Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding

Today we’ll be discussing how to apply bias facings to the armholes of your Uniform Tunic. I’ll be showing this technique on view A since that’s what we’ve illustrated in the book, but the bias facing pattern pieces can be applied to either view without trouble.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding

To begin, sew each armhole strip into a circle by matching the short edges with right sides facing and stitching along the seam line using a ¼” seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Pin the bias facing to the armhole with the right sides facing.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the armhole using a ¼” seam allowance.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance by cutting the allowance of the bias facing in half. Then clip around the armhole to, but not through, the stitching line every ½ – ¾”.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio
Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Press both the seam allowance and bias facing away from the bodice. Understitch by stitching a line approximately 1/8″ from the seam line through both the bias facing and seam allowances.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Press both the seam allowance and bias facing away from the bodice. Understitch by stitching a line approximately 1/8″ from the seam line through both the bias facing and seam allowances.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Fold the raw edge under around the entire armhole to create the finished edge of the bias facing.

Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the edge you just folded under at approxmiately 1/8″ to finish the bias facing and anchor it in place. Give your armhole a press and repeat for the other side.

If you need further assistance with your bias facing, check out our super in-depth tutorial here on getting flat bias facings. The tutorial shows a neckline but they’re done in the same manner as a facing.

Next up sleeves, we’re almost finished!

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Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding

2 replies on “Uniform Sew-Along: Armhole Binding

  • Aileen

    I skipped ahead, and just finished my tunic. I’m looking forward to your post about finishing the neckline. I struggled there, especially getting a professional look to the stitches that sew the facing to the garment.

    Reply
    • Jen

      I think the most important thing for that step is making sure your machine’s tension is spot on, especially since you’re sewing from the wrong side so the bobbin thread becomes the top when the garment is right side out. If you have any specific q’s just let me know!

      Reply

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