We’ve been steadily working on our Tamarack Society jackets in-between our other work so I’m here today to show off our progress so far!
I spent most of last week getting ready for Camp Workroom Social so I didn’t have a ton of time to work on my Tamarack but I did sew up my pattern in this pre-quilted fabric we had left over from developing the Tamarack pattern a few years ago. I wanted to double check that it worked in a quilted fabric since there’s quite a bit of quilting and I changed the pattern substantially. I’m really happy with how this worked so I’m going to cut my fabric this weekend! I also plan to test out the double welt pockets on this sample before I go to town on my actual garment since it’s been a bit since I installed a pocket with a double welt.
Lexi has been doing a lot more Tamarack sewing and is cruising right along! Her body is quilted and assembled, her welt pockets are in, and she’s bound the edges of the body. I cannot wait to see this with the sleeves in! Lexi also has something really cool planned for the sides of the jacket but I’ll wait to tell you more until she’s to that part.
How are your Tamarack Society jackets going? I’ll be catching up on the hashtag this weekend since I had no internet at camp. I’m so excited by what I’ve seen so far though, you guys are killing it!
Today I wanted to share a few in progress pics from the Tamarack Society Instagram hashtag! You all have so many awesome ideas and I find it super inspiring. I’ve just made a quilted muslin of mine and will hopefully be cutting the actual fabric this week. If you haven’t joined in yet but have been thinking about it there’s plenty of time to get started. I’ll likely be working on mine till mid-November and there’s no hard finish date.
Hi everyone! It’s time for our week 1 Tamarack Society check-in! Today I’m going to show you what Lexi and I have been up to on our Tamaracks, and I’d love to hear how yours are going in the comments. I’ve been seeing so many awesome plans and progress photos on Instagram, you all are making me even more excited about finishing mine!
Lets start with Lexi’s Tamarack:
Lexi has made a few Tamaracks for work, but none for herself yet! For hers she’s starting with a vintage inspired fabric and lengthening the pattern by 10″ to make a longer version of the original jacket. She’s deep in the quilting phase at this point as you may have seen in our last Tamarack post about quilting ideas or on Instagram yesterday.
You can see how amazing her quilting is looking here. She’s just about finished and ready to put the welts in which she’s going to do in the solid lining color. I’m so into how Lexi’s jacket is turning out and it’s really fun to watch the quilting come to life!
This is my progress so far, I’ve altered the pattern to be slightly more like the silhouette of the Isabel Marant coat I’m using as my inspiration. The original coat has a unique underarm that I’m skipping, but you can see what I mean here.
After I posted the muslin in our Instagram stories lot of you have asked what pattern adjustments I did to get to this silhouette. As you can see above, I first lengthened the body of the pattern by 10″ just as Lexi did to hers. I then split the body along the low waist and spread the top and bottom pieces to create a bit of a cocoon shape. Next I increased the center front overlap to create more of a double breasted situation and dropped the front neck slightly. The shoulders on the Tamarack are already slightly dropped so I increased that by about an inch. My final step was to widen the sleeve by 1.5″ which I did by adding to the cuff edge and extending that straight up to blend with the bicep area of the sleeve.
This jacket has a TON of quilting so I’m debating making it up in this pre-quilted fabric left over from when we were originally developing the Tamarack pattern. I’d hate to get all that quilting done and wish I’d adjusted something slightly! We’ll see how I’m feeling this weekend about coming into work, that’ll be the deciding factor on whether or not I sew up a tester or just dive into the real thing!
So that’s it for our first week check in, how are your Tamarack Jackets going?
Today we’re going to talk about quilting patterns on our Tamarack Jackets! This is, I think, one of the most fun parts of making a Tamarack because there are so many options to choose from, the possibilities are literally endless! Before we get too carried away though I want to share a few tips you’ll want to think about when deciding on a pattern for your quilting. All of these images are pulled from our Tamarack Pinterest board.
Tips for Quilting your Tamarack
- Unless you have experience using a free motion foot or a longarm machine, straight lines are going to be the easiest option. Turning circles on a regular machine can be difficult with one layer of fabric and adding the batting won’t make it easier.
- If you do want to do a circular pattern, the larger the curves the easier it will be!
- You don’t have to use a machine, try hand quilting or sashiko for a really custom look.
- Practice quilting on a scrap quilt sandwich before you attack your actual garment. You may need to adjust your machine settings and tearing it out on your jacket is not fun, believe me.
- Don’t be afraid to experiment a bit or step outside your comfort zone. Try a more intricate pattern on a solid color, or use a contrasting color on a print! This is a great time to have fun!
We also have a post from the original sew-along called Quilting Tips for the Tamarack Jacket if you need more assistance with your quilting. I highly recommend checking it out! I put together a few quilting ideas if you’re looking for inspiration. Any of these would make a great starting point or finished quilting pattern. I had to stop myself at 12 because I was having too much fun. I’ve also popped a blank jacket in below for you to print out and use as a template to experiment with your own quilting ideas.
These 6 designs are relatively simple and would look great on a solid or print. I’ve used the top right and the bottom left for Tamarack samples in the past so you can see what those look like quilted in our product photos here. The less pivoting you do, the easier the quilting will be, and all of these are simply straight lines but they definitely create an impact!
