Sewing Tutorials

Madewell Scout Variation: Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

Alright, here we go with the sewing portion of the Madewell Scout Variation. If you missed the pattern tutorial you can find it here. For this tutorial you’ll need the following supplies…

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Start sewing according to the Scout Tee instructions. The original Madewell top has faux flat felled seams throughout the garment. To achieve this finish, begin by sewing your seam as normal.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Serge your seam (alternately you can use a pinking shears or zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to keep the fabric from fraying), press the seam allowance to one side, and stitch through the seam allowance and top 1/4″ from the seam, anchoring the seam allowance. This is a faux flat felled seam.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next we’ll tackle the front V opening. We’re going to do finish this opening much the way you would finish a continuous sleeve placket. To start, clip to, but not through, the point you marked as the point of your V.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Cut a strip of 1″ wide bias tape long enough to span the opening. You can see in the above photo that the bias tape and seam allowance of the V meet except for a small wedge in the center by my thumb. This is the part without proper seam allowance that you clipped open in the above step, it will sit 1/4″ away from the edge of the bias binding. Sew from one edge to the other making sure to catch the tip of the V at the center. For more detailed instructions on sewing a continuous sleeve placket, see this tutorial.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next grade the seams and press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the top.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Understitch and fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment. Press the raw edge of the binding under and pin.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Sew along the edge of the binding. Now you have your V opening!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

To finish the rest of the neckline, you’ll follow the instructions included with the Scout with this one exception. When you get to the edges of the V opening, leave a bit of fabric over the edge as in the lower edge in the photo. This will be tucked up into the binding creating a finished the finished edge at the top of this photo.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Now to create the sleeve cuff. Insert your sleeves according to the directions in the Scout instructions. Fold up the sleeve along the new sleeve length line you marked on the pattern. Give the folded edge a good press.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Fold under your 1/4″ hem allowance along the raw edge, press.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next fold down the 1/2″ hem and press in place.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Fold the hem edge down to meet the new sleeve length you pressed earlier.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.

Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.

Fold the sleeve down and out of the way, stitch along the edge of the hem anchoring the hem in place. You may want to do a small bar tack at the underarm of the cuff to keep it from folding down while being worn.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Give your cuffs and shirt a final press and you’re done!

 

 

 

 

5 Comments Posted in Sewing Tutorials
Pattern Tutorials

Madewell Scout Variation: Pattern Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

As promised, here is the first tutorial in making the Scout Tee Madewell variation. I broke this down into two sections because it was getting pretty long as one post. For this variation tutorial you will need the following things…

  • Scout Tee Pattern
  • Rulers (straight and curved)
  • Pencil
  • Paper

You can click the below images to see a larger version if needed.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Pattern Tutorial

Figure 1

  • You’re going to need to first lengthen the sleeve. Decide how long you want your finished sleeve to be, this will be the length from the sleeve cap to the first line in the illustration above, new sleeve length.
  • Decide how wide you want your cuffs to be, mine are 1.5″ wide. Measure down that distance from the new sleeve length line, this is the first fold line. Measure down the same distance again to create the second fold line. This is your cuff.
  • Now to create the hem measure down 1/2″ from the second fold line. This will fold to the underside of the cuff, ensuring the cuff has no stitching lines.
  • From there measure down another 1/4″ hem seam allowance which you will fold under while hemming the sleeve.
  • The width of the bottom of my cuff is 16″ including seam allowance.

Figure 2

  • For the center front piece we’re going to need to create a new neckline. Raise the front of the neckline to the desired height, I raised mine 2.5″ then reblend the neckline.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Pattern Tutorial

Figure 3

  • Measure down from the center front neckline to the point you’d like the opening to start, mine was 5.5″ down.
  • Next measure over from the center front neckline 3/4″ and connect that point with the point you marked in the above step to create the neckline wedge. Add 1/4″ seam allowance to the line you just drew.
  • Curve the hem of the shirt, I marked a point 2′ up from the bottom edge of the side seam and blended to the center front.

Figure 4

  • Do the same to the hem of the center back pattern piece so that both the front and back have a curved hem.

That’s it for the pattern section. For the sewing tutorial click here!

7 Comments Posted in Pattern Tutorials
News

Grainline Studio on Marketplace

Grainline Studio | Marketplace Feature

I’m so excited to share this news, I was interviewed for Marketplace a bit back and my piece aired yesterday! I was totally nervous to see what made the cut into the final interview, the interview I did down at WBEZ was about a half hour long. It was really strange, sitting in a little sound proof room with fancy headphones on and a little round microphone, talking to them in LA, especially since I was super nervous! Anyway I’m super happy with how the little piece turned out, especially all the little sound effects, which are actually me working! They sent someone over to my house to record me working, (Bill Healy, who it turns out is an award winning  journalist and sound recorder so he was totally overqualified) and that part was really really fun. I had to keep making the loudest noises I could with my tools on repeat…it was pretty hard not to laugh.

