Cortland Sew-Along Supplies

Today I’ll be walking you through all of the supplies you’ll need to follow along with our sew-along and create your Cortland Trench! Although we’ll cover the supplies as part of the first video in the sew-along I know a lot of you appreciate having a look at the complete list ahead of time. Most of these items you should have already, but if not, now’s the time to stock up!

1. Cortland Pattern: The Cortland is available in both downloadable PDF and pre-printed paper pattern formats. You can find the pattern here in sizes 0-18 and here in sizes 14-30. We also have links at the bottom of this post.
   
   
2. Fabric
   Main Fabric: For the Cortland we recommend lightweight coating or medium-weight fabrics such as cotton or tencel twill. Gabardine, or linen. Make sure your fabric has some drape to allow the swing shape of the coat to hang properly. We recommend fabric weights between 5 – 8 oz. We have a blog post all about our fabric selections here so you can read more.
   Pocket Lining: lightweight cotton fabrics such as chambray, lawn or pocketing are perfect for your pocket lining. This is a great way to use up scraps from larger projects too!
   Interfacing: woven or tricot interfacing in a similar, or slightly lighter, weight as your main fabric. You want to add a touch of stability so that your pockets and collar stand up to wear, but avoid anything overly stiff or the collar will be too stiff.
   
   
3. Bias binding: Since the Cortland is an unlined trench, we have you neatly finish your seam allowances with binding. This gives the coat a very neat and attractive finish and stands up to wear very well. You’ll need 12 yards of pre-made ¼” double fold bias tape. You can make your own but since so much is needed we find it easier to just purchase binding. 
   
   
4. Buttons: You’ll need 6 – 1” buttons for your coat closures.
   
   
5. Thread: I prefer to use standard poly thread for my garments. I like poly because I pre-treat my fabrics and I know that poly won’t shrink when laundered, keeping my seams nice and neat. Try to use high quality thread as it’s kinder to your machine.
   
   
6. Scissors or Rotary Cutter: You’ll need something to cut both your pattern and fabric. This can be a rotary cutter or scissors, whatever you find works best for you. I’m not much of a rotary person, but the scissors I find most useful for almost every project I make are my Gingher bent handle shears, embroidery scissors, and thread snips. I also use Wiess bent handle shears as my paper scissors. 
   
   
7. Rulers: You’ll need a tape measure to take your measurements as well as lay out your pattern pieces for cutting. We also like to have an 18″ gridded ruler handy as well as a seam gauge for pressing up your hems.
   
   
8. Machine Feet
   Regular Machine Foot: I love using my 1/4″ foot (which BERNINA calls the Patchwork Foot) because of the accuracy it provides but I recommend using whatever you’re used to.
   Edgestitch Foot: We use this foot when sewing down bias binding to make sure that we have an even stitching line, but it is optional. If your machine has one, it should look something like this.
   
   
9. Machine needles: You’ll need a machine needle appropriate for your fabric. I’ll be using a standard 80/12 for my twill. The seams can get a bit thick with the binding so make sure your needle will stand up to this.
   
   
10. Marking tools: You’ll need chalk or your favorite removable marking pen to both trace out your pattern as well as trace your pocket lines onto your pattern. This is my favorite chalk tracing pen, but use whatever works for you!
    
    
11. Pins: Whatever pins you usually use will be just fine for this as long as they correspond with your fabric choice. You’ll want to make sure they’re sturdy enough to stand up to your fabric. You may also want to consider either a standard pin or glass head since you’ll likely be pinning while you iron with the bound seams.
    
    
12. Iron & Ironing Board: Whatever you have on this front is great! As long as you have something to press on and with you're all set.
    
    
13. Ham & Sleeve Roll: I highly recommend having these on hand for your pressing. The Hadley is a simple top so any wacky pressing will really show up! I have this ham and sleeve roll by Dritz.