These 6 patterns take slightly more planning than the first 6, but that doesn’t mean they’re hard! There’s a bit of pivoting which I would recommend practicing on a scrap quilt sandwich before you dive in, but it’s really all very similar to sewing a garment – just with more fluffiness.
If you’re using a print, especially a large scale one like Lexi is using here, you can also quilt around the motif. On the front it doesn’t distract from the print while on the inside you can really see all the quilting shine. I think this is a super cool option if your fabric is accommodating!
If you’d like to download the design page, just click the image above and your browser should open the file. From there you can download or print, then start designing.
Don’t forget to tag us on Instagram @grainlinestudio and use the hashtags #tamarackjacket and #tamaracksociety!
I’m so excited about how many of you are excited about this sew-along! So many beautiful Tamarack Jackets are about to be born and I cannot wait. I’m sure you can’t either so our first Tamarack Society post is jam packed full of info to get you started gathering your supplies, calculating your yardage if you’re making changes to the length of the pattern, as well as a round up of our previous Tamarack related blog posts. Let’s dive in!
I wanted to start out with the general supplies you’ll need in order to work smoothly through your Tamarack Jacket. There are quite a few supplies that are standard when making quilts, but not so much garments so by running through them all here you can easily double check that you have everything you need on hand before you get started!
2. Fabric: You have a few options for your fabric choices, explained below. Determine the proper yardage to use with your size with the chart on the pattern.
- Using the same fabric for the shell and lining: follow the Single Layer yardage requirements.
- Using different fabrics for the shell and lining: follow the pre-quilted requirements and order that quantity of each fabric. We’re using two Carolyn Friedlander prints from Robert Kaufman for ours.
- Using pre-quilted fabric: follow the pre-quilted requirements.
3. High quality quilt batting: My favorite battings are made by Quilter’s Dream. I use the Quilter’s Dream Cotton Select for my cotton jackets. If you’re into the idea of wool, I’ve used this one for our wool version. You want to make sure the batting is high quality so that it doesn’t shrink in the wash and the fibers stay together and don’t clump into a lumpy mess over the life of your coat. High quality battings also allow you to quilt further apart and get more creative than the lower quality alternatives. You’ll need a twin size if you’re buying by the package, or if your local shop has it by the yard, you can use the pre-quilted yardage quantity for your size.
4. Thread: I use regular poly thread for this. Typically when quilting you want to use cotton because you want the fabric to be stronger than the thread. Since I pre-wash my fabrics and the batting won’t shrink I want to make sure my thread stays as I’ve put it as well and doesn’t shrink and wrinkle the stitching lines. It’s a great look on quilts, but I don’t totally love it on my clothes.
5. Snaps: I used Dritz Heavy Duty 5/8″ snaps for my Tamarack sample. They come in multiple colors (brass, silver, black and more) and they’re relatively easy to set provided you have the tool necessary. Some packs come with the setting tool and some don’t so make sure you double check if you don’t already have one. If you just need the setting tool, you can grab one here. Make sure the snaps you’re purchasing look like these, the snaps with the prongs won’t hold through this many layers of fabric.
6. Marking Chalk: You’ll need chalk or your favorite removable marking pen to both trace out your pattern as well as trace your quilting lines onto your pattern. This is my favorite chalk tracing pen but use whatever works for you! Make sure you don’t use a Frixion pen to trace your quilting lines. The markings disappear with heat but are known to come back in cool weather…aka when you’re wearing your coat!
7. Pins: You’ll need 2 kinds of pins.
- Quilter’s pins: These are thinner and longer than regular dressmakers pins. You’ll be pinning through a TON of fabric so you’ll need something thin and flexible enough to get the job done. I love these Clover Flower Head Pins because they’re extra long and thin enough, but not too thin that they bend out of shape and end in the garbage with one use. I’ve had my box for years and they’re still going strong.
- Safety pins: These come in handy while quilting your fabric, you’ll use them to pin baste your quilt sandwich in place so things don’t slip while you’re quilting. You can use whatever regular straight safety pins you have laying around, or if you’re into sewing supplies or think you’ll be doing a lot of quilting you can purchase quilter’s safety pins. These are slightly curved and are much easier to take in and out of the fabric.
8. Hand Stitching Needles: We recommend 2 kinds of hand sewing needles, a longer quilter’s basting needle to put in the initial basting lines that you’ll use to mark your quilting lines off of and mark your welt pockets, and a regular hand sewing needle to slip stitch the binding in place.
9. Bias Tape Maker: If you’re making your own bias tape you might want to consider a bias tape maker. These are super easy to use and come in a variety of widths. You just pull your bias strip through it while ironing the fabric as it comes out the other side. For the Tamarack you’ll need a 1″ bias tape maker which will result in the 1/2″ double fold tape you need.
10.Walking Foot: This is going to be a lifesaver for this project, I promise. A walking foot will reduces the tendency of the top layer of fabric to move through the machine at a slightly slower rate, and ensures that your fabric doesn’t slip around and pucker or become misaligned.
