In our last post we assembled the linings, today we’ll be attaching our facings which is the last step before bagging our lining!
We’ll be starting with the hem facing today. Align the front hem facings with the back hem facing with right sides together and matching your notches. Stitch the side seams using your ½” seam allowance.
Press your seam allowances open and grade. In this example we stitched the seam allowances down 1/8″ away from the seam line because our graded seam allowances didn’t want to stay flat. This is completely optional and dependent on the fabric you’ve chosen for your coat.
Here’s a view of the right side of the facing if you do decide you need to topstitch.
Once your hem facing is assembled it’s time to attach it to the hem of the coat. Place the facing with the right side facing the shell matching the center back hem notches and side seams. The front edges of the facings will hit at the hem notch on the front coat pieces. Pin in place.
Stitch from one end of the facing to another and grade the seam allowance of the facing.
Press the facing down towards the hem of the coat.
Understitch along the edge of the facing through all layers of the facing and seam allowance. Now we’ll apply the sleeve facings.
Pin the edges of each sleeve facing to create a circle and sew along the seam line.
Press the seam allowances open and grade. You can optionally stitch the seam allowances down as we did for the hem facing and as shown above.
With right sides facing slide the facing onto the end of the sleeve. The narrower part of the sleeve facing will align with the hem edge of the sleeve and the seam allowance of the sleeve facing will align with the back sleeve seam.
Stitch around the seam line and grade the seam allowance of the facing.
Press the facing and seam allowance down towards the hem. Understitch along the seam line through the facing and both seam allowances.
The outer shell of your coat now looks like this. Our next step will be lining our coats, so if you have any questions before that next post, let us know in the comments below!