• Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining

    Today we’ll be assembling the dopp kit lining, this should all seem a bit familiar from the previous assembly steps, but you’ll breeze through it because no zippers!

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio

    To begin, fold and press under the seam allowance under along the zipper edges of both top lining pieces (piece 14). If you adjusted this amount based on the width of your zipper teeth you’ll need to keep that in mind here.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio

    With right sides facing, pin the lining ends to the top pieces as shown. Sew along the ½″ seam line.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio

    Press the seam allowances down towards the bottom of the bag. Your piece will look like the image above.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio

    Using the same technique we used to assemble the body, attach the front and back panels to the side panel. We graded our seam allowances down to 1/8″ instead of clipping the curve to show you another way to achieve the same end, but you can do whichever you feel more comfortable. To learn more about this method for getting smooth curves, check out this post.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio

    Once our front and back panels were attached we topstitched along the panel seams to match the stitching we did on the outside of the bag. This is completely optional and doesn’t affect the function of the bag at all.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio

    Attach the bottom using the same method as for the shell and you’re finished! Our next step will be attaching the lining to the bag, then we’re nearly finished!

    Patterns used in this tutorial

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Lining | Grainline Studio
  • Last Chance for 20% Off!

    Give Thanks Sale | Grainline Studio

    Just a friendly reminder, today is the last day of the Give Thanks Sale. So if you are still contemplating a purchase, you have until midnight tonight to make your decision!

    Use the code GIVETHANKS2018 at checkout to take 20% off your pattern order at checkout.

    The details on this years Give Thanks Sale are as follows…
    -Sale includes both digital and printed patterns.
    -The sale excludes wholesale orders, gift cards, and the Stowe Bag.
    -Enter the code GIVETHANKS2018 at checkout for 20% off your purchase.
    -The sale ends at 11:59 CST on Monday November, 26th. No exceptions.
    -Make sure you enter the code exactly as written above.
    -We are unable to retroactively apply the discount if you forget to apply it at checkout so don’t forget!

    How to Apply the Discount

    To enter your discount code follow the steps below when you get to the checkout page. Be sure your code applies because we are unable to retroactively apply the discount!

    Give Thanks Sale | Grainline Studio
    1. Click the text link to reveal the coupon box
    2. Type the text GIVETHANKS2018 exactly as written here into the coupon box and press enter (PC) or return (Mac) to apply the code.
    3. Complete the rest of your purchase as usual.

    If you have questions about this process please email us at orders@grainlinestudio.com before placing your order. Thanks!

  • Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body

    In today’s Portside Dopp sew-along post we’ll be assembling the body of the bag using the pieces we made in our previous post.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    First we’ll need to secure the carrying strap to the front panel of the bag, this is the panel with the zipper pocket. The placement doesn’t need to be exact, for this example I placed it half on the green upper fabric and half on the camo lower fabric. Another popular placement, and the one we reference in the instruction booklet is aligning it so the top of the strap hits the seam of the side panel. Anywhere in that general area is fine though.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Align the lower portion of the side panels with the lower portion of the pocket panel with right sides facing. Pin in place.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Now match the notches at the center of each panel and place a pin in that spot.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Now it’s time to align the rest of the seam line. Keep in mind that we are aligning a straight edge with a convex curve so the edges of both pieces will not be the same length. Rather, you will need to match the seam lines of the two pieces – which you should be doing anyway when you sew, but it’s especially important here. If you need help with the theory behind concave & convex curves, check out our post here.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Sew along the seam line of where you just pinned. Check to make sure you don’t have any tucks, and if you do, fix them now.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Bring the strap over to the other side of the center panel and baste it in place even with the side that’s been attached.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Repeat the previous steps to attach the other side of the bag and grade the seam allowances down as shown above. We cut ours in half, then trimmed the center panel down in half again. Then press the seam allowances towards the center panel.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    You can see on my bag since the green wasn’t pressing super crisply, I topstitched through the center panel and seam allowance to get a sharp edge. This is completely optional.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Now flip your bag inside out and make sure the top zipper is open. This is important because we’re about to attach the bottom of the bag!

