Journal Entry

Best Laid Plans, Foiled

Best Laid Plans, Foiled | Grainline Studio

I didn’t get a lot of non-pattern development sewing done this winter, it’s not that I didn’t have ideas, plans, or fabric, just a lack of time. I went through some fabric I had earmarked for some fall / winter garments and couldn’t help feeling a little bummed out about all the garments I was going to make that I didn’t get around to.

Best Laid Plans, Foiled | Grainline Studio

It wasn’t limited to sewing either, I started a sweater on January 1st that I’m still knitting. I had hoped this would be a quick knit that I could get some wear out of before spring rolled around but it’s turned into a bit of a beast. Mostly that’s my own fault, I’m knitting it based off the Hemlock Tee and got about 3/4 of the way done when I decided I was knitting too tight of a fabric. Knowing that I won’t wear things that aren’t exactly how I want them I took the whole thing out and started over. Ripping out the first time was a bit of an emotional experience but now that I’ve done it once it’s actually been a lot more fun to knit (and rip, if needed).

The problem with not being able to make anything unrelated to pattern development is that I’ve been feeling a bit uncreative lately. Usually making things for myself is where I experiment and get ideas for new patterns. I’m hoping to institute at least a half day of fun sewing a week to keep myself on track mentally + creatively. Do any of you have a sewing schedule you like to stick to to keep yourself motivated? Also, Me Made May is rapidly approaching so I definitely need to get myself in gear. Are you thinking of participating this year? I’d like to but there’s lots of sewing to be done first…

 

19 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Sewing Tutorials

Split Hem Linden Tutorial

Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio

A few months back I posted this split hem mariner stripe Linden and just realized that I never shared the tutorial on how I split the hem. This is a super easy alteration that adds a nice custom touch to the basic sweatshirt version. I really like it paired with a sweater knit but it would work equally well with regular jersey or sweatshirt fleece.

Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio

The only change you’ll need to make to the pattern is that you’ll want to cut the back hem band ribbing longer than the front. I added 2.25″ to mine so that it was visibly a different length than the front.

Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio

Rather than sew the ends of the ribbing pieces together to make one large circular hem band as the instructions are written, you’re going to fold the right sides of each hem band together and serge (or stitch) the ends of the bands so that you have a front and a back band with both edges closed.

Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio

From there you’ll want to turn the hem band right side out and give the ends of each band a good press.

Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio

Align the hem bands in the same fashion as you would if they were one continuous band. You’ll want the finished edges of the two bands to meet at the side seams. Once you’ve arranged these bands in place, serge (or stitch) the bands to the bottom of the sweatshirt. If you’re having trouble keeping the two ends in place at the side seam you can always do a bit of basting prior to serging the layers together.

Sewing Tutorial: Split Hem Linden | Grainline Studio

That’s all there is to it, you’ve not got a split hem on your Linden!

Also just a heads up, the paper version of the Linden is currently being re-printed but the PDF version is available as always. If you’d like to be notified of the Print Linden’s return to the shop, you can always sign up for our newsletter over in the sidebar and I’ll fill you in!

4 Comments Posted in Sewing Tutorials
Book Report

Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

It’s been a long time since I’ve done a book review but I wanted to fill you guys in on these two books, Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide and its companion Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book by Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston. I was sent these by Laurence King a bit back and was pleasantly surprised by both. After thinking over them for a bit, I felt that they could really be useful since so many of us now purchase fabric online and swatching isn’t always an option.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

Let’s start with The Complete Guide: “This book is intended as an easily navigable fabric lexicon that explores the relationship between fashion and textiles and encourages an awareness of fibers and fabrics in a broader fashion context. It is designed to inform the reader of the endless possibilities that fabrics offer to the design process. It is not intended as an exhaustive technical manual, but rather as a tool to inform, inspire, and encourage the creative use of fabrics.”

