Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Okay time for the exciting part, are you guys ready to put in your collars? We’re going to both assemble the collars and attach it today, it seemed easier and less confusing than splitting it into two posts. This is a pretty long post, 20 images and 2 videos, so I hope I’ve covered everything in enough detail so that you’re able to follow the steps easily and without much confusion. As usual let me know if you have questions and try not to laugh at the sound of my stuffy nosed child voice. Click below to follow along!

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Sew the two undercollar pieces together with right sides facing. Press seam open.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Pin the undercollar and collar together with right sides facing and stitch around the outer three edges of the collar. To get a sharp point I follow this technique I wrote about in my Perfect Points Tips & Tricks post. You’ll see my collar point two photos down using this technique.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Grade the seam allowance and clip the corners as shown above.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Now turn your collar right side out and press. You’re going to want to make sure the seam rolls to the underside of the collar as shown in the second photo so that you can’t see it.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Place a line of stitching within the seam allowance of the open edge of the collar and topstitch around the outer edges of the collar. Next up is the collar stand.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

With right sides facing, pin the un-interfaced collar stand to the underside of the collar and stitch the two together within the seam allowance.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Pin and stitch the interfaced collar stand to the top of the collar with right sides facing.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Grade seam as shown. I don’t clip my curves on things like this, I find that you get a better and smoother curve if you just trim close to the curve. It’s the same principal I described in my Smooth Collar Curves Tips & Tricks post.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Press the collar stand down away from the collar.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Now it’s time to attach the collar to the shirt. For the first step here you’re going to pin the undercollar stand to the neck edge of the shirt from end to end with right sides facing. You may find it easier to do this by clipping the neck edge a bit.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Stitch through these two layers from one end of the neckline to the other. I find that if you are careful not to catch the seam allowances in your stitching line you’ll get a smoother turn in the following steps. Now here’s the semi-confusing part, I figured I’d make videos for the next two steps since it was easier to show this way than with photos.  Attaching a Collar Pt. 1 from grainline on Vimeo.

Attaching a Collar Pt. 2 from grainline on Vimeo.

Now you’ve got that all attached, here’s what’s next…

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Turn the shirt wrong side up and fold under the collar stand seam allowance. You can either slip stitch this in place or do the technique I’ve talked about a million times so far where you fold the facing under and topstitch it in place.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

Topstitch around the collar stand.

Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

That’s it, your collar is now attached and it’s only downhill to the finish from here. Just the cuffs, hem and buttons & buttonholes left. Almost there!

42 replies on “Archer Sew Along | Day 12 | Assembling & Attaching the Collar

  • christine

    oh wow, this is perfect, I’ve been a little scared of that collar. So far I’ve only cut out the pieces, but I hope I’ll have time to start sewing soon. Looking forward to trying this out! Mine will be in navy/ white gingham.

    Reply
  • lloubb

    oh wow step 18 is trickkkaaay! pretty decent for my first time doing a collar but by now means perfect. making view B, already wanting to make another one with view A to improve!

    Reply
  • Katie

    This is the step I’m on, but I forget to cut off the thick amount of one of my shirt fronts! Ah!!!! No wonder I’m having trouble inserting my collar. Duh! You totally had that clearly written in the cutting out section, I just missed it.

    Reply
  • Kathleen

    IMHO, the collar and collar stand are the hardest part to get looking clean and professional. I followed your instructions to the letter, and I’m thrilled with the result…. No icky, lumpy bit where the stand joins the button band, perfect collar points, and very, very smooth, even, and matching curves on the collar stand fronts. And it’s a lovely, just right shape and size too.

    Reply
  • Janet

    Diana, I am wishing you wore your new collar to church!
    Well, I have pinned my collar on to the shirt (no stand), matching the notches, but the shirt side is bigger than the collar side, and I thought it was supposed to be the other way ’round. Does anyone know what gives?

    Reply
  • Tabitha

    You’re instructions are the best I’ve seen. I have a question though (I have done sewing for a few decades so please forgive a potential dumb question). In your videos you sew the collar stand around the corner then parallel to the top for a couple of inches. The pattern doesn’t say to do this step so I’m wondering what are the implications of not doing it.