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Place the bag bottom with the right side facing into the bag. Align and pin the center panel notches.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    You can pin the entire bottom in at this point if you’d like, but I’m going to show you the way that I’ve found works best for me. Start by pinning one long side of the bag from end to end.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Head over to your machine and start at the point where the seam allowances meet at one end and stitch to that point on the other end, marked with a pin in this photo.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Stop with your needle down at this point.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Lift your foot and pivot the bag so that you’re ready to sew along the next edge. Continue on and repeat these steps at each of the 4 corners.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Your bag now looks something like this.

     

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Flip your bag right side out to make sure that you don’t have any tucks before we move onto the next steps. Fixing them will be much harder once we’ve clipped the corners!

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    When you’re free of tucks, clip off the corners of the bag bottom. I do not grade or trim the bottom seam allowances of the bag, since that’s the seam that will get the most stress I like to leave it as is. You will, however, need to press the seam allowances towards the bottom of the bag.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Once your seam allowances are pressed, head over to your machine and topstitch through the bottom of the bag and the seam allowance to keep the seam allowances anchored in place and provide extra strength. I like to do one seam about 1/16 – 1/8″ away from the seam line, then another ¼″ in from that stitching line. I find it easier to get into the corners of the bag around my machine’s free arm then when it’s set into my table.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

    Here you can better see the two lines of stitching. That’s it for the body of the bag, set it aside and next we’ll assemble the lining!

    Patterns used in this tutorial

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio
  • Give Thanks Pattern Sale!

    Give Thanks Sale | Grainline Studio

    It’s that time of year again, where we start looking back on the previous months and planning for the upcoming year. We have a lot to be thankful for around Grainline HQ, but most of all you! We love interacting with each and every one of you who’ve sewn a pattern, commented on a post, emailed us, etc. To show our appreciation we hold one sale a year, which starts today! Use the code GIVETHANKS2018 at checkout to take 20% off your pattern order.

    The details on this years Give Thanks Sale are as follows…
    -Sale includes both digital and printed patterns.
    -The sale excludes wholesale orders, gift cards, and the Stowe Bag.
    -Enter the code GIVETHANKS2018 at checkout for 20% off your purchase.
    -The sale ends at 11:59 CST on Monday November, 26th. No exceptions.
    -Make sure you enter the code exactly as written above.
    -We are unable to retroactively apply the discount if you forget to apply it at checkout so don’t forget!

    How to Apply the Discount

    To enter your discount code follow the steps below when you get to the checkout page. Be sure your code applies because we are unable to retroactively apply the discount!

    Give Thanks Sale | Grainline Studio
    1. Click the text link to reveal the coupon box
    2. Type the text GIVETHANKS2018 exactly as written here into the coupon box and press enter (PC) or return (Mac) to apply the code.
    3. Complete the rest of your purchase as usual.

    If you have questions about this process please email us at orders@grainlinestudio.com before placing your order. Thanks!

    Need Pattern Ideas?

    We released three great new patterns this year, the Yates Coat, the Felix Dress, and the Scout Sleeve Pack and this sale is the first time we’re discounting them! If you’ve had your eye on any of them this year, now’s your first and last time to snag them at a discount until next November!

    Thanks again for supporting this small business, we couldn’t do it without you and we wouldn’t want to do anything else! Happy Thanksgiving to each and every one of you!

  • How to Make a Zipper

    One question we get a fair bit, especially in regards to the Portside Travel Set, is how to make your own zipper. I personally love making zippers because you can pick out exactly what you want in regards to the gauge, metal, type of slider, etc. and also because if I have the supplies on hand I don’t need to order custom zippers and then wait for them to arrive. Instead I can whip up a zip and get started on my project right away! To start, lets talk a bit about the parts of the zipper and what supplies you’ll need to make your own zippers.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio
    The type of zipper we’re going to make in this tutorial is called a non-separating, or closed end, zipper. This means that the zipper is open on one end, the top, and the bottom is permanently closed with a bottom stop that spans the zipper tapes at the other end. You’ll find this type of zipper on pants, dresses, bags, etc. You can also get invisible non-separating zippers but those will have plastic teeth and I’ve never seen parts for purchase to make one of your own before. Lets quickly go over the labeled parts above before we start making our own zipper below.