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

I’d say the description the authors offer is pretty spot on with what I thought about this book. It isn’t an exhaustive manual and they tell you that in the opening book, but honestly, it contains all the information I could ever see myself needing outside of an extremely technical context. The book begins in the first section by explaining some of the processes used to turn fibers into yarn and fabrics, explaining different types of weaves types of weaves, touching on the differences between wovens vs knits, and more. There’s also a nice section on color theory and selection which is a fun read.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch BookGrainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

Each of the fiber type sections in the book start with a history of the fiber, how it’s processed, and the general characteristics of that fiber in order to give you a bit of background on the fiber or fabric you’re working with before talking about the specific fabrics made from each fiber. This is a nice touch since it helps with a deeper understanding of each fiber and ultimately a more informed fabric selection.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

From there each fiber is broken down into the many different kinds of fabrics and weaves made from it and explains how each of these is produced and the specific properties they hold. There are plenty of photos illustration both the fibers before they’re made into fabrics as well as the steps they go through during processing.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

One of my favorite parts of the book is that the types of fabrics made from each fiber are divided into groups that share specific properties that would be instrumental when choosing fabrics. For example, with silk they’ve broken them down into sheer fabrics & fabrics with liquid drape to give you an idea of which fabrics may share similar characteristics. They have also included many current photos of the fabrics sewn up into garments which helps to illustrate how the final garment would act. I thought this was a really nice touch that carries throughout the book.

All in all this book is chocked full of good information that I think would be useful in learning about and choosing fabrics, but it really shines when paired with its companion The Swatch Book since that’s where you’ll actually get to touch the fabrics The Complete Guide is talking about.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

Now lets talk about my favorite of the two, The Swatch Book: “This book is an easily navigable swatch resource guide that aims to provide an introduction to a basic understanding of fabrics, and to support study into specific fibers and basic weaves. The book considers both natural and man-made fibers. The intention is to encourage students and practitioners to make informed textile choices based upon an understanding and basic knowledge of raw materials, together with the processes that make up a fabric.”

Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

As you can see from the table of contents, these two books really are meant to work together as companions and that’s definitely something they’ve done well. All of the fibers, talked about in The Complete Guide are present in The Swatch Book, which is nice as I know a lot of us are really tactile people.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

Much like The Complete Guide, The Swatch Book starts out with a bit of info on each type of fiber so that in the case that you don’t own the companion book you’re not flying blind. I like that they really put thought into the fact that many people may end up owning one or the other and made sure that each book stands on its own.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

By far, hands down, my favorite part about this book is the section Natural, Artificial, and Synthetic Comparisons. This section is exactly what it sounds and is something that I’ve found a lot of authors don’t cover in their books and a lot of people don’t fully understand. Aside from a written comparison they included this amazing page of swatches with the natural version of a fabric next to its synthetic or artificial counterpart. You can really see the difference between silk organza and nylon organza when they’re presented next to each other. A lot of time the synthetic version of a weave is harder to work with than the natural version and I think you can really see how this is true with the side by side comparison included in the book. Honestly I think this section alone makes the book worth purchasing if you’ve ever felt on the fence about this.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

This is a swatch book so, apart from descriptions of fabrics and comparisons, it contains many swatches of many types of fabric. The swatches are quite large and, unlike the swatch book we used in college, come adhered to the book rather than in a large bag requiring you to sort through and try to figure out what is what.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

There are a multitude of both natural and synthetic fibers covered here, even some odd ones you wouldn’t expect. There is a a banana swatch in there somewhere as well as some really fun synthetics.

Grainline Studio | Book Report | Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide & The Swatch Book

The one thing I don’t like about these books is that while there is a glossary at the back of each book, there is no index. I feel like a good reference book should always have an index for quick page reference. I get that the color coded tabs along the sides of the pages are supposed to act like this but it’s not as quick or accurate as an index would be. That said there is so much good info in these books, particularly my favorite, The Swatch Book, that the absence of an index is not a deal breaker for me.