11. Regular Machine Foot: There are parts of the welt pockets that are slightly difficult to get accurately sewn with the bulk of the walking foot, so your regular machine foot comes in handy for that. I love my 1/4″ foot (which BERNINA calls the Patchwork Foot) because of the accuracy it provides but I recommend using whatever you’re used to.
12. Scissors: I’m not much of a rotary person, but the scissors I find most useful for almost every project I make are my Gingher bent handle shears, embroidery scissors, and thread snips. I couldn’t sew without them.
13. Rulers: For this project I use all three of the above measuring tools. My trusty measuring tape for laying out my pattern pieces on grain, and the clear plastic rulers for marking my quilting lines.
14. Wonder Clips: I forgot to add Wonder Clips to the top supply photo but I can’t bind a quilt or a Tamarack Jacket without them! They’re small spring loaded clips that hold your binding in place, the benefit being that you won’t be holding a handful of fabric with pins stabbing you as you sew the back of your binding in place. Wonder pins are also great for fabrics you don’t want to puncture like leather and vinyl.
Lengthened Jacket Yardage
If you’re planning on changing the length of your jacket I’ve got an easy way to estimate the yardage of your pattern, shown below. For my jacket I think I’ll be adding around 10″ to the length so I’ll be using that as the example here.
You can see above the original layout of the pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions. I’ve marked the 4 pattern pieces that need to be lengthened with +10 as a visual of how much extra fabric I’ll need. Since the front and back pieces are cut next to each other in this layout you’ll only need to add 20″ of extra fabric, rather than 40″.
Above you can see what the pattern pieces look like lengthened. For this layout I originally needed 4 yards of fabric. If I add the 20″ to account for the lengthened pattern pieces that takes me to 4 5/8 yards of fabric. So that’s my new yardage! If you’re shortening your pattern you can do the same math but in reverse, subtracting the amount you’re shortening the pattern, or you can just use the original yardage.
Tamarack Sew-Along Resources
If you want to get a jump start or check out any sew-along posts from the official sew-along a few years ago I’ve rounded up every informational Tamarack post we’ve done so far and posted a link to them below.
Making & Applying Bias Binding
So that’s that for today! My fabric has arrived and I’m going to be getting busy with my pattern alterations this week. I’ll be sure to update my Instagram stories while I work and will post again here when I get the changes all squared away. Don’t forget to use the tag #tamaracksociety on your Instagram posts and tag us @grainlinestudio so we can see what you’re up to!
How are your plans coming along? Have you ordered fabric or decided if you’re making the pattern as is or altering it? Fill me in!
Last week I posted an image on Instagram of a jacket I wanted to use as inspiration for a long Tamarack Jacket and you guys went wild. So many of you wanted to make Tamaracks with me that I’m officially announcing the Tamarack Society Sew-Along! This won’t be a standard sew-along since that already exists here, but rather a group of us sewing either Tamaracks as drafted, or altered at the same time. I’m hoping we can offer each other encouragement, support, and lots of fun – hence the word society! This week I’ll be talking about what my plans are, as well as sharing a list of supplies you’ll need to create your own, including an easy way to estimate yardage if you’re lengthening your jacket also.
I’ve also made a discount code for the event, for the next week you can use TAMARACKSOCIETY at checkout to receive 15% off* the printed or PDF pattern! I think we’ll also use the hashtag #tamaracksociety on Instagram so we can keep up with each other’s progress. Now is the perfect time to get going on a jacket like this, it looks like it takes a while but it’s really pretty quick and you’ll be able to wear it a ton before the really cold weather sets in!
Now to talk about my plans for the sew-along! I’ll be referencing the jacket to the right above for my long Tamarack. I absolutely love the quilting pattern on this one as well as the grey/black combo, though it’ll definitely be a dog hair magnet. Oh well! I’ve outlined my main pattern adjustments above and they’re nothing too difficult. I think the double welts will probably be the most intensive part of that list, but still not a big deal.
As for the fabric, I’m going to use quilting cotton for mine and I think I’m not going to pre-wash it. That way it will shrink up a bit and puff out like the inspiration jacket fabric does and also how quilts do! Because of that I’ll likely go up one size from my measurements, so I’ll be making a 8 bust/10 hip rather than a 6 bust/8 hip. I’m undecided on whether I’ll pair the black binding with Gotham or Charcoal and I’m also debating a black and white gingham lining. The only thing I worry about with the gingham is not being able to see the awesome stitching patterns from the inside of the coat, but also, does that matter? It’s the inside of the coat!
So that’s what I’m thinking for my Tamarack Society Sew-Along jacket! I’m going to draft out my changes and I’ll be back Wednesday with tools, supplies, and how to calculate your new yardage if you’re lengthening your jacket. In the meantime let me know what you’re thinking, or upload a photo of your ideas & inspiration to Instagram and tag @grainlinestudio or use the hashtag #tamaracksociety so that I can see what you’re planning!!
* Discount is for retail customers only and does not apply to wholesale orders. Discount does not apply to shipping costs and must be applied at checkout prior to payment. Offer ends Sunday, September 30th at 11:59 CDT.
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