Pattern Errata

Moss Skirt Updated Cutting Layouts

Hey guys! So over the time that the Moss skirt has been out I’ve received sporadic emails saying that there’s a drafting error in the waistband pattern. Over this time I’ve sewn up 30 additional skirts (3 of each size) beyond the original 10 that I made before the pattern was published and never had a problem. I also had my intern sew some up because if more than one person was having a problem, there’s something going on, and I wasn’t catching it. She had the same results as me and approx. 50 skirts in we were stumped so I kept thinking what could be going wrong. Well I think I figured it out this past weekend when working on the updated file and verified with someone who recently emailed me about this problem. What I believe is going on is that the cutting diagram is misleading in the pattern. The waistband should be cut flat and not on the fold, which it says on the pattern piece, but I can easily see how just reading the diagram would look like it should be placed on the fold. The skirt pattern piece is not symmetrical so depending on how the pattern was placed on the fold it will end up either several inches too short or too long. I’m posting the updated cutting layouts below. If purchasing the pattern after July 1st these will be included in the pattern instructions. If you have any questions about this you can email me, as always, at hello@grainlinestudio.com

Grainline Studio | Moss Skirt Updated Cutting Layouts

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Journal Entry

Me Made May Recap

Grainline Studio | Me Made May Recap

You guys ready for some Me Made May Recap time? Just when you couldn’t get enough selfies of me on IG I’m throwing them at you one more time. Sheesh!! Anyway, I chose to document my Me Made May on Instagram (@grainlinestudio) and things started out well enough, but somewhere early, around day 15 I just couldn’t handle another photo of the same outfits in front of my fridge. Confession…I’m a serial outfit wearer. When I start wearing something I just want to wear it nonstop until I turn my outfit laser focus onto another unsuspecting garment. Lots of repeats so I kind of stopped photographing them. There are one or two MMM Instagram photos missing here but all the photographed outfits are represented. I also took my Portside set up to the cottage and totally failed at photographing that. Ah well.

Grainline Studio | Me Made May Recap

So what did I learn from this month? I already knew I hate having my photo taken and that didn’t change. Here’s my list…

  • I haven’t been able to make anything new for myself lately because I’ve been so busy getting everything ready for the new pattern release and shop relaunch and I’m pretty tired of a lot of my clothes. I’m itching to get done with this so I can move on and get myself some new outfits!
  • I don’t have enough Hemlock tees. When I’m working I really like to wear leggings and an oversized tee b/c I’m up and down from the machine so much, I like to be comfortable. I actually only own 2 Hemlock tees, the ones from the tutorial, and I SERIOUSLY need to get on that shit.
  • I also need to make myself some bottoms. It was a really weird May in Chicago, cold enough that I couldn’t really wear my Maritime Shorts or Moss Skirts (at least without tights and come May there’s no way you’re getting me into tights). I definitely need to get on the pants wagon. I have a dream of a fall pants pattern release so maybe that’ll happen…
  • Definitely could use to weed out some of my older garments. Some of them I just never wear, mostly because they’re totally worn out.

Grainline Studio | Me Made May Recap

I really really enjoyed seeing everyone else’s Me Made May photos and I have to tell you, waking up to Twitter and Instagram alerts from all kinds of people wearing the garments they’ve made from your patterns really is a great way to get the day rolling and get me ready to work. That’s what gets me up in the morning and back to the computer, or pattern table, or sewing machine, or that beast of an iron in the new summer Chicago humidity. You guys are THE BEST!!!

Also I should add, all the patterns here are my own, though only about half of them are currently published. Above are the Archer, Lakeside, Hemlock, and the upcoming Alder Shirtdress. You can find them all in my shop here except for the Alder which is coming in a few weeks. It’s at the printer now, so soon I promise!

22 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
News

Grainline Studio Business Hours

Hey guys,

I just wanted to put up a note about my business hours since I semi-regularly get emails expecting me to respond at 3am or while I’m out trying to take a break from work on the weekend.

If you email me outside the hours of 9am – 5pm CST on Monday – Friday I most likely won’t be able to email back until the next business day. Additionally I get a lot of emails asking a large variety of different things so it can occasionally take me 2 days or so to respond depending on the volume in my inbox.

I hope you understand, I’m my only employee trying to take care of all the aspects of delivering you awesome sewing patterns on my own while still staying a semi-sane human and keeping my relationships with friends & family healthy and intact. It’s a tough balance but I’m trying, and as always, thanks for your support!

Jen

30 Comments Posted in News
Inspiration

Knitting Storage & Fringe Supply Co.