One thing to note which isn’t a negative, just a heads up, this book is British and as such, many of the fabric names have slightly different spellings and in one or two instances a different name. I don’t foresee this being much of a problem though as it’s usually very easy to know what fabric they’re referencing. Also certain things like fiber will be spelled fibre, again, no big deal.

All in all I recommend this set, Fabrics for Fashion: The Complete Guide and Fabrics for Fashion: The Swatch Book, if you’re looking for a fabric guide this set would more than do the job, but if I had to pick one or the other my favorite would be The Swatch Book. This is due to the size of the swatches as well as the comparison between the natural, artificial, and synthetic fibers as well as the fact that I can see it being of great assistance in ordering fabrics online.

Do you own either of these books? What do you think? Is there a fabric guide you use and love?

11 Comments Posted in Book Report
Journal Entry

We’ve hired…meet Kendra!

Grainline Studio

If you’ve been paying close attention on Instagram you may have noticed Kendra popping up in my posts here and there. She came on to help me with a few things back in July one day a week  but as of February she’s here on a regular basis helping with all aspects of the business. It’s been great to have someone to bounce ideas off of – especially someone as hardworking, talented, and fun as Kendra. She’ll be helping me out on the blog as well as behind the scenes so I wanted to give you guys a chance to get to know her a little bit with a fun interview before she jumps in and starts posting so without further ado, blog readers, meet Kendra!

Jen: You also went to Columbia for Fashion Design, can you tell us a little bit about your sewing background? How did you get interested in sewing and fashion?

Kendra: I was always a bit of an art kid. When I was young, about 5, I loved to dance and that was a big part of life, maybe partly because I loved the tutus. In high school I wanted to be in every art class I could fit into my schedule. When I was about 15 I had already taken most of the art classes, so in the guidance counselor’s office, my advisor asked me if I had even thought about taking sewing classes. My high school had three levels, I took all three and then did an independent study with the sewing instructor. I had totally fallen in love with sewing and fashion design. I knew by my Junior year of high school I wanted to go to Columbia and study Fashion. I really enjoyed my four years there. The coursework was a good mix of technical skills and experimentation. I really loved my pattern making courses and found that it came pretty naturally to me. My brain just kinda worked that way.

Grainline Studio | Meet Kendra

What’s your favorite thing you’ve ever sewn?

In high school I made a pair of shorts, high waisted shorts weren’t really in style at the time but I wanted them anyways. I was taking sewing, so before I even really knew how to properly draft a pattern I went to the local fabric store and I got a pattern for trousers and went to my sewing class, changed the pattern by extending the waistband up and cutting off the leg. It had this cute little placket and I just wore them so much, I wore out the pockets, I wore out the hem, I mended them so many times. They are in my fix it bag now actually.

Grainline Studio | Meet Kendra

The craziest thing you’ve ever sewn?

When I was in college, I made this skirt, where I drafted and sewed up a pencil skirt from muslin and then sewed tulle from the waistband to the hem. Once it was completely covered in tulle, I put it on a dress form and cut the tulle down into the shape I wanted, like I was giving the tulle a haircut! It made a huge mess but was so much fun.

Grainline Studio | Meet Kendra

Are there fabrics or fibers you love to work with? Any you hate?

I love bamboo knits, silk organza, and I’m starting to getting really into knitting so Merino wool is definitely a favorite. I hate fabric that doesn’t press well.

Speaking of fabrics, do you have a dream fabric store find?

Did you ever see that cardigan that Creatures of the Wind did for J. Crew? If I could walk into a fabric store and see a bolt of that it would make my year, plus a killer Linden.

I’m big into the handmade wardrobe, obviously, do you have any specific sewing or handmade wardrobe goals for the next year?

Yes! I told myself that this year I was not going to buy any store-bought clothes, besides shoes…I am going to wear what’s in my current wardrobe and when I have the craving to get myself something new, I’m going to make something instead.

Three words that describe your style:

minimal, muted, balanced.

Grainline Studio | Meet Kendra

What’s your favorite type of garment to sew?

