What I didn’t think about was how many people hate putting in buttonholes with the fire of a thousand suns. I probably should have included a version of both Views A and B without buttons but since I don’t care about doing buttons and buttonholes, that thought never crossed my mind. Sometimes when designing it’s hard to remember that not everyone has the same preferences, likes, and dislikes as you, and, as they say, hindsight is 20/20. 

I’d like to convince you to learn to love buttons and buttonholes because I think that sewing is low stakes and there’s no reason to be afraid or nervous about a technique, but if you’re one of those people who never want to see a buttonhole again, this tutorial is for you.

I’ll start by explaining the very simple pattern modifications you’ll need to do to omit the button bands, and then I’ll give you new instructions on how to sew this mod.

Austin Dress Pattern Alterations: Removing the Side Seam Button Bands

The pattern alterations for the Austin Dress to sew up without button bands are very simple. You’re going to start by removing the button bands from the side edge of the front and back bodices and the side edges of whichever skirt pieces you’ll be using, then adjusting the armhole binding to match the new pattern construction. Here are the step-by-step instructions:

1. Find your size according to the size chart included with your pattern. This alteration will not affect the finished size of the garment and works for both the 0–18 and 14–32 versions of the pattern.

2. Locate the sides of the Bodice Front (Piece 1) and Bodice Back (Piece 2). Remove 1 ⅝” from the sides of each piece, parallel to the side edge. This will leave you with a ½” seam allowance to sew the side seams.

3. Repeat this step for either side of the skirt you’ve decided to use for your dress. For View A this would be View A Skirt Front (Piece 3) and View A Skirt Back (Piece 4). For View B this would be View B Skirt Front (Piece 5) and View B Skirt Back (Piece 6).

4. Add ½” to one end of the Armhole Binding (Piece 9). This will be one of the short ends of the binding pattern piece.

Austin Dress Sewing Instructions: Sewing Views A & B Without Button Bands

Since we’ve removed the button bands from the dress, the sewing instructions will need to change. The sewing instructions below note the changes between the original instructions and the updates needed for this pattern alteration. Make sure you have both the updated and original instructions handy when sewing up your buttonless Austin. We also have a full video sew-along on the original construction if you prefer to follow along that way.

All Views: Bodice Assembly

1. Skip step 1 in the original instruction booklet
2. Follow the instructions for steps 2–12

View A: Skirt Assembly

1. Follow steps 13–14
2. Skip Steps 15-16

View B: Skirt Assembly

1. Follow steps 17-20
2. Repeat step 20 for the back
3. Skip steps 21-23

All Views: New Side Seams

1. With right sides together, align the side seams of the front and back bodice. Sew and finish seams as desired.
2. With right sides together, align the side seams of the front and back skirt. Sew and finish side seams as desired.

View A: Attaching the View A Skirt

1. Align the waistlines of the bodice and skirt with right sides together, matching center front, center back, and side seams. Sew, finish seam as desired, and press towards the bodice.
2. Edgestitch along the waistline seam, on the bodice, to anchor the waistline seam allowance in place.

View B: Attaching the View B Skirt

1. Working in two halves, place 2 lines of basting stitches along the waistline of the skirt at ⅜” and ⅝” from the cut edge, running from side seam to side seam at the front, leaving thread tails at either end. Repeat for the back of the skirt.
2. Align the waists of the bodice and skirt, with right sides together, matching center front, center back, and side seams.
3. Pull the thread tails to gather the skirt into the bodice and pin in place. Sew, remove basting threads, and finish seam allowance, and press towards the bodice.
4. Edgestitch along the waistline seam, on the bodice, to anchor the waistline seam allowance in place.

All Views: Finishing the Armholes

1. Sew the two ends of each armhole bias strip together using a ¼” seam allowance, to create two circular strips. Press seam allowances open.
2. Pin the binding strips to the armholes, with right sides together, and sew around the opening using a ¼” seam allowance.
3. Follow steps 7, 8, and 10 to finish the binding.

View A: Hemming the View A Skirt

1. To hem the skirt, press the hem edge up ¼”, then ¼” again, then stitch down the free folded edge.

View B: Hemming the View B Skirt

1. To hem the skirt, press the hem edge up ¼”, then press up 2 ½”, and stitch down the free folded edge.

That’s it for creating the Austin without button bands down the side seams. It’s a very small, easy to do pattern modification and the sewing instructions are very easy as well, but they do significantly change the look of the garment.

You can pick up the Austin Dress pattern in the shop and head over to the sew-along guide for step-by-step video tutorials on the original construction. Please note that this modification isn't covered in the sew-along, only the pattern as originally written.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and if you make your own version make sure to tag me on Instagram if you post @grainlinestudio! I always love seeing what people do with my patterns!