Jen's Handmade Wardrobe

FW ’15 Wardrobe Progress, Part 01

I’m doing things a little differently with my handmade wardrobe posts this time around. Rather than work behind the scenes and then do a post once a thing has been completed like I usually do, I want to share a bit more of my process and progress. I feel like this method has the potential to let me to slow down a bit and enjoy the act of making my wardrobe instead of getting stressed out and focusing only on the finished photo. I’m also going to be changing up how I do my finished garment photos, going from a photo of one thing to talking more about how I pair it with other things I’ve made as well as my RTW clothes. Thinking about it fully as a wardrobe rather than just one more thing I’ve made that will go into my closet. So, with that info out of the way, lets get chatting about projects!

In case you missed my original post outlining my FW ’15 wardrobe plans, you can find it here.

FW '15 Wardrobe Progress | Grainline Studio

One thing on my wardrobe list that I really need to get done is a new pair of gloves, or mitts, whatever the kind with the mitten cap is called. I was using this pair (which apparently I made back in 2010!) until last winter when they died a sad death digging our car out of 15″ of snow. I knit that pair without a pattern and for some unknown reason didn’t write down what I was doing. My goal now is to make my perfect mitt pattern that I can reference any time I need a new pair. I’m making up my own pattern because due to my super small hands I haven’t had a single glove pattern I’ve tried come close to fitting. My thought is if I’m going to have to rewrite the pattern anyway, I might as well just start from nothing.

Above is my first attempt at the mitt pattern as well as the start of the second. The first mitt was really close but not quite right, it was a tiny bit wide through the palm and fingers. I’m starting the second pair with 8 stitches less than the first attempt and I hope that should take care of things. The fingers were about 2 stitches too loose so the loss of 8 stitches should work to take care of the palm and fingers. The thumb gusset and thumb were perfect so this second mitt shouldn’t require too much math.

The yarn I’m using for these mitts is Madelinetosh Tosh Sock in Optic and you can view my Ravelry link here for more info regarding needle size, etc.

FW '15 Wardrobe Progress | Grainline Studio

1. Hemp/Cotton blend Hemlock Tee: Finishing will be done on the coverstitch machine.

2. Silk/Rayon blend jersey sleeveless Hemlock Tee (inspired by Kelly’s many versions). This one is cropped a bit and also will be finished on the coverstitch machine.

3. Hemp/Coton bland cropped Linden in a size up from my normal size for extra ease and a wider neck. I’m getting back on the yoga bandwagon and last time I was on that train I wore my one oversized Linden constantly. I’m considering stitching around the edges to prevent any raveling and leaving them raw for a more activewear look. We’ll see, I’m not great at not finishing things, even when it’s intended.

I had a few Lindens & Hemlocks in my plan, so I’ve been cutting and sewing here and there stealing time between projects. Christine has an amazing post on finding time to sew, which I highly recommend you read. I’ve been trying to put this into practice and as a result I’ve now got 3 shirts that are almost complete with just hemming left to do. It’s been hard for me to find time to sew because all of my equipment is at work and it’s not my natural inclination to come into work in my free time on nights & weekends, but the trick is finding what works for you.

My first step towards productivity was actually planning out what fabrics and silhouettes I was going to make, this stopped the paralysis of staring at my fabric stash, totally overwhelmed by the fact that any one piece could become one of a million things. I am now looking at my wardrobe plan post, then pulling the fabric and pattern based on the amount of time I have to cut or sew. So far so good, we’ll see how far this carries me through the sewn portion of my wardrobe!

FW '15 Wardrobe Progress | Grainline Studio

The final in progress part of my wardrobe plan is my Brooklyn Tweed Hawser. I feel like I should be further on this considering I started it a while ago, but I’ve been traveling so much and this isn’t exactly the most portable project so it’s been doing a fair amount of languishing in its project bag on a shelf. For those of you familiar with this pattern you’ll notice that I’m not knitting it in the round. I was inspired by Erica and decided to knit it flat with a side split after seeing her beautiful sweater, though I also hate working on something this large in the round, it just gets so heavy. Not my jam. I’ve made my back ribbing a bit longer than my front which is another mod I’m pumped about. I’m knitting my Hawser in Brooklyn Tweed Shelter in Cast Iron. I’m excited to see this sweater take shape and should have a lot more time to work on it soon, this weekend in Nashville is my last teaching trip for a while so I’ll get a little relaxing time on the weekends. Can’t wait!

So, that’s where my wardrobe is currently at! I’ll be checking back in next month, hopefully with more projects in progress!

13 Comments Posted in Jen's Handmade Wardrobe
Tamarack Jacket  |  Tips & Tricks

Quilting Tips for the Tamarack Jacket

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

I know a lot of you are mainly garment sewers and not quilters so I wanted to take a minute and talk a little bit about a few basic quilting techniques you might find useful if you’re making a Tamarack Jacket, as well as a few alternative quilting options.

You don’t need a ton of supplies to get started quilting, most of them you likely already have from garment sewing. There are of course a lot of specialty tools you can buy for quilting, but these are the basic tools I personally use.

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

1. Rotary mat: For the Tamarack you can cut your pieces out with scissors with no trouble, that’s what I did, but you can also use rotary tools. I usually use a rotary cutter and mat to cut my bias binding, I find it a lot easier than tracing and cutting with scissors since the bias can be finicky. You’ll need a mat to place under the fabric you’re cutting to prevent your rotary blade from scarring up your cutting surface. For more information on cutting mats, Amy has a great post called Adventures in Cutting Mats you might want to check out.

2. Walking Foot: When quilting you’re stitching through multiple layers of fabric and batting. If you’re using a regular foot it’s easy for the fabric to become puckered because the rate that the upper and lower pieces of fabric are going through the machine are slightly different due to the feed dogs and friction on the foot. A walking foot helps to equalize this by moving the fabric through evenly meaning you can quilt without puckers.

3. Marking Chalk: You’re going to need this to draw your quilting lines. I recommend traditional white chalk because it will definitely wash out. I get a bit nervous using dyed chalk because that’s how I roll, but I would recommend you avoid using a Frixion pen when quilting. Those pens are great for things you’re going to cut away, but when you iron them you’re not actually removing the markings and they can reappear when the fabric is exposed to cold. Not idea when making something you’re going to use in cold weather like a quilt or jacket. I’ve seen this first hand on one of my mom’s quilts and it’s a well known problem in many quilting circles (including my mom’s guild).

4. Rotary Cutter: Pretty self explanatory, helpful when cutting bias