    • Top / Bottom Tape End: this is the part of the tape above and below the stops at the top and bottom of the zipper.
    • Top Stop: one of two pieces crimped to one side of the zipper just above the last tooth. This stops the zipper slider from sliding off the end of the chain when closing it.
    • Teeth: these are the individual pieces attached to the zipper tape that make up the chain.
    • Slider: the piece of the zipper that moves up and down the teeth to open and close the chain.
    • Pull Tab: the moveable piece attached to the slider that you grab to pull the slider up and down. These come in many different shapes and can be basic or stylized.
    • Tape: the fabric that the zipper teeth are clamped to.
    • Chain: the teeth form the chain when closed with the slider.
    • Bottom Stop: a single piece that spans the two zipper tapes and stops the zipper from going off the end of the tape.
    • Tape Width: refers to the width of the the tape on one side of the zipper only.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    If you’re going to make your own zipper you’ll need a few supplies which I’ve laid out below. I ordered these from ZipperSource.com though there are other places that sell these parts as well.

    • Continuous Chain: this is a large spool of uncut zipper tape with chain. You can choose your metal and chain size here and when you do, note them so you’re sure you’re buying the right size for the rest of the zipper parts.
    • Zipper Slider: you’ll need to make sure your slider size matches your chain size and there are often a variety of pulls to choose from based on your style and need.
    • Top and Bottom Stops: again based on the chain size. Again these are based on chain size but outside of that there isn’t much to choose from aside from color.
    • Pliers: I prefer a needle nose pliers for this but I wouldn’t recommend using your best pair. We’ll be yanking the teeth off the tape so a mediocre pair you have laying around is recommend as this can tend to strip the gripping grooves off the surface of the pliers.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Now that we’ve got our supplies squared away, lets make our zippers! Start by cutting off a length of your continuous chain. You’ll want to either match the length of the piece you’re sewing the zipper to, or make it a bit longer and I highly recommend using a pair of scissors you don’t care about as you’ll need to cut through the metal section.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    To prep the zipper for the bottom stop, pull the two sides of the zipper apart and lay it out so that the raised part of the teeth are facing up, pointing towards the top of the zipper. With a seam gauge, measure up the amount of your seam allowance plus the height of the bottom stop, in this case that equals 5/8″. You’ll need to remove the zipper teeth within this measurement at the bottom of the zipper.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    I’ve found the easiest way to remove the teeth is to grip the tip of the zipper tooth with your pliers and pull the tooth straight off the end of the tape. The higher up you go, the more you’ll need to tug but it’s a pretty easy process.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Once you’ve removed your 5/8″ of zipper teeth from the one end of the tape, you’ll need to repeat this process for the other side. Keep in mind that the zipper teeth are staggered so that they can zip together and close to form the chain so you’ll need to remove one extra tooth from the second side.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    One both sides of the tape have the requisite number of teeth removed you’re going to feed both sides of the tape through the zipper slider. Once you think you have them pretty even give the pull a tug up the teeth. If the chain is uneven at the bottom, you can remove the slider and try again.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    With the slider part-way up the chain it’s time to attach the bottom stop. There are four prongs on the stop which will pierce the zipper tape and fold under to secure the tape in place. Align the bottom stop as shown above and when you have it in the correct position, push down on the stop to force the prongs through the tape.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Here you can see the bottom stop prongs from the underside of the zipper.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Take your pliers and fold each of the prongs over towards the center of the zipper to secure the stop in place.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    We’re now over halfway to your new zipper!

