Here it is, my tutorial on how to line a jacket using the ‘bagged’ method. This jacket lining method gives the most professional results, requires the least amount of hand sewing and is also the quickest. A triple win in my opinion! If you look through your closet, you’ll find that almost every jacket you own was lined using some variation of this method. This method is really very simple and hopefully you’ll be making jackets right and left now that lining them is so easy! This tutorial is pretty photo heavy, so click the link below to continue to the full post.
Step 1 : Cut out your pieces like normal. Follow the pattern instructions to sew the shell of the jacket together. Do the same for the lining but when attaching the front facing to the lining leave about 2″ unsewn at the bottom edge. Stitch along the sewn edge of the lining securing it to the seam allowance of the facing.
Step 2 : Attach the collar to the neck edge of the jacket. *See note below about this particular collar and a few other notes on this pattern.
Step 3 : With right sides facing, pin and stitch the jacket shell and lining together around the sides and neck leaving the hem loose.
Step 4 : Grade the seam allowance, trim excess from lapel points and clip into the lapel corners.
Step 5 : Understitch the facing from the hem to the breakpoint of the jacket. The breakpoint is the point at which the lapels turn outward.
Step 6 : Align the hems of the shell and the lining and stitch together from one edge to the other. You will notice this will cause some gapping between the edges of the lining and facing, this is what will create the pleat.
Step 7 : Now it’s time to attach the sleeve and lining together. I find it’s helpful to lay the jacket out in an arrangement similar to this to prevent the sleeve linings from becoming twisted during this next step.
Step 8 : Turn the edges of the sleeve lining up about 2″. Insert the cuffed lining into the sleeve matching seams and making sure neither the jacket nor lining is twisted. Stitch the two layers together and repeat for the other side.
Step 9 : Since your jacket is now completely sealed up in this strange configuration you will need to slit an opening in one of the underarm seams. I recommend 8-12″ depending on the size and bulk of your jacket. You could potentially just not sew this part, but by sewing and then re-opening you get a really nice pressed line on which to sew it back up later.
Step 10 : Now to turn the jacket, just start pulling the jacket through the hole in the sleeve you just created until the whole thing is right side out.
Step 11 : This next step is totally optional and just something I like to do to keep the lining from sliding all over at the armholes. Reach in through the hole in the sleeve lining and grab the underarm seams from both the shell and the lining and bring them out through the hole. Chain a length between the two, probably around 1.5″ for a full sized jacket. Repeat with the other arm.
Step 12 : To sew up the hole in the arm, pin the two layers together and stitch as close to the edge as you possibly can.
Step 13 : Press around the outside of the jacket and sleeve hems. When pressing the lapel, start from the hem and roll the seam to the inside of the garment until you hit the breakpoint and then start rolling the hem towards the outside of the garment. This will insure that you won’t be able to see the seam.
Step 14 : You will notice that lining a jacket with this technique creates a little opening where the hem pleat and facing meet. This is simply a result of this technique and you can stitch this closed with no ill consequences.
That’s it, you’re done! Wear your jacket around and revel in how easy that lining was!
* A little note about the collar and pattern. For this tutorial I printed out BurdaStyle’s Jorinde pattern at 60% . I originally thought that the really strange collar on this coat was some sort of style decision but after realized that this blazer collar is really just a traditional notched lapel which was sewn wrong for their sample. The point of telling you this is so that you do not follow this tutorial as a guide to doing a notched collar! The other thing that drove me crazy with this pattern is that the lining is not larger than the shell and has no back pleat. Typically you want the lining larger to allow for movement and prevent tearing. I don’t own a single store bought blazer or jacket (even cheap ones) with a lining that is not larger than the shell and they all include back pleats. Oh well, it’s just a tiny blazer anyway but I wanted to give you a heads up!
Thanks for sharing this! Bookmarking it!
