Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing
We're now going to attach the facing we made yesterday to the blazer. Start by aligning the center back seams of the blazer and facing with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. From there match the lapel points and pin between them and the center back seam. Next we're going to align the center fronts of the blazer. Rather than pinning the hem point and then pinning between the hem and lapel points as we did in the above step, lay each piece out flat and pin from the lapel point down to the hem point. You don't want to ease at this point of the construction. This is also where, if you're using a fabric with lengthwise stretch, fusing the front of the blazer with a piece of fusible cut from the facing pattern piece wouldn't hurt. Pin around the hem matching the center back and side seams. Stitch around the outside of the blazer with a 1/2" seam allowance. Clip your corners and grade the seam allowance of the facing all the way around the blazer. Press the seam allowance of the hem of the blazer towards the hem facing. You're now going to understitch along the hem facing from one end of the facing to the other. It will be hard to stitch into the corners but just get as close as you can. Next working around the blazer, press the facings to the inside and pin in place. You're now going to stitch along the outside of the blazer to secure the facings. I like to start at the center back so that the back tack ends up in a place people aren't as likely to see. Stitch along the top edge of the facing, pivoting down towards the hem at the point where the hem and front facing meet, then continue around the blazer stitching as close to the edge as you like. I did 1/8" here but if you don't feel comfortable stitching that close try a 1/4" stitching line. The last step you'll need to do for your facing to be completely attached is to tack down the back neckline between the shoulder seams. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch or by stitching in the ditch with your machine, which I did in the second photo above. The last step is up next, finishing the sleeve hems with facings!