Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining

Today we’ll be assembling the lining. If you missed any of our previous Yates Sew-Along posts you can find them here, otherwise let’s dive in!

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

To begin, align the center back seam of your back pieces with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Stitch along the seam line from top to bottom.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Press your seam allowances open.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

With the right side facing up, bring both pleat notches in to the center back seam to create your pleat. Pin in place.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Stitch the pleat in place within the ½” seam allowance so that your stitching doesn’t show when we attach the back neck facing.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

This is what your pleat will look like from the wrong side.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll sew the back neck facing to the back lining. I start by pinning the center of the facing to the center of the lining.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Next I like to pin the edges, that way you can be sure everything is properly aligned.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Now pin between the centers and edges. Keep in mind that you’re attaching a convex and concave curve together so the cut lines of the two pieces will not match up. Don’t worry about that and make sure you’re aligning the stitching lines of each piece. Those will align without trouble. If you need more help understanding convex and concave curves, see our post on the topic here.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Once you have the facing and lining pinned, stitch around the seam line. Grade and clip the seam allowance of the lining, leaving the seam allowance of the facing as is.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Press the lining and seam allowances down towards the hem of the lining. Edgestitch the lining in place as shown above.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll assemble the fronts of our lining one side at a time. Start by locating a front lining and front facing piece, as shown above.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline StudioAlign the center seam of the two pieces, easing between the two notches where the pieces bend. Again this is a convex and concave curve joining so you’ll want to employ the same technique as shown in the back neck facing. You’ll also notice one blue pin above at the lower notch of the pieces. That marks where you’ll stop stitching. Once everything is pinned, stitch from shoulder down to the pin placed at the notch.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

The area below the notch will remain un-sewn as shown above.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Press your seam allowances open.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Edgestitch along the seam line to on the self side of the seam through both the main piece and the seam allowance. That will keep your seam allowance flat and anchored as you wear your coat. Repeat these steps for the other side of the front lining.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

We’ll now attach our fronts and back at the side and shoulder seams. Starting with one side pin the side and shoulder seams, matching the intersection of the facing and lining along the shoulder. Stitch these seams.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

Press both seam allowances open as shown above. Repeat for the other side of the lining.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

You now have a lining that looks like this!

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

We’ll now need to assemble and set the sleeves. To do this, follow the same instructions as you did for the outer coat sleeves, but using the lining pieces instead. You can find that detailed post here: Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Sleeves.

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

That’s it for the lining! Next up we’ll be assembling and attaching the facings. If you have any questions just let us know in the comments below!

Patterns used in this tutorial

Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline StudioYates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining | Grainline Studio

3 replies on “Yates Sew-Along: Sewing the Lining

  • D

    Jen, I love your tutorials! As usual, very clear instructions. Thank you!

    I couldn’t figure out this one line ‘You’ll also notice one blue pin above at the lower notch of the pieces.’ Maybe pointing an arrow in visible color towards that lower notch would help in that image and the image below so it is easy to visualize.

    I can’t wait to see how you attach the lining to the coat!

    Reply

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