Grainline Studio | Knitting Storage & Fringe Supply Co.

one | two | three | four | five | six

I’ve been getting much more into knitting lately than I have been over the past few years. I used to knit all the time but drifted off as I began sewing more and more. Lately though I’ve been enjoying it as an evening break from the usual sewing & work. As I knit on two sweaters at the same time I’ve come to realize that my knitting supplies are pretty unorganized. I have a small leather pouch I keep my knitting essentials in, stitch markers, small scissors, tape measure, row counter, etc. but other than that everything is a disaster. My projects are kept in plastic bags and my needle storage, that is a sight to see! My circulars and dpn’s are just piled into another plastic bag with the dpn’s rubber-banded together by set. Every time I need a different needle size or circular length it’s a real headache to sort out. I came across Fringe Supply Co. on Instagram and now I’m dreaming of a more organized knitting world. A cute striped bento bag for each project, brass stitch markers, adorable snips…sigh. Seriously everything in this shop is on my dream list.

How do you organize your projects, needles, and supplies? I have a dream in addition to cute project bags that somewhere out there exist natural colored canvas circular and dpn storage bags, perhaps something like this except for the part where I have to make it myself. I’ve got enough projects as it is! Help a girl get organized, let me in on your tips!

25 Comments Posted in Inspiration
Journal Entry

Spring Grainline Studio Update

Grainline Studio | Spring Update

Hey guys, apologies for being MIA lately here on the blog. I’m in super crunch time with something I’ve had in the works for a while now – printed patterns and a complete shop relaunch. I’ll be releasing my first printed pattern in a few weeks as well as re-launching the shop with newly laid out PDF patterns which will all include a copy shop version as well as the typical print at home version. I also wanted to give you a heads up that I’ll be raising some of my prices slightly to compete with the market of independent patterns and will be retiring – at least temporarily – the Kat Strapless Dress, so if you’ve been on the fence on that one you’ve got until around June 1st to grab it. It’s only graded up to size 12 and it’s just something I’m not going to be able to get done in the near future.

Anyway, I’m hoping to get back here with a Me Made May update soon, I’ve been learning a ton about my wardrobe, like the fact that I have no bottoms that aren’t a Moss skirt or Maritime shorts. Normally that wouldn’t be a problem but it’s been a cold spring, right now I’m wearing a scarf & hat! Till then you can follow along on Instagram (@grainlinestudio) with Me Made May updates, peeks at all the changes happening behind the scenes here, Roamy, etc.

26 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Journal Entry

Me Made May 2014

Okay so this is totally last minute, it’s 11:55 and I’m typing this on my phone in bed but through the powers of Instagram I was convinced by Kelly of Cut Cut Sew to participate in Me Made May. I’ve done absolutely no planning for this month so it could get a little weird. Can one wear an Archer as a top and another Archer as pants? Yikes!! Without further ado (and bc my codeine laced cough medicine is kicking in) I present my Me Made May pledge.

I, Jen (grainlinestudio.com), sign up as a participant of Me Made May 2014. I endeavor to wear a me-made garment at least 5 days a week. 

Thats the plan. I’ll be posting on Instagram (@grainlinestudio) and maybe a roundup here later on. I definitely need to work on my bottoms situation as well but I may not have time to get to that this month. Hopefully I did that right! Now off to bed for me to start dreaming up tomorrow’s outfit!

Are you guys taking part this year?

14 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Tips & Tricks

French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

01

As a follow up to Monday’s post on French seams I wanted to post how to deal with seam allowances that differ from my tutorial since I’ve gotten a lot of questions about this. The three pieces above have a 1/4″ seam allowance, a 1/2″ seam allowance, and a 5/8″ seam allowance. Basically when you do a French seam, you’re going to first stitch half of the seam allowance for the first seam (with wrong sides facing of course), but in situations such as a 5/8″ seam allowance stitching at 5/16″ is just not going to happen, nor does it need to. Stitch 3/8″ for that first seam.

Grainline Studio | French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

From there press the seam open and trim the seam allowances in half. From left to right the original seam allowances are as follows… 5/8″ – 1/2″ – 1/4″

Grainline Studio | French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

Press the seam with right sides facing to enclose the seam allowances. You’ll be stitching the 5/8″ seam allowance at 1/4″, the 1/2″ seam allowance also at 1/4″, and the 1/4″ seam allowance at 1/8″

Grainline Studio | French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

From left to right above we have the finished 1/4″ seam allowance, the 1/2″ seam allowance, and the 5/8″ seam allowance. Hope this clears things up a bit on various seam allowances.

 

 

7 Comments Posted in Tips & Tricks
Sewing Tutorials

French All Your Seams

 

If you’ve been following along for a while, you may remember this post, but I’ve been getting a lot of French seam questions lately so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to resurrect this tutorial from the blog archives and set it free a second time. I’m first going to do a run through of the french seam and then will show you how to apply it to the armhole.