Anyway, you can listen to the finished piece below or click over to their site to listen there, hope you enjoy and also get a sense of just how much I love my job making patterns for all of you. And me, my wardrobe definitely benefits. Ha!

54 Comments Posted in News
Sewn Garments

Spring ’14 Wardrobe: Madewell Scout Variation

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

Hey guys! I’m back today with another Spring ’14 Wardrobe post. I’ve been a bit slow on the spring wardrobe making, but then again, it’s April 16th and the snow from the other day just melted. Either I’m waiting for spring to finish this wardrobe or spring is waiting for me, and if it’s the latter, I apologize wholeheartedly!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

This top is based on a top that Madewell has been carrying for the past few seasons, but I kind of hate the way most Madewell shirts fit me so I never purchased it despite trying it on a few times. I figured I could make an easy job of this style by starting with the Scout Tee pattern and doing a few easy tweaks. It would have been an hour or two project except that I photographed every step to give you guys a tutorial! Yess!!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

It took me SO long to photograph this tutorial, but it was also really really fun. I discovered there’s an iPhone app for my camera that acts as a wireless remote soooo that meant I could put my camera on a tripod, use both my hands to handle the fabric in the photo and then use my big toe to trip the shudder! WHOOO technology!!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

I really love how this shirt turned out, and the fabric is no small part of it. The folks at Robert Kauffman were kind enough to send me some of their 6.5oz denim for this and another project and I have to say, it’s the perfect weight for a denim garment! I’m kind of a big fan of this stuff from way back when, last summer I made a Moss skirt & Maritime shorts out of it, and my couch *might* be covered in it as well. Anyway, I love the way it sews up and can’t wait to show you the second project in a few weeks!

If you’d like to make your own with the Scout Tee pattern check out the pattern and sewing tutorials!

27 Comments Posted in Sewn Garments
Journal Entry

Moss Making Month

Grainline Studio | Moss Making Month

I’m a few days late on posting this but Stephanie at Makes the Things and Sara at An Elemental Life have declared April Moss Making Month! I’m pumped, these girls are always making stuff that I covet and I’m sure their Moss skirts will be no exception. You can follow along with them on Instagram by tagging #mossmakingmonth or following them on Instagram (makesthethings and anelementallife), don’t forget to tag #grainlinestudio and #mossskirt so I can see what you’re making as well if you join in! I’m hoping to get a Moss or two made myself since I basically lived in mine last summer. Hope you join in!

11 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Tips & Tricks

Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

I was cutting out this sweatshirt over the weekend and ended up trying a few different layouts before I settled on the one that worked. I thought I would show the difference in yardage needed to cut this pattern with the fabric folded vs. the fabric flat.

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

Home sewing patterns have you cut your pieces out on the fold, cutting goes more quickly this way since you’re only cutting half, and the fabric fits more easily the size tables most people have in their homes. Unfortunately it’s almost never the most effective way to a great fabric yield. With this first method, fabric folded selvage to selvage I’m about  1/4 yd short.

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

With the selvages folded towards the center I can fit both front and back on the fold but only one sleeve. So close yet so far!

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

With the fabric laid out flat everything fits perfectly since you’re not wasting any of the fabric by folding it over. To make the full pattern I just traced the front and back pattern pieces on a folded piece of large white butcher paper and then traced an extra sleeve. Moral of the story, if you’re a tiny bit short on fabric  and you’re really dead set on using it, or if you’re just obsessed with yield like I am, try laying it out flat…you may be able to get it to fit!

40 Comments Posted in Tips & Tricks
Sew & Tell

Kira of Yarn, Purl, Stitch’s Archer

Grainline Studio | Sew & Tell |Kira of Yarn, Purl, Stitch

This Archer by Kira of yarn, purl, stitch totally blew me away when I saw it during the December Archer Awareness Month. Not only did she make a button down shirt, she dyed the fabric AND shashiko embroidered the yoke. So beautiful!!

Name Kyra

Pattern Archer Button Up Shirt

Kyra’s Blog Kyra Clarke

Her Project Post Sleeveless Sashiko Archer

What type of fabric / materials did you use? “I used the remnants of 2 metres of cotton voile I dyed navy blue with Dylon hand dye for another project. For the embroidery I used Presencia Finca Perle 8 thread in a similar colour to the dyed fabric.”

Tell us more about your project! “I was inspired by all of the sashiko stitching I’ve seen around recently, and particularly an image on pinterest of a denim button up shirt with sashiko stitching across the shoulders. I loved my first archer, also made in a cotton voile, and wanted to try my hand at a sleeveless version. These two ideas came together and I had a sashiko archer.

I borrowed a book from the library (The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook, by Susan Briscoe) and decided on a simple pattern to stitch Seigaiha (blue ocean waves). After cutting out the shirt I ruled up one of the yoke pieces in 1 inch squares and hand drew the pattern. Using the thread doubled I just followed the lines in a running stitch and then sewed it up as usual. I love how the thread is subtle against the blue of the shirt, creating texture as well as the pattern.