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Now you’ll need to measure the top of the zipper to remove the teeth needed for the seam allowance and top stops. Again we removed 5/8″ worth of teeth from both sides of the top of the zipper.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Now grab two of your top stops, one for each side of the zipper.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    The stops are open really far so I find it easier to position and clamp them down on the tape if they’re slightly more closed. To do this I arrange the stop in my pliers as shown above and give it a little squeeze.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Now align the top stop above the last zipper tooth.

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Clamp down hard on the stop with the base of your needle nose pliers so that the stop is really on there. You definitely don’t wan this coming off!

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio

    Repeat for the other side of the zipper and your zipper is complete. Sew in this zipper as you would any other regular zipper or according to the instructions on your pattern.

    Related Posts

    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio
    How to Make a Zipper | Grainline Studio
  • Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels

    Now that we have everything cut, it’s time to start sewing our Portside Dopp Kits! Today we’ll be assembling the panels that make up the Dopp Kit. We’ll start with the top panel, then move onto the sides, then end with the carrying strap. Let’s get started!

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Begin by folding and pressing down the ½″ seam allowance the long zipper edge on each of the top pieces (14). Align one of the folded edges along the zipper tape about 1/16 – 1/8″ from the zipper teeth. You’ll want to note that when both top pieces are attached the space for the zipper should measure about ¼″ across. Depending on the size of your zipper tape and coil you may need to slightly adjust the amount of seam allowance you fold under.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Sew along the edge of the fabric to anchor the top to the zipper tape. Repeat for the other side so both top pieces are attached to the zipper.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    With the rights facing, pin one end piece (13) to each side of the top piece you just made as shown above. I like to have the zipper part way open so that you aren’t dealing with the pull getting in the way at either end.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Using your ½″ seam allowance stitch the ends to the top. You may want to hand wheel your machine over the zipper area to ensure you don’t hit anything and break a needle!

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Here you can see the underside of what we just sewed.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Press the seam allowance and the ends away from the zipper. Since I’m using a fabric that doesn’t want to press (the green fabric) I’ll be topstitching along my seams. Even though the camo fabric pressed nicely I topstitched along these seams to keep things consistent when we get to later steps. This topstitching step is completely optional.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Again, here you can see the underside of what you have sewn so far. Set this piece aside.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Now we’re going to create the front pocket of the Dopp Kit. Grab the upper front (piece 10) and fold the lower edge up along the notches so that the wrong sides meet where folded.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Align your zipper tape with the raw edge you just folded up, centering the two zipper stops equal distance from the edges.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Stitch along the edge of the zipper tape through all layers.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Fold the ½″ seam allowance at the top edge of one lower front. In most cases it would be the non-interfaced lower front, but I fused both of ours since the camo twill was a bit thinner than the green twill.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Align the folded edge with the lower edge of the zipper tape, making sure the edges of the lower piece match the edges of the upper piece, and pin in place.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Sew along the folded edge to secure the lower front to the zipper.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Take the front you just made and lay it on top of the the full dopp kit front (piece 9) with the right sides of both pieces facing up as shown above.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Pin the two pieces together and stitch along the perimeter inside the ½″ seam allowance. Set this piece aside.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Now we’ll be assembling the back side of the Dopp, no zippers so this one is easy! To begin, pin the upper back (11) to the lower back (12) with right sides facing.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Stitch the two layers together using your ½″ seam allowance.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Grade the seam allowance of the lower back.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Press the seam allowance towards the bottom of the bag and optionally topstitch along the seam line.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Now we’ll make the carrying strap. Start by folding the long sides of the strap together with right sides facing and pin.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Stitch using the same ½″ seam allowance and grade one of the seam allowances.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Turn the strap right side out.

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio

    Press the strap and stitch along the long edges to keep the strap flat when it’s attached to the bag.

     

    That’s it for this post, all the pieces of the bag are assembled and we’re ready to start forming the bag. Our next post will be how to create your own zipper since that’s a question we get asked a lot in regards to the Portside Travel Set so stay tuned for that.

    Patterns used in this tutorial

    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio
    Portside Dopp Kit: Assembling the Side Panels | Grainline Studio