Yates Sew-Along: Gathering Supplies
Alright, supplies time! Below is a complete list of everything we used to create our Yates Coat samples. If you have any questions let me know in the comments below!
1. Yates Pattern: You can find the pattern here.
2. Coating Fabric: If you need help selecting your fabric, check out our previous post all about selecting the best fabric for your Yates. I’ll be using a dusty rose wool/cashmere blend coating from Mood.
3. Lining Fabric: We highly recommend using rayon Bemberg lining if you want a typical thin lining. Bemberg is breathable, is much easier to work with than its poly counterparts, and lasts longer than a silk lining. If you want something thicker try Kasha lining which is backed with cotton flannel. We’re using this Ivory Kasha from Vogue Fabrics for ours.
4. Fusible Interfacing: You’ll want to choose an interfacing that reflects the properties of the outer fabric you’ve chosen. A mid-weight woven interfacing would be a great choice for this project. Avoid bonded interfacings as they lack the drape necessary to produce a professional looking garment you’ll want to wear.
6. Thread: I prefer to use standard poly thread for my garments. I like poly because I pre-treat my fabrics and I know that poly won’t shrink when laundered, keeping my seams nice and neat. Try to use high quality thread as it’s kinder to your machine.
7. Marking Chalk: You’ll need chalk or your favorite removable marking pen to both trace out your pattern as well as trace your quilting lines onto your pattern. This is my favorite chalk tracing pen, but use whatever works for you!
8. Scissors: I’m not much of a rotary person, but the scissors I find most useful for almost every project I make are my Gingher bent handle shears, embroidery scissors, and thread snips. I couldn’t sew without them.
9. Pins: Whatever pins you usually use should be just fine for this, though I would avoid anything too thick, especially with your lining fabric. We like to use these Clover Glass Head Pins are what we like to use for our coats. They’re strong, thin, very sharp, and slightly longer than standard pins which can be nice when you’re pinning through a lot of fabric. The glass head is a great touch in case they get too close to your iron as well.
10. Tape Measure: You’ll need a tape measure to take your measurements as well as lay out your pattern pieces for cutting.
11. Regular Machine Foot: I love my 1/4″ foot (which BERNINA calls the Patchwork Foot) because of the accuracy it provides but I recommend using whatever you’re used to.
12. Point Turner or Bone Folder: These will be helpful in forming your collar and lapel points as well as pushing out the lower corners of the coat. I prefer using a bone folder since it’s sharp enough to do a great job but you never run the risk of puncturing your fabric or pushing through your stitching line.
13. Press Cloth: A press cloth is indispensable for this project! Wool coating has a tendency for the pile to collapse while pressing leaving a visible iron line on your fabric. I prefer to make a press cloth out of a piece of coating scrap, I find the two piles together usually prevent any visible disruptions in the fabric. We’ve also been known to use satin face organza for this purpose as well.
14. Tailor’s Ham & Sleeve Roll: I highly recommend having a tailor’s ham and sleeve roll handy for this project. Not only will it help you with contoured pressing and the two-piece sleeve, but the wool side of these tools is meant for pressing wool. It absorbs the steam from your iron and helps to set your press. I have this ham and sleeve roll by Dritz.
15. Hand Sewing Needles: You’ll need this to sew on your snaps and close up the small gap left in the coat lining so whatever you have on hand should be just fine.
16. Optional — Walking Foot: We didn’t find that we needed a walking foot for our coats but if your machine seems to be having trouble feeding your wool through, a walking foot is a good option to help it along.
17. Optional — Clapper: Not necessary at all, I typically use my hand or forearm for this purpose, but if your wool is having a hard time holding a press, try using a clapper! The clapper we have at work also has a point presser attached which is great for lapels and collars alike.
18. Optional — Matching thin fabric to cover snaps: We covered our snaps with a matching silk crepe de chine fabric so that they’d blend in with our fabric. We’ll show you how to do this during the sew-along. It’s not necessary but if you’d like to cover your snaps you’ll need a scrap of thin fabric that matches your coating.
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