I love making clothing that fits into my daily life, so I would say I like sewing functional garments. It’s the after effect that always gets me, when you keep reaching for the pieces you’ve made because they go with everything and look great on, that’s the best feeling.

Do you have any fiber hobbies besides sewing? Any you’d love to try?

Oh man, like I said, I’m getting really into knitting as of late. I have known how to knit for a while but never pushed myself to move past knitting in a straight line. I’ve made some hats, a pair of slippers, and I’m trying to pick a color for my very first sweater! I would also love to make a quilt sooner than later. I’ve done some embroidery in the past, I’ve been meaning to get back into that as well.

Grainline Studio | Meet Kendra

You’ve been sewing up each pattern over the past few months, do you have a favorite Grainline Studio pattern?

I love the Scout because it’s so cute as is but you can do so much to change it up! The Archer is great too, it’s such a wearable shirt. I’m starting to get hungry for spring so I’m pretty stoked to be making some Alders for warmer weather.

Snacks are big here at Grainline Studio HQ, what are your favorite snacks or bevs?

Can I pick all snacks? I don’t think I’ve ever met a snack I didn’t like. Tacos is the first thing that comes to mind though!

Finally, because it’s the internet, dogs or cats?

Have you seen my dapper little man, Waffles the cat?

Grainline Studio | Meet Kendra

 

16 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Today is the final post in the Cascade Sew-Along, save for some variations I have planned that will pop up in the next few weeks, and we’re going to be sewing the lining into the coat. We will be doing this using the “bagged” method which requires little to no hand stitching. This method seems kind of crazy when you’re first reading through it but it definitely works, and works well! If you feel like you need more guidance, I have a Bagged Jacket Lining tutorial on the blog already, sometimes seeing things written out and photographed more than once can help clear out confusion, so you may want to check that out as well. And with that, lets get started!

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Begin by laying the coat shell out face up and the coat lining face down on top of it.

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Pin around the edges of the facings only, do not do anything with the lining yet.

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the bottom, sides, and neckline of where the coat and facings meet. You may want to turn your coat right side out at this point to double check that everything has been sewn at the right place before we seal up the coat in the next step. If you need to make any adjustments to the stitching, do that now.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Now align the hems of the lining and facing, fold back the seam allowance where the lining and facing meets. The sleeves will be tucked up inside of the body. It will seem like the lining is too short to meet the facing but don’t worry about that, this is what will create the pleat when the coat is turned.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the bottom of the hem. Clip your corners and grade the seam allowances along the seams that are sewn to the facing. You do not need to clip or grade anything related to the hem of the lining or hem facing.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Now lay your coat out in a similar fashion. We’ll be attaching the sleeve facing and lining together in these next steps. I promise you’ll be able to get your jacket right side out after this no matter how strange this may seem.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Fold the cuff of the sleeve lining up about 2″.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Insert the folded lining cuff into the sleeve of the coat. You’ll want to make sure that the sleeves aren’t twisted and you have the correct seams matching each other.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

The front and back underarm seams should be matching.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the cuff at the standard 1/2″ seam allowance. I’ve found this is the easiest setup to do so at my machine.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Your cuff now looks like this. Repeat the previous steps for the other sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

After both sleeves are connected at the cuffs, find the hole you left in one of the seams of the sleeve. If you left it open you’re good, if you basted it shut like I did to get a sharp seam press, then open the basting now.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

You will now begin slowly pulling the entire coat out that hole. Work slowly a little bit at a time and your coat will come through just fine. This Pendleton wool is SUPER thick and it worked with no trouble.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

You now have a coat that looks something like this. Pull the sleeves out and head over to your ironing board and begin gently pressing along the outer seam line to give the edges of your jacket a sharp press.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Despite the fact that none of these seams are on a curve, I find it easiest to press on the wool side of the ham because it holds the steam in longer to give a sharper press.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Once your coat is pressed, find the hole you made in the sleeve (we haven’t sewn it up yet) and run your hand through it to grab the side seams of both the lining and shell of the opposite side from the sleeve you have the hole in.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Bring the both out through the sleeve hole so that they’re visible and aligned next to one another.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

We will now create a thread chain between the two points to reduce lining slippage at the underarm. You won’t have to worry about the lining slipping far into or out of the sleeve when putting on and removing your coat. Once you’ve done that side, repeat for the other underarm.

