• Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves

    Today we’ll be setting the sleeves of the view B Uniform Tunic. Much like the previous armhole facing post you can use the sleeves in view A or view B with no adjustments, it’s all up to your personal preference. With that let’s get started!

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    To begin lay out both sleeves and fold the side seams together with the right sides facing. This way you can make sure that you have two opposite sleeves.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Sew the underarm seams using the standard ½” seam allowance and finish your seam allowance as desired. In this sample we serged ours together.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Press the seam allowance towards the back of the sleeve.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Using a large basting stitch, place two lines of stitching between the two armhole notches. Place one line 3/8″ from the cut edge and the second 5/8″ from the cut edges. Be sure to leave thread tails.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Place the sleeve right side out inside of the bodice which should be turned wrong side out. Align the underarm seams, notches, and the shoulder seam with the top shoulder notch on the sleeve. Gather the sleeve caps if needed to fit into the armhole. Pin in place.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Stitch around the armhole with your ½” seam allowance and finish your seam as desired. You can give a light press to the seam if you’d like (press the seam allowance towards the armhole) though you don’t need to. On this sample I just gave the linen a bit of a finger press.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Repeat these steps for the other side of the garment.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    To hem, fold the raw edge up ¼” and press, then ¼” again and press.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    Stitch the folded fabric in place to hem the sleeves.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

    That’s it for setting your sleeves! As I mentioned at the beginning of the post you can use either bodice with sleeves for the ultimate mix and match garment. Next up we’ll finish the neckline of our tunics and you’ll be wearing it in no time!

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  • Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding

    Today we’ll be discussing how to apply bias facings to the armholes of your Uniform Tunic. I’ll be showing this technique on view A since that’s what we’ve illustrated in the book, but the bias facing pattern pieces can be applied to either view without trouble.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding

    To begin, sew each armhole strip into a circle by matching the short edges with right sides facing and stitching along the seam line using a ¼” seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Pin the bias facing to the armhole with the right sides facing.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Stitch around the armhole using a ¼” seam allowance.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Grade the seam allowance by cutting the allowance of the bias facing in half. Then clip around the armhole to, but not through, the stitching line every ½ – ¾”.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Press both the seam allowance and bias facing away from the bodice. Understitch by stitching a line approximately 1/8″ from the seam line through both the bias facing and seam allowances.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Press both the seam allowance and bias facing away from the bodice. Understitch by stitching a line approximately 1/8″ from the seam line through both the bias facing and seam allowances.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Fold the raw edge under around the entire armhole to create the finished edge of the bias facing.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

    Stitch along the edge you just folded under at approxmiately 1/8″ to finish the bias facing and anchor it in place. Give your armhole a press and repeat for the other side.

    If you need further assistance with your bias facing, check out our super in-depth tutorial here on getting flat bias facings. The tutorial shows a neckline but they’re done in the same manner as a facing.

    Next up sleeves, we’re almost finished!

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  • Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B

    Today we’re going to talk about sewing up the skirt for view B. While this skirt doesn’t have pockets as written you can add them if you like.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    To begin, take the front skirt and fold the raw edge of the sides over ¼” and press, then fold that edge over ¼” again and press.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Edgestitch along the folded edge to anchor the hem.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Repeat these steps for the other side of the front skirt.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Fold up the hem of the skirt ¼” twice and press. Edgestitch the hem in place, then repeat these steps for the back skirt.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Now we’ll attach the skirt to the bodice. Turn your bodice right side out and place the front skirt right side down on top of it, aligning the raw edges and matching the notches. Sew across the skirt at approximately ¼” to anchor it in place before we attach the back skirt and sew all the way around.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Align the back skirt to the back bodice again with right sides facing. Stitch around the entire seam using the standard ½” seam allowance.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Finish your seam allowance as desired, we serged ours.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    Press the skirt down, away from the bodice. The seam allowance will naturally want to stay pointing towards the bodice so don’t try to press it down, just leave it as is.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    You can optionally stitch around the waistline seam through the seam allowance and bodice to anchor the seam allowance in place. We stitched ours ¼” from the seam line.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View B | Grainline Studio

    That’s it for attaching the view B skirt! Up next we’ll bind our armholes on view A, though you can easily use this method for view B as well.

