Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves

Alright, if you’re putting sleeves on your Felix Dress, today is for you! If not, just sit back and wait for our next post. The instructions in the pattern booklet show the 3/4 length sleeve so for the sew-along I’ll be demonstrating on the flutter sleeve. Both sleeves are inserted exactly the same no matter the shape though.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

To begin, line up the armholes of the self and lining matching the side and shoulder seams and notches. Sew the two layers together inside the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Take your sleeves and fold the underarm seams together with the right sides of the fabric facing. Make sure that you’re making two different sleeves, you can see above that I have two opposite sleeves.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Sew the underarm seams and finish the seam allowance as desired. We serged ours as we’ve done for the rest of the finishing on our dress.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowances towards the back of the garment.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Place a double line of basting stitched around the sleeve cap starting at the single front notch, traveling up through the top shoulder notch, down to the back double notches. Leave thread tails to ensure you have something to pull on to gather the caps slightly.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Start with your sleeve right side out and your dress inside out. Place the sleeve inside the armhole so that the right sides of the sleeve and dress are facing each other. Pin around the armhole matching underarm seams and notches. Pull on the thread tails to fit the sleeve cap into place.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Sew around the armhole at 1/2″ attaching the sleeve in place.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Finish your seam allowance as desired, we serged ours as we’ve been doing throughout the dress.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Repeat these steps for the other sleeve. You can lightly press the seam allowance towards the sleeve, I usually finger press mine over once the sleeves are hemmed so as not to flatten the sleeve cap too much.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

To hem, you’ll simply press 1/4″ up twice and stitch in place. One thing I like to do with a thin fabric like this is to reduce bulk along the hem. You can see here you’d have three layers of serged seam allowance sitting on top of each other. To avoid this I trim out the seam allowance below the two folds. You’ll find it’s much smoother for the next step.

 

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the edge of the hem anchoring it in place and repeat for the other sleeve.

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

And that’s it for your sleeves! If you have any questions as always, let us know in the comments below. Thanks so much for following along so far!

Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline StudioFelix Sew-Along: Sleeves | Grainline Studio

2 replies on “Felix Sew-Along: Sleeves

  • Marit

    Hi Jennifer, thank you for putting so much effort in this sew-along. I saw, that you sewed twice around the armhole to attach the sleeve. I dont remember reading this advice in one of your pattern instructions nor here. Do do this all the time? Do you do this for more strength seams? Just curious.
    Marit

    Reply
    • Jen

      I only sewed once, I think what you might be seeing is the stitching line from when I anchored the two layers of the bodice together. Everything was sewn the same way as described here and in the pattern instructions!

      Reply

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