 

The above is a small video illustrating how to make a thread chain. Apologies for the heater going on in the background, I unfortunately don’t have control over that.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Once both of your thread chains are in, you can sew up the hole in the sleeve one of two ways. You could do it by hand, or run over to your machine and stitch close to the edge. I usually use the machine method but either works equally well.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Once the hole is sewn up your last step is to stitch shut the small opening in the bottom of the jacket. Align and press everything as shown above and hand stitch in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

And congratulations!! You’ve just sewn the Cascade Duffle Coat!! I’m super proud of you and it really wasn’t that hard at all was it! It’s supposed to warm up a bit around here this weekend so I should be able to get some better photos of the finished coats for next week. I can’t believe it but it’s actually been too cold to wear any of my Cascades recently. I hope you enjoyed the sew along and learned a thing or two. Can’t wait to see your finished coats! If you’re on social media consider tagging me (@grainlinestudio) or using the #CascadeDuffleCoat or #CascadeSewAlong hashtags so I can check out what you’re up to with them!

 

2 Comments Posted in Cascade Sew Along
News

Shipping Notification for March 9-16th

Delayed Shipping March 9-15th

I just wanted to let you all know that any orders placed between March 9-13 will be subject to intermittent shipping and may not go out until March 16th. If there’s anything you need from the shop, the last scheduled shipment will go out Friday afternoon so I recommend ordering before 2PM CST to ensure you get into that shipment. I’ll be in and out of the office that week and I apologize for this inconvenience. I thank you for your understanding.

2 Comments Posted in News
Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Today we’ll be assembling our lining and facings to get ready to bag our coat. To begin, grab the two back lining pieces and pin the center back seam with right sides facing. Stitch along the seam allowance line.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Press the seam allowance open. Since the center back contains a curve for the pleat I like to press it over my ham.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Bring the two center back notches together to form the back pleat. Pin and stitch within the 1/2″ seam allowance. I stitched mine at 1/4″

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll be attaching the lining to the center back facing. Match the edges and center back and pin between those points. Above shows you what each side of the lining will look like when pinned.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the seam and grade the seam allowance of the lining.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the lining away from the facing and run a line of stitching along the lining side of the seam to keep it in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Next we’ll be attaching our front lining pieces to the front facings. Align the two pieces matching ends and notches. Before you stitch, measure up 2″ from the hem and mark that point with a pin. You’ll stop sewing here, leaving the bottom 2″ of the lining and facing unattached. Grade the seam allowance of the lining along the stitching line, do not grade where you left the lining hanging free.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the lining away from the facings and stitch along the lining side of the seam as you did for the center back facing.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Sew the side and shoulders seam together and press seam allowances open. Set the body aside.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Assemble and insert your sleeves. If you need detailed instructions for this step, see the previous post, Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams and Sleeves. Set the lining aside.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll be attaching the sleeve and hem facings to the coat. Begin by sewing the front hem facings to the back hem facing matching notches and with right sides towards each other. Trim your seam allowance and press the seams open.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Align the hem facing with the hem of the coat with the right sides facing. Match center back and seam lines and stitch along the hem from one edge of the facing to the other. Grade the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the facing down and understitch along the facing side of the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Sew the ends of each sleeve facing together, press the seam allowances open, and trim them down to half.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Align the sleeve and sleeve facing so that right sides are facing and the seam of the facing matches the back seam of the sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the sleeve opening and grade the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the sleeve facing and seam allowance away from the sleeve. I find this is most easily accomplished by using the sleeve roll.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Understitch along the sleeve facing. Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

You now have your lining assembled and facings attached. Our final Cascade Sew-Along post will show you how to insert the lining using the “bagged” method. Stay tuned!

