Grainline Studio x Britex | Hemlock Tissue Tee Tutorial

Britex x Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Pattern

Have you downloaded your Hemlock Tee pattern yet? If not, head over here and grab it, if you have get ready, we’re going to sew it up really quick here. I used a serger for these tops, I think they work better with the tissue knits than a sewing machine does, but if you don’t have one you can use your sewing machine. I’d recommend a walking foot and a stretch or zig zag stitch and a bit of testing before you start.

Britex x Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Pattern

I was lucky enough to be able to make two tees in this amazing Japanese tissue knit, the first I went with these classic tomato and cream stripes and in the second I did a bit of color-blocking with this amazing neon yellow and charcoal grey. These knits are so light and airy, I couldn’t believe it. Serious dream town. You’ll need 1.5 yds of fabric 45-54″ wide. The striped fabric I used was 78″ wide so I got the entire top out of one yard.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 01 |┬áPrint and assemble your pattern. Decide where you want to your color split to be and mark. Cut along these lines and be sure to add seam allowance to your new seam line! If you’re not making a color-blocked version of this tee, ignore this first step.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 02 | Tissue knits can be a bit of a pain to cut and work with because they roll pretty heavily. I like to use a rotary cutter to cut my pieces. Lay your fabric out on top of your rotary mat and trace around the pattern with the rotary wheel.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 03 | Align the tops and bottoms of the pieces you cut apart to color-block and serge the pieces together. Press seam down. Again, if you’re doing a one color version of this top, ignore this step.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Tip | Make sure that you loosen the tension on your serger when working with tissue knits to keep the seam nice and flat.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 04 | Serge shoulder seams and press towards back of garment.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 05 | Match the center shoulder seam with the center sleeve cap notch and the underarm edges of the sleeve cap with the notches on the side seams. Serge sleeve in place and press seam towards sleeve. Repeat for other sleeve.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 06 | Align front and back hems, underarm seams, and cuffs and serge side seams together. Press this seam towards the back of the garment.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 07 | Now for the neckband, this is a step that could have you swearing because of how badly tissue knits roll. I’m going to show you what I’ve found works for me to make the neckline application super painless and quick. For the Hemlock pattern you can make the neckband as wide as you’d like. I did a 1/2″ finished neckband on the striped shirt and a 3/4″ finished neckband on the color-blocked version.

Cut a piece of the knit along the crosswise grain an inch or two wider than you’ll need for your neckband and at least 23″ long (the length you’ll need for the neckband). If you’re going to make a 1/2″ neckband for instance, the neckband flat with 3/8″ seam allowance would be 1 3/4″ wide so if you cut 4″ that would be perfect. Fold the strip in half and press the rolled edges down as well as you can.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 08 | Head over to your serger and mark a line the width of your finished neckline with seam allowance PLUS an additional 3/8″ and run your strip through with the fold at the tape line serging off any additional fabric.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 09 | Cut your neckband piece to 23″ long.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 10 | Unpick an inch or so of each side of the serging and place the two ends together with right sides facing.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 11 | Serge the two sides together.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 12 | Serge over the opening.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 13 | Mark the center front and center back of the neckline and neck band as well as halfway between each of these points.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 14 | Line up all 4 points to the edge of the serging you did in the previous steps and place a pin in each one. Don’t worry about pinning between the points, since we’re serging you don’t want a lot of pins in that you could potentially run over with your machine.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 15 | Now serge along the neckline cutting off the previous serging to reduce bulk. Stretch the neckband but be sure not to stretch the neckline of the shirt while you go.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 16 | Press the neckband down towards the shirt. Optionally you can place a line of stitching with your sewing machine along the neckline to keep this seam in place.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Tutorial

Step 17 | Fold up 1″ at the hems and stitch in place with your machine. I like to use a walking foot while stretching just slightly. Tissue knits don’t have the recovery of regular knits since they’re so thin so if you stretch too much the thread will hold its place rather than contracting with the knit. It can also help to avoid stretching if you reduce pressure on your presser foot.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee Pattern [it's free]

I hope this helps you want to give tissue knits a try, they’re really a lot easier than their reputation would make them seem, and with this assortment of knits who can resist trying. Seriously everywhere I wear these shirts people want to know where I bought them. Yum!

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33 Responses to Grainline Studio x Britex | Hemlock Tissue Tee Tutorial

  1. Sunni says:

    Tissue knits scare me to death! I’ve ruined so many knit pieces and then to add some lightweight airy thing to that, yikes! However, you’ve got awesome tips here. Usually I sew all knits on my machine and then serge the seams together, so I like the idea of using the serger for the whole thing. Your tees are so cute! I love the yellow & charcoal one the best I think. Perfect timing for these as we’ve hit a serious heat wave here.

  2. carlalissa says:

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. I am dying to try the pattern! I have a coral and grey knit it will work perfectly…. only one question where did you get those amazing pattern weighs?

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  5. Thanks so much for the tutorial! I have definitely been frustrated with tissue knits in the past, but I’m excited to try again with the Hemlock :)

  6. erin says:

    It’s the kind of Tee that I like to wear all the time, so it’s perfect for me:) Thanks for sharing!

  7. I couldn’t wait for your instructions Jen and I made a Hemlock Tee yesterday! Such an awesome pattern. Thanks for you generousity.

  8. Jan says:

    I love your T-shirts and have been looking for this particular design, but I am at the upper end of the measurement scale, particularly in the hips. I think the arms and bust would be fine. Any suggestions as to how I could enlarge the body to the T, without spoiling the design?

  9. kathi giumentaro says:

    Thank you so much for the Hemlock tee pattern. I can’t wait to make one or 2 or 3.
    I just finished my 6th Archer shirt. That is the best pattern EVER.

  10. meghan says:

    I LOVE this! You’re so great. The colors are so great. So much love for this top

  11. Sarah says:

    I’ve got a neon yellow lightweight sweater knit that would be RAD for this! Thanks so much for the freebie! These’ll be perfect for fall!

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  13. June says:

    You are awesome. Thank you for this free pattern.

  14. Awesome pattern. Loving the colour combos too.
    Do you need an over-locker / serger for this? or can I use my regular sewing machine on a stretch stitch?

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  16. gingermakes says:

    Fabulous! You’re so sweet– thanks for sharing this pattern and your great tips!

  17. 3rd Bit FTR says:

    Thanks very much for your pattern. It’s excellent. I’ve made two already – one for me, one for a friend. And I just went out and bought two more pieces of fabric.

  18. Kathy says:

    I just had to say the potato vine you are standing in front of is beautiful! I don’t know where you live but here in L.A. that’s lower ALABAMA (haha) it grows FAST! My vines have just started making the potatoes so that means a early fall, YEAH!! OH and your patterns are precious and I LOVE them–THANK YOU!!

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  26. grtescp says:

    Thanks so much for this pattern, finally got round to making it this morning, first thing with my new serger, and it came together so easily and looks fabulous – now I just need for temperatures to climb so I can wear it!

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  28. shivika says:

    How do you think a heavier knit would work with this pattern. I am looking for a similar silhouette for a sweatshirt-y knit fabric. Thanks!

  29. Amanda says:

    Hi Jen! What lengths of fabric did you use for the color blocked version – 1 yard for the neon and 1/2 for the black? Thanks!

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