Introducing the Tamarack Jacket

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

I think some of you may have had an idea that this was coming, but today we’re excited to unveil the newest Grainline Studio pattern, the Tamarack Jacket! I’m personally really excited about this jacket – I wore the version with wool batting nonstop when I was in Berlin and loved it, and this past week the cotton version (pictured above) has been my every day go to jacket.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

cotton-linen shell / wool batting

The Tamarack Jacket pattern comes with instructions for the two quilting designs shown here, horizontal lines and a diamond pattern, though there is plenty of room for customization with your own quilting pattern. We highly recommend taking the time to quilt a test piece of fabric large enough that you can see how the fabric and batting will react to the design. Wool batting is much loftier than cotton which will result in a more puffy coat. We found that wool batting lent itself to lines further spaced apart that allowed the batting to puff as it wanted.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

cotton chambray shell / cotton batting

Cotton batting is much more dense than the wool batting making it significantly less puffy. The flatter nature of the cotton batting lends itself to more intricate quilting patterns which may get lost in the puff of the wool. I definitely felt like I had much more opportunity for creative quilting on my samples with cotton batting whereas with wool it seemed like anything more than simple lines were getting lost amongst the puff of the batting.

I strongly recommend purchasing high quality quilt batting as well as pre-washing your fabric before you start quilting this jacket. Most high quality quilt batting will resist shrinkage when washing which makes the higher price tag worth it for me. Since you’re sewing more than one type of fiber together into this jacket, you’ll want to reduce any chance of shrinkage as much as possible. There’s no guarantee the shell and batting if given the chance to shrink, would shrink at the same rate – in fact, they will almost certainly shrink at different rates.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

Now let’s talk about the design features of the Tamarack! First off, it was drafted with fall sweater wearing in mind. The dropped shoulders and armholes allow for the often bulky arms of sweaters to fit nicely without bunching, while still maintaining a slim fit through the sleeves.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

The Tamarack is finished with bias binding and uses a really smart corner technique borrowed from quilting that I think you’ll enjoy. Finishing the jacket with binding cuts down on both time and bulk – since the quilting of the jacket takes the longest we wanted to make sure the construction of the actual coat was straightforward and easy. I also like the way binding looks better than sewing the coat wrong sides out and flipping it. It can be hard to press perfectly along the seam line so using binding just keeps everything nice and neat.

The jacket closes with coat weight hooks & eyes applied to the wrong side of the jacket. We really liked the streamlined silhouette this provided.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

The welt pockets are another part I find quite nice. The opening of the pocket is perfectly sized for your hand but the interior pocket is quite roomy allowing plenty of room for a smart phone, keys, etc. I hate when pockets don’t fit my phone and keys since they rarely make it to my bag so this was a must.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

We also walk you step by step through the insertion of the welt pockets in detail so if you haven’t sewn this type of pocket before have no fear, we’ve got you covered. Welt pockets are a lot easier than you think, I promise, but if you’re worried, you can always make the coat without them or add your own patch pockets.

That’s it for now, you can check out the Tamarack Jacket over in the shop. I’ll be wearing mine at Camp Workroom Social this weekend!

34 replies on “Introducing the Tamarack Jacket

  • Hilary

    Really like this jacket! It doesn’t look as if there is any front closure. I think I might try adding something like a zipper. Have you tried that?

    Reply
    • Jen

      It closes with coat weight hooks & eyes…I’ll add that to the post. No zipper as it got too complicated with the fact that you can’t sandwich it between the coat & lining since they’re quilted together.

      Reply
    • marijka

      I’m definitely a zipper lover, too – in fact, a two-way zipper since I generally like to open coats and jackets up to my waist for driving. I’ve made an unlined quilted car coat similar to this and added a zipper with the tape on the wrong side of the coat as usual, but then covered the edge of the zipper tape by topstitching a narrow grosgrain in a contrasting color for fun – and the additional vertical stitching just added to the quilting on the right side! But you could also just stitch the zipper on the right side and do the same – cover or enhance the zipper tape with a trim, beads, or something funky – then maybe carry that over to the welt pockets or sleeve edge, too. And it wouldn’t have to be contrast or loud – maybe tonal like blues on blue, wouldn’t that be lush? Anyway, getting myself all excited and this looks like a well-fitting pattern with great details, so I’m going to try one fast! 🙂

      Reply
    • Jen

      Just PDF on this one. We had a few free minutes since our next pattern is lined up and ready to roll, so we figured we’d do this one just as a quick PDF. It’s only 3 body pieces and 3 pocket pieces so it’s not too bad on printing.