I didn’t make many alterations to the archer shirt itself. I didn’t like the interfacing I used for the first archer I made, so instead I cut out additional pieces from my fabric and basted them in place, removing the thread once I finished the shirt. I slimmed it slightly by removing half an inch from each of the side seams, omitted the pockets and collar and other than that followed the instructions Jen gave for the sleeveless archer.

This is such a wonderful pattern, really easy to construct and in a super light fabric it works excellently as a top for the Australian summer. Thanks Jen.”

9 Comments Posted in Sew & Tell
Sewn Garments

Spring ’14 Wardrobe: Cream Terry Sweatshirt

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

I’m so excited to blog the first part of my Spring ’14 Wardrobe! I finished this a little bit ago but was waiting for some non-coat, snow melted weather to go out and photograph it and yesterday was the day.

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

I picked up this natural colored terry at Drygoods while I was in Seattle last fall with the vague idea of making a sweatshirt. Quick note about Drygoods, I feel like Keli is stocking that shop specifically for me. SO GOOD!! Okay back to the sweatshirt. Originally I thought I’d dye this fabric but when I saw this slightly off colored ribbing at JoAnn I got the idea to make the sweatshirt with ‘contrast’ ribbing. Can you really call it contrast ribbing when it’s just barely off? It’s off colored enough that you can tell I mean to do it, but still really subtle. If it didn’t work out I was going to overdye the sweatshirt but I love how it turned out!

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

You can see the contrast a bit better here. For the pattern I drafted a sweatshirt with a wider neck than normal. I hate when things are close up on my neck, always feel like I’m choking, so this neck is great for me.

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

This was also my first real project on my Bernina coverstitch/chainstitch machine. I’d done a lot of sewing with it on scraps to test it out and see what worked and what didn’t, but it took me quite a while after I purchased it to get to a real project. I have to say I love it so far!

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

Anyway I’m loving this sweatshirt and now that it’s been photographed I can wear it without worry of a tea mishap or some similar horror! It’s funny how now when I make something, instead of wearing it with abandon right away I wait till I’ve photographed it to really wear it like a normal garment. Ha!

Grainline Studio | Spring '14 Wardrobe | Cream Terry Sweatshirt

One last hilarious Chicago alleyway photo. Check out that beautiful pile of dirty, dingy, old snow. You thought it was a rock? Ha! Also in case you were wondering, here are the details of my outfit.

jean jacket – high school | jean jacket pin – canadian souvineir shop
shoes – dieppa restrepo | bag – claire vivier | pants – gap

69 Comments Posted in Sewn Garments
Progress Report

Laying out the Catnap Quilt

Grainline Studio | Laying out the Catnap Quilt

Lately I’ve been very busy working on things that are, as of yet, unbloggable, but I’m trying this new thing where I take at least one day off during the weekend to work on something totally unrelated to business. Over the past two weekends I’ve started working on my Catnap Quilt!

Grainline Studio | Laying out the Catnap Quilt

I ordered a full set of fat quarters of Lizzy House’s Catnap fabric line and cut each into 6 triangles using a scaled down version of this tutorial by Fancy Tiger Crafts. I LOVE how each of their quilts turned out and figured that since I have a similar color scheme I’d be in good hands.

Grainline Studio | Laying out the Catnap Quilt

Grainline Studio | Laying out the Catnap Quilt

As you can see, I had a LOT of help with laying out this quilt. It took me an entire day to lay out the triangles so that they looked random but without too many color or print pools. It was way more work than I had imagined it would be but I’m happy with the layout I finally came up with.

Grainline Studio | Laying out the Catnap Quilt

This past weekend I spent a chunk of Saturday assembling my quilt. I got about half way done and I’m hoping to finish assembling the quilt top next weekend if I have time. I can’t wait to have this quilt replace my worn out couch blanket, especially since the sun is now beaming down onto the couch in the late afternoons begging for a little sun break! I haven’t decided how on my backing or how I’ll be quilting it yet but I figure I still have time for that. Are any of you working on quilts right now? They’re kind of a fun change from garment sewing all the time!

64 Comments Posted in Progress Report
Journal Entry

Giveaway Winner!

Grainline Studio | Christine Haynes Giveaway

Hey guys, thanks so much for entering the giveaway! It was really fun reading through the comments and hearing what techniques / sewing related things you’d like to get better at. Now it’s time to announce the winner……….. It’s Julia! I’m not going to lie, I really really wanted to secret enter myself into this for that amazing fabric from Christine but I refrained. It was hard though!!

Grainline Studio | Christine Haynes Giveaway Winner

Hope you all have an excellent weekend, it’s 50F here, I’ve got a window open and I’m working on some patterns. Pretty good start to the weekend if you ask me! I’ll be back Monday with more plans for my Spring Wardrobe. See you then!!

 

4 Comments Posted in Journal Entry