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  • Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Today we’ll be assembling and attaching the view A skirt. To begin, turn your bodice right side out and lay your pockets along the hem matching the notches. The right sides of the pocket pieces will be facing down. Pin in place.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Stitch across the pockets using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Grade the seam allowance of the pocket by trimming it in half and press the pockets down. Edgestitch along the pocket side of the seam through the pocket, seam allowances, and bodice.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Place the front and back skirt together with the right sides facing each other. Align the side seams and sew them together. Finish your seam allowance as desired, serged in our case!

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Press the seams towards the back of the skirt.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Align the remaining two pocket pieces as you did for the top. Turn the skirt right side out and place the right side of the pocket facing down towards the skirt. Match the notches and pin in place.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Stitch the pockets in place using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Grade the seam allowance of the pocket by trimming it in half and press the pockets up, away from the skirt. Edgestitch along the pocket side of the seam through the pocket, seam allowances, and skirt.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Keep the bodice right side out and turn the skirt inside out. Place the bodice inside of the skirt, the right sides of both pieces will be facing each other. Pin around the raw edges of the waistline seam and pocket edges.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Sew around the waistline seam pivoting at the pockets using the normal ½” seam allowance.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Finish your seam allowance as desired, we serged around ours as you can see here.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Skirt View A | Grainline Studio

    Press the skirt and seam allowance away from the bodice. That’s it for this step! Next we’ll be assembling and attaching the view B skirt.

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  • A Quick Shipping Update

    Shipping Update | Grainline Studio

    Just a quick heads up to you all that we’re heading to Australia this week to take part in the Soul Craft Festival! As such, all orders placed between June 4 at noon CST and June 15th will ship on Monday, June 18th.

    If you’re in Australia you can find more info about the festival here. My masterclasses are sold out but there are day tickets available which lets you shop the marketplace and attend any of the many talks going on over the weekend. I’ll be talking about how to use your measurements to reduce muslins and improve fit as well as about the story of Grainline. You can view the full talk schedule here.  I believe there are still a few excellent masterclass tickets available as well, you can check that list here.

    See you soon AU!

  • Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B

    Today it’s time to start assembling our Uniform Tunics! I’ll be showing the construction on View A but both views follow the same set of steps regardless of the neckline you choose. So let’s dive in!

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio
    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    To begin, take your bodice front and fold the two dart legs together with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Press a fold from the dart leg notches to the dart point you marked on your pattern while cutting.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    Stitch a straight line from the dart leg notch to the dart point. You can end your stitching at the dart point a few ways. I usually just backtack a few stitches but you can also leave thread tails and tie a knot. Whatever method you choose is just fine.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    Fold the dart take-up (this is the excess material you folded and stitched to make your dart) towards the hem. Since this is a French dart there is more fabric folded down so I like to stitch it in place within the seam allowance to keep it from shifting when you sew your side seams.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    Repeat these steps for the other dart. You should now have both darts sewn, pressed towards the waist, and anchored to the side seams.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    With the right sides of the front and back bodice facing each other (wrong sides out!) align the side and shoulder seams.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    Finish your side seams as desired treating the two seam allowance layers as one. You can try pinking shears, a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine, or a serger if you have one.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    You can see here that I serged my edges using a 3-thread serger stitch.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    Press all the seam allowances towards the back of the bodice.

    Uniform Sew-Along: Bodice Views A & B | Grainline Studio

    That’s it for your bodices! Next up we’ll be assembling the View A pockets & skirt. If you’re on Instagram don’t forget to share your progress with us using the hashtags #uniformtunic and #uniformmakealong and if you have questions just let me know in the comments below!

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