 

2 Comments Posted in Cascade Sew Along
Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Today we’ll be assembling and attaching the hood. Start by grabbing your self hood pieces and set the hood lining and facings aside for a moment.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: HoodCascade Sew-Along: Hood

With right sides facing pin the center hood to one section of the side hood. Match edges and notches, then pin around the curved section.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Sew the two pieces together and notch along the curve of the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Press your seam allowance open. Using a ham for this will help you smoothly press along the curved seam allowance of the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Repeat these steps to attach the other side of the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

To assemble the hood lining, follow the above steps with the lining pieces.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

For the hood facing, sew the two side facings to the center facings. Make sure to match your notches so the center panel isn’t sewn in backwards. Press your seam allowances open and grade them in half.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Pin your hood facing to the hood with right sides together. Make sure to match your edges and seam allowances, and sew the two layers together.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Grade the facing side of the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Press both the facing and the seam allowance away from the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Understitch along the facing side of the seam.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Press the facing to the underside of the hood, be sure to roll the seam line slightly to the inside so that it doesn’t show on the outside of the hood. The understitching you did in the previous step will help ensure this happens.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Align the raw edges of the hood lining and hood facing with right sides of the fabric facing each other. Match your seams and fabric edges. Stitch together.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Grade the seam allowance of the lining.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Flip the hood right side out and align the raw neckline edges of the hood and lining together. There will be a bit of overlap in the lining which forms a pleat at the edge of the lining, this allows for movement inside the hood and acts in the same fashion as the hem pleat of a lining. Fold the excess over as shown above and stitch the two layers together just inside the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

You now have a completed hood which we will attach to the neckline in the next step.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Lay the coat and hood out in the above formation. The right side of the coat should be facing up and the lining of the hood will also be facing up.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Match the center back notches and the fronts of the coat. If you read the post on attaching the collar, you’ll want to align the front edge of the hood in the same fashion. The seam line of the collar should hit right at the corner of the seam allowance of the front of the coat as it does in the above photo.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Pin the rest of the hood in place and stitch through the hood and neckline to attach the hood to the coat. You don’t need to clip or notch any seam allowances quite yet, we’ll get to that when we attach the lining of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

You’ll now have your collar or hood attached and are ready for the next step of assembling the lining and facings. See you back here for that part next!

 

1 Comment Posted in Cascade Sew Along
Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Next up in the Cascade Sew-Along is applying either your collar or hood. Today I’ll be showing you how to attach your hood. In the booklet and samples, View A is shown with the collar and View B with the hood but the two are completely interchangeable. Begin by pinning the center back seam of the under collar pieces together with the right sides facing each other.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Stitch the two layers together and press the seam open.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Next, again with the right sides facing, align the under and upper collars along the outer edges and stitch the two layers together.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Grade your seams and either notch or trim your corners. I like to trim down the entire corner to about 1/8″ instead of notching, it usually gives a much smoother curve. For an explanation of the differences between the two methods, you can check out this tutorial.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Head over to your ironing board and press the seam allowance and the under collar away from the collar.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You’ll now want to understitch along the seam line through the seam allowance and under collar. Since the rounded edge of the corner is too tight to neatly understitch you’ll just be doing this on the straight sides and back edge of the collar.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You’ll now have something like this. You can see how the understitching makes the seam line want to naturally roll to the underside of the collar, this is helpful in the next step.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press the collar flat making sure that the seam allowance rolls to the underside of the collar and that the raw edges of the upper and under collar meet.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Pin the two layers together and stitch along the raw edges of the collar at 1/4″ or somewhere within the seam allowance. This ensures that the two pieces act as one while attaching the collar stand.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Next you’re going to pin the non-interfaced collar stand piece to the collar with the right sides facing. Make sure you’ve matched your notches and your seam lines at the edge. Stitch the two layers together along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Clip the pointed ends of the collar stand so that it’s flush with the edge of the collar.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Notch and grade the seam allowance of the collar stand.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Now align the interfaced collar stand with the upper collar side of the collar. With right sides facing pin in place matching notches and seam lines.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Stitch through all layers. I stitched with the interfaced collar stand facing towards the feed dogs so I could follow the stitching line I previously used exactly. This ensures that you don’t see any of the previous stitching when you flip the collar stand back over.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