Great tutorial, thanks for posting it. I’ve never been able to figure out what bagging a jacket really was because the instructions people gave never had enough photos or an actual garment being put together.
I feel like people tend to think it’s this crazy complex thing but really it’s very simple! I also HATE instructions with no diagrams, so many words…I start to zone out.
okay, i’m not really sure what you did, because i am still sooo very new at sewing, but for some reason your step-by-step instructions and detailed photos kept me intrigued! i will try this if i ever get THIS advanced in my sewing endeavors. *claps* great job, jen!
this is AWESOME! i did a bagged lining on a little trench coat i made in college but have definitely forgotten all the details. now i’m trying to think if i have any fabric for a blazer in my stash… hmm!
Thanks so much, this is so helpful!
Your generosity is only outshone by your brilliance – AMAZING!
Thankyou for sharing.
Thanks! I have to say, I really enjoy making these tutorials
Great tutorial, and so timely. It did take me a minute to figure out what you meant about the collar, but now think I understand. The burdastyle sample and your sample appear to be missing the collar and lapel joining seam. So is this collar insertion method completely incorrect? Would you sew the under collar to the body and the upper collar to the facing and then sew the outer edges fo the collars together before sewing the lapel and CF edges to their facings? Or is there another situation where this method of inserting a collar that would work?
As far as the proper way to make a notched lapel, this insertion method is almost correct. I’m pretty bored at the SF airport right now so I made a little diagram, hopefully this clarifies a bit.
This is where the steps for a notched collar differ from the steps above, it’s really only 2 steps different.
1. When assembling the collar, only sew the back seam. Grade seam, press, understitch and turn right sides out.
2. Attach the collar to the jacket shell. The way it attaches to the neck edge is the same but you will be pivoting to attach the unfinished edges of the collar to the top of the lapel from the corner to the notch on the lapel.
All the other steps are the same, you will attach the lining in exactly the same way. Notched collars have a bad wrap for being difficult but they’re really easy! I’m hoping to make a blazer this spring so I can do a full tutorial on the notched lapel if I do…it might be a few weeks though. Hopefully this helps?
Yup, that helps a bit. I would love to see a notched collar tutorial though. HAve fun on vacation!
What a cute little jacket! I learned a similar technique last year, but it’s so nice seeing it all laid out here. Your photos are really clear, and your steps are easy to follow. Thanks!
That jacket looks so cute. I’ll be sewing up a little boys jacket later in the year and will have to attempt this method. So thankin you in advance!
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Thanks for sharing us.
Your tutorial is fantastic and the jacket splendid. i love it.
Thanks so much for sharing!
No problem, glad you found it helpful!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I feel like my sewing prayers have been answered. I have always wanted to know how to do this!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!! I was planing to make a jacket for my daughter, the pattern doesn’t include any lining though, will this method still work for me?
Boy your photos are great but it still overwhelms me and I’ve sewn for years, never thought it was easy. I have a coat in my sewing room that needs a new lining and I still don’t want to tackle it. It’s a lot of work.
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Thanks a lot! it was very helpful
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Holy moly! I’ve finally managed to line my winter coat. I absolutely couldn’t figure it out on my own- this is such a good tute! Thanks for your help.
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Thank you for explaining the little gap! I made a blazer for my son for Christmas, and could not figure out what I did wrong at the hem!
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Great tutorial! About to attempt bagging a lining for the first time, so this picture heavy tutorial was exactly what I needed. Thanks.
This is the best tutorial on how to do the cuffs i was really stuck til i saw this, Many thanks.
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Thanks for this terrific tutorial – Quick question: How do you catch stitch your hem to the shell after stitching the shell hem / lining hem seam? Am I missing something or is it not possible to manipulate the hem after everything has been sewn? My brain is having trouble understanding the wrong side and right side scenario after the hem is bagged. Just want to ensure that the hem, without the lining, is attachable to the fashion fabric so that it doesn’t flop around. Thanks so much for any feedback.