Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband

Today we’ll be attaching the neckband to the bodice. This is a bit of a non-standard procedure but it produces a completely clean finish and might make you feel like a bit of a sewing magician in the process! I won’t show you how to construct the bodice unlined since we’re sticking pretty close to the intended instructions, as we do for all of our sew alongs. If you’d like to make the bodice unlined, it helps to think of the neckband as more of a facing. So with that, let’s dive in!

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Lay your self bodice out so that with the right side facing up as shown above. Place the neckband over top of it with the outside facing down. Pin from the angled end, through the shoulder and center back, over to the other shoulder seam.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

You can see in this closeup that the inside of the neckband (the side with the understitching) is facing up.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Sew the neckband and bodice together within the 1/2″ seam allowance along the area you had pinned. We sewed ours at 3/8″.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Clip the neckline of the bodice to, but not through the seam line along the center back neck between the shoulder seams.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Your bodice now looks like this from the wrong side.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Lay the bodice out so that the wrong side of the self fabric is facing down and the neckband is facing up. Place the bodice lining over top with the right side facing down. Align the angled end, the shoulder seams, and the center back. Stitch along the 1/2″ seam line through both layers of the bodice and the neckband. Backtack at the shoulder.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance as shown above. The lining will be graded to the shortest width, followed by the seam allowance of the neckband.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Press the lining away from the neckband from the angled edge up to about the intersection of the underarm and side seam. Then press the self bodice away from the neckband to the same point at the underarm.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Align the angled edges of the self and lining and sew them together within the seam allowance, approximately 1/4 – 3/8″.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Flip your bodice so that the right side is facing up and bring the loose end of the neckband down as shown above.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

We’ll be attaching the un-sewn section of the neckband to the angled edge now.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Bring the right side of the top layer of the neckband over to align with the angled edge of the bodice. You’ll want the top notch of the neckband to sit right at the neckline edge.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Bring the other side of the neckband around to the lining side of the bodice as shown above.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Here we’ve flipped the bodice over so that the lining is facing up and aligned the inside edge of the neckband with what we pinned on the front.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Stitch through both layers of the neckband and the bodice to anchor the neckband in place.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

This is what you’ll be looking at from the right side after it’s sewn.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance by trimming as shown above.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Press both sides of the neckband away from the left front bodice. Pin the loose edges of the neckband together and stitch inside the seam line (approx. 3/8″) to anchor the two layers together.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Flip the right bodice self over top of the neckband and align the edges. Sew the right bodice self and neckband together just inside the 1/2″ seam allowance from the point where you stopped stitching previously, down to the waistline edge.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Flip the bodice over and align the right bodice lining in the same manner. Stitch along the 1/2″ seam line from the shoulder seam where you previously stopped stitching, down to the center front waistline. You have now attached the right front to the neckline.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance of the remainder of the neckline as you did previously with the lining as the shortest layer, followed by the neck band.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

Finally, press the remainder of the self and lining away from the neckband. You’ve now attached your neckband and the hardest part of the entire dress is over. Well done!! If you have questions let me know below.

Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline StudioFelix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband | Grainline Studio

4 replies on “Felix Sew-Along: Attaching the Neckband

  • Eowyn

    Hi, Jen! I’m actually caught up with one of your sew-a-longs in real time and feeling quite proud of myself! Thanks so much for putting these together.

    I am curious about the technique of attaching the neckband first to the bodice and then to the lining. Is this so that you have more control and aren’t sewing through so many layers at once? I’m always intrigued by the why of construction techniques and am self-taught, so having the chance to ask the designer is a real luxury!

    Thank you –

    Reply
    • Jen

      Yep, you’re correct! When you’re sewing two layers you have more control, but adding a third between the two and you do lose some ability to control that inner layer. In school we were always taught ‘only 2 active layers at once’ when constructing. Of course there are exceptions to every rule but in a case like this where you want everything to lay smoothly around the neck adhering to the rules is not a bad idea at all!

      Reply

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