    Reply
  • Helene

    Brilliant instructions Jen! I’ve just sewn the BEST collar I’ve ever done! Sit’s perfectly, and the collar stand is all neat and in line, that’s the bit that always brought me undone in my shirt-making. Thanks! x

    Reply
  • karunaverma

    I have been sewing many more garments but in a shirt sewing faces problems .
    After viewing this video very enjoying to make shirt collar .
    Many many thanks.

    Reply
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  • Karen U

    I am making view B and my collar/stand is shorter than the neck opening.:( I don’t know what I did wrong – this is my practice blouse so I’m not crazy upset, but I can’t figure out what went wrong. It’s too short by about 1.25″. Any ideas?

    Reply
    • Jen

      Hmm, I don’t have any ideas on that…you cut the collar stand on the fold correct and are sewing it on right side round? If you want to email me a photo I might be able to better tell what’s going on.

      Reply
      • Karen U

        Hi Jen, I redrew the pattern on tissue paper for the front and back pieces – I had originally tried to modify the pattern for the vast differences in my body measurements. I realized I transferred the pattern for a size 2 neck opening and a size 12 for the shoulder/armhole/side seams. The collar and collar stands were definitely cut on the fold for a size 12. I redrew the pattern for a size 12 all the way around and will cut a full size collar stand out of tissue paper to make sure it fits my new shirt in progress (I’m crazy and working with a plaid flannel!). For sizing purposes, I measure a 12 at the bust, 8/10 at the waist and a 2 at the hips. I think I will alter the shirt after it’s sewn up instead of messing with the pattern. Thoughts?

        Reply
  • Kieran

    Jen, I am in the middle of making my third Archer. For the first one, I got brave beyond my abilities and rushed ahead of the sewalong, and mucked the collar stand up horrifically (lots of hand sewing, lots of swearing, pretty crappy collar stand). For the second, I remembered about the sewalong for the yoke method, but forgot that other info was put up after I stopped following. Cue: hand sewing, swearing, horrific collar stand. THIS TIME I remembered and oh my giddy aunt, I have just made the BEST collar stand. I didn’t even know that I COULD make one that well! Considering that my other Archers get worn weekly despite my shame about how horrific those collar stands were, I think this one will get a LOT of wear. And I think a fourth Archer might be in my very near future. Thankyou!

    Reply
  • rg

    Forgive me but you said “You can either slip stitch this in place or do the technique I’ve talked about a million times so far where you fold the facing under and topstitch it in place.” and I am searching through your excellent tutorials and can’t find any of the million times… 🙁

    Reply
    • Jen

      It’s the same technique you use to seal the front button band and sleeve cuffs in the Archer sew along. You fold the facing under so that it just covers the stitching, pin in place, then stitch around the collar stand from the front. Since you’re stitching inside the edge of the piece and you’ve folded the underside to touch the stitching that hits the end of the piece you’ll seal the collarstand and catch the facing.

      Reply
  • Tania

    Hi Jen,

    I need to ask, why is your digital booklet instruction STEP 14A is different from your sew-along step in attaching the interfaced collar stand to under collar?

    Is there any significant difference in the final result?

    Thanks.

    Reply
    • Jen

      Follow the instructions in the booklet, apparently I sewed it to the wrong side in the sew along. It’s not going to make too much of a difference either way though.

      Reply
    • Kathleen

      I also followed the sewalong. I noticed the difference when I made the Alder recently To clarify, the correct collar stand assembly should have the interfaced collar stand on the inside of the neck?

      Reply
      • Jen

        No, the interfaced collar stand should be attached to the underside of the collar as in the instructions in the Alder & Archer booklets and the Alder sew along. I’ll be changing the Archer sew along shortly to fix this error.

        Reply
  • Lynn

    Hi, Jen – I am following both the sewalong and the booklet (recent PDF download) and I am unclear which pieces of the collar need to be interfaced? Would you clarify that for me? Thanks!

    Reply
  • Kadine

    OMG Thnk You so much for this tutorial may the sewing Gods bless you …this help me so much ..I was going out of my mind always trying to line up the corner of the stand ..
    Thank You

    Reply
  • Fernanda Argoud

    Hi, Jen, I´m Fernanda, a mother of 2 dd´s, from Brazil.
    They are crazy about costumes, animes, and I see myself crazy too, trying to sew those complicated clothes.
    THANK YOU, so much for sharing!!! 🙂
    May The Good Lord always bless you, your family, and your work!!! <3 🙂

    Reply

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