Farrow Sew-Along: Assembling the Dress Front

Today we’ll be forming the front of the Farrow. This is essentially the same steps as the back of the dress, but we’re adding a few steps to form those front pockets. If you’re using a relatively stable fabric or aren’t worried about stretching you can skip these first steps. If, like us, you’re using something that will tend to stretch on the bias like silk or rayon, you will likely want to take these extra precautions.

To begin we’re going to fuse the angled seam lines like we did for the back of the dress. Again cut 2 strips of woven interfacing 1″ wide. Fuse one along the top angled edge, and one along the pocket marking line as shown above.

Align the bodice front and skirt front along the angled seam with right sides facing as shown above.

Stitch along the seam line and finish the seam allowance if desired. Do not press this seam.

Align the edges of the pocket segment and baste the two layers together. This will help keep things in place while you stitch in your pockets.

Using chalk and a ruler, draw in the pocket placement lines marked on your pattern. This will help you stitch straighter lines than if you just marked the points.

I like to pop a few pins in at this point because you’ve got a lot of fabric going into your machine.

Stitch along the pocket placement lines as directed. It was so hard to get a photo of this step so I’ve traced them in over top in Illustrator for you to see.

If you flip the piece over so that the skirt is facing up, this is what it should look like.

Fold the pocket and skirt down towards the hem and press across the seam line. Baste all layers together at the center front and side seam. Repeat for the other side. Finish the two center front seams as you did for the back of the dress.

You can see above that I’ve topstitched along the pocket seam allowance, stopping where the pocket opening begins. To avoid having a stitching line that just stops and starts, and to provide extra strength because in structured fabrics like this I use my Farrow pockets all the time, I place a small bar tack from the stitching line to the seam line. I am not topstitching on the rayon sew-along dress.

Align the center fronts with right sides facing and stitch along the length of the front.

Press the center front seam open.

And that’s that for assembling the front of your Farrow! Next up we sew the fronts and backs together.

Patterns used in this tutorial

Farrow Sew-Along: Assembling the Dress Front | Grainline StudioFarrow Sew-Along: Assembling the Dress Front | Grainline Studio

12 replies on “Farrow Sew-Along: Assembling the Dress Front

  • justina

    I’ve downloaded this pattern and can’t wait to try it! I haven’t got a serger and wonder if you have any suggestions for how to finish the seams without resorting to the zigzag stitch? (French? Hong Kong seams? Some combination of the two?) Thank you so much for sharing such thorough directions. <3

  • HW

    Where do you find your black woven interfacing? Maybe I can’t read but I just finished my first Farrow and used rayon and did not know about this…

  • Paula Elliott

    oh lordie. I’m new at sewing and I’m having a hard time with these pockets. I thought I had the whole thing figured out, but at the end of the project, the front side seam was waaay too short for the back side seam. Pretty sure I messed up on the pockets. gah.

  • sue

    I’ve serged the diagonal seams and the entire seam ruffled. the ruffling shows at the front no matter how hard i pressed it.
    Is there anything i can do to fix the problem?

    • Jen

      It sounds like you need to adjust your machine’s differential feed; instructions to do so should be in the manual that came with your machine. As for a fix after the fact, I’d recommend taking the serging out and see if you can steam the fabric back into shape. If not you may need to notch the seam allowance to get it to lay flat again.


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