This is what you’ve got after the last step. Do as you did for the other collar stand, trim the points flush, grade, and notch the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press both of the collar stands down, I find this easiest to do on top of the ham, wool side up as I mentioned a few posts back.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

After you’ve done that, run a line of topstitching along the collar stand curve to anchor the two layers together. Alternately you could stitch in the ditch along the curved collar / collar stand seam. I don’t recommend putting a line of stitching along the collar side of the curve since depending on where it’s placed it can affect the roll of the collar. Once you’ve done this, run a line of stitching inside the seam allowance at the bottom raw edge of the collar so that it acts as one layer when attaching it to the neckline.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Illustrating the roll of the collar and stitching lines.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll attach the assembled collar to the neckline of the coat. Begin by laying out the coat with the right side facing up and the under collar facing up. This is how the collar will end up attached to the coat in the end.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Fold the collar down over the coat so that the under collar is facing the right side of the coat. Pin in place matching center back, shoulder seams, and the front edge of the jacket.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

When placing the front edge of the collar with the coat you want the finished edge of the collar to fall at the 1/2″ seam allowance of the coat edge.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Stitch through all layers of the collar and neckline. If your fabric is particularly bulky like my this Pendleton is you may find it helpful to use a walking foot and possibly increase your stitch length to help the fabric move through your machine.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You can see here how the edge of the collar and front band match up at the corner of the 1/2″ seam allowance. This is how you know that your collar and band will both meet exactly at the corner of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Your collar is now attached! Next up, assembling and attaching the hood.

 

 

6 Comments Posted in Cascade Sew Along
Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Today we’re turning our coat pieces into something you can actually wear, side seams & sleeves! Begin by sewing the coat fronts and backs together (with right sides facing of course) at the side seams and sleeves.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Press both your shoulder and side seams open. Set the body aside.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

To sew the sleeves begin by aligning the outer seam of the upper and lower sleeve pieces. Pin in place making sure you’ve matched any plaids, stripes, or prints if you have them. Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Stitch along that seam and press the seam allowance open. As usual I’m pressing my wool on the wool side of my ham.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Next align the inner seam, again matching anything that needs to be matched, and stitch along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Press this seam open as well. This step will be accomplished much more easily with the aid of a seam roll.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

You will now have this beautiful little sleeve. Our next step is to place two lines of basting stitches around the cap of the sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

The basting lines should run between the front and back notches up around the cap of the sleeve. Since we’re working with 1/2″ seam allowances I recommend placing the first line at approximately 3/8″ and the second at 5/8″ this way the sleeve cap gathering is held in place on either side of your stitching line which makes it much harder to get any tucks in your cap.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

With the right sides of the sleeve and the coat facing begin pinning the coat and sleeve layers together. Begin with the side seam of the coat which will match to the underarm notch on the sleeve. From there work up matching both the front and back notches of coat and sleeve; the sleeve cap notch will align with the shoulder seam of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

From there place a few pins between the notches as needed using the basting stitches to ease the sleeve cap into the armhole.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Stitch around the armhole and remove your basting stitches. Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Your coat now has sleeves! It will look a little funny if you try it on since we haven’t pressed the bands down the front of the coat yet, we’re saving that for after we insert the lining. We’ve not got something decidedly coat like at this point and I’m sure you are now starting to feel like we’re nearing the finish line. Next up are two posts about finishing that neckline. The first will be assembling and attaching the collar, and the second for the hood. See you back here for those next week!

3 Comments Posted in Cascade Sew Along