Just a few notes before we begin… 1. french seams are usually best used on light to medium weight fabric. 2. French seams require you to split your seam allowance in two parts. This tutorial is done using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but if you are working with a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the first seam at 3/8″ and the second at 1/4″. I’ve tried to notate where this applies. With that, lets get to it! Click through to view the tutorial.

Continue reading

22 Comments Posted in Sewing Tutorials
Sewing Tutorials

Madewell Scout Variation: Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

Alright, here we go with the sewing portion of the Madewell Scout Variation. If you missed the pattern tutorial you can find it here. For this tutorial you’ll need the following supplies…

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Start sewing according to the Scout Tee instructions. The original Madewell top has faux flat felled seams throughout the garment. To achieve this finish, begin by sewing your seam as normal.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Serge your seam (alternately you can use a pinking shears or zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to keep the fabric from fraying), press the seam allowance to one side, and stitch through the seam allowance and top 1/4″ from the seam, anchoring the seam allowance. This is a faux flat felled seam.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next we’ll tackle the front V opening. We’re going to do finish this opening much the way you would finish a continuous sleeve placket. To start, clip to, but not through, the point you marked as the point of your V.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Cut a strip of 1″ wide bias tape long enough to span the opening. You can see in the above photo that the bias tape and seam allowance of the V meet except for a small wedge in the center by my thumb. This is the part without proper seam allowance that you clipped open in the above step, it will sit 1/4″ away from the edge of the bias binding. Sew from one edge to the other making sure to catch the tip of the V at the center. For more detailed instructions on sewing a continuous sleeve placket, see this tutorial.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next grade the seams and press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the top.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Understitch and fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment. Press the raw edge of the binding under and pin.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Sew along the edge of the binding. Now you have your V opening!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

To finish the rest of the neckline, you’ll follow the instructions included with the Scout with this one exception. When you get to the edges of the V opening, leave a bit of fabric over the edge as in the lower edge in the photo. This will be tucked up into the binding creating a finished the finished edge at the top of this photo.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Now to create the sleeve cuff. Insert your sleeves according to the directions in the Scout instructions. Fold up the sleeve along the new sleeve length line you marked on the pattern. Give the folded edge a good press.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Fold under your 1/4″ hem allowance along the raw edge, press.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next fold down the 1/2″ hem and press in place.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Fold the hem edge down to meet the new sleeve length you pressed earlier.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

 

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.

Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.

Fold the sleeve down and out of the way, stitch along the edge of the hem anchoring the hem in place. You may want to do a small bar tack at the underarm of the cuff to keep it from folding down while being worn.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Give your cuffs and shirt a final press and you’re done!

 

 

 

 

19 Comments Posted in Sewing Tutorials
Pattern Tutorials

Madewell Scout Variation: Pattern Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

As promised, here is the first tutorial in making the Scout Tee Madewell variation. I broke this down into two sections because it was getting pretty long as one post. For this variation tutorial you will need the following things…

  • Scout Tee Pattern
  • Rulers (straight and curved)
  • Pencil
  • Paper

You can click the below images to see a larger version if needed.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Pattern Tutorial

Figure 1

  • You’re going to need to first lengthen the sleeve. Decide how long you want your finished sleeve to be, this will be the length from the sleeve cap to the first line in the illustration above, new sleeve length.
  • Decide how wide you want your cuffs to be, mine are 1.5″ wide. Measure down that distance from the new sleeve length line, this is the first fold line. Measure down the same distance again to create the second fold line. This is your cuff.
  • Now to create the hem measure down 1/2″ from the second fold line. This will fold to the underside of the cuff, ensuring the cuff has no stitching lines.
  • From there measure down another 1/4″ hem seam allowance which you will fold under while hemming the sleeve.
  • The width of the bottom of my cuff is 16″ including seam allowance.

Figure 2

  • For the center front piece we’re going to need to create a new neckline. Raise the front of the neckline to the desired height, I raised mine 2.5″ then reblend the neckline.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Pattern Tutorial

Figure 3

  • Measure down from the center front neckline to the point you’d like the opening to start, mine was 5.5″ down.
  • Next measure over from the center front neckline 3/4″ and connect that point with the point you marked in the above step to create the neckline wedge. Add 1/4″ seam allowance to the line you just drew.
  • Curve the hem of the shirt, I marked a point 2′ up from the bottom edge of the side seam and blended to the center front.

Figure 4

  • Do the same to the hem of the center back pattern piece so that both the front and back have a curved hem.

That’s it for the pattern section. For the sewing tutorial click here!

9 Comments Posted in Pattern Tutorials