      Reply
  • Pootle and Make

    So practical but stylish too. Absolutely love this, can’t wait to get my hands on the pattern. I used to have a little Chinese quilted jacket albeit a floral one when I was little. This is so right for now. It’s turned chilly in the UK.

    Reply
    • marijka

      Thank you – I couldn’t place what it reminded me of! I used to love those little jackets, but was always too busty too wear them, even as a teen. I might have to try one in a pretty sari silk to wear with jeans. This is becoming a very dangerous page…

      Reply
  • wardrobeecology

    Wow this looks so wonderful! Classic Grainline pattern release… admired from afar but thought I wouldn’t want it right away, and now I can’t imagine getting through fall without it! Quick question on batting… I’d like to use wool batting and I see that it calls for “Twin size” (72 x 90″) — any idea how much it would require for by the yard batting? I visited a wool mill near me last weekend and would really love to buy batting from them, just need to figure out how much to ask for.

    Thanks so much!

    Reply
  • napagal.clare

    I love it. So many possiblities. I could even see it as a sleeveless vest. Going to download it when I’m not running out the door.

    Reply
  • Nina

    I’ve been watching the Great British Bake Off and admiring Mary Berry’s impressive wardrobe of quilted jackets, so this is very appealing! One question: are there bust darts? An early sketch you shared appeared to have them, and for me (and marijka who commented above, I guess…) they’d be essential – that or princess seams as I’ve seen on RTW quilted jackets.

    Reply
  • sallie

    This is a pattern I never EVER thought I would be so infatuated with!! I love it! It’s still 90 degrees here so thinking about quilted jackets feels a bit insane, but it’s gonna get cold eventually!

    Reply
  • gilliancrafts

    You turned this out so quickly! Seems like just a month ago you were pinning jackets like this, and suddenly, boom, pattern! (And suddenly, boom, I want one!) 😉

    Reply
  • Cindy

    You said good quality cotton batting, which I so getting putting all the in on sewing the quilting patterning, I have started to do online searchingscfor batting see a lot but just sure which ones would be considted good quality.
    I am not a quilter so Inam clueless about batting but I want to get the right kind and do not mind paying extra for it.
    Could you possibly give some suggestions of brands or what to look for – which is kinda of hard to do online -and lastly places where we can find it online.
    It would be grear appreciated.

    Reply
  • Shannon

    I love this pattern! Any tips on how to grade this pattern for an extreme pear-shape (12 inch difference between waist and hips)?

    Reply
  • Liz M. (@abirthdaypony)

    Hey Jen, can I just say I am SO EXCITED for this pattern! I was about to draft something similar for myself and you just saved me from hours and hours of work!

    I had a quick question – I’m thinking of making this up in a double-gauze cotton with wool batting. Do you think that will end up being too many layers of fabric for a regular home sewing machine? (No walking foot over here, unfortunately.)

    Reply
  • katy

    I can’t wait to make this. I used to have a quilted silk jacket that I got in hong Kong that was the lightest and warmest thing. I would just pet it all day long. I’m going to try and recreate that.

    Reply
  • Lodi Srygley

    I’ve never downloaded a pattern before (yikes!) 1). How many pages is this? 2). It seems like some people avoid PDF patterns like the plague, should I be intimidated?

    Reply
  • Kim

    Hiya! Is like to use this pattern with wool coating, and possibly a mid-weight sweatshirt material as the batting and lining. Any thoughts on how this would work out? Would love insight. Thanks in advance!!

    Reply
    • Jen

      I haven’t tried it personally, though I have the materials for a similar configuration I just haven’t had time to cut out. In my head it would work, but you’ll definitely want to use a walking foot due to the potential for stretching with the knit. You’ll also want to have the jacket dry cleaned because of the wool. Hope that helps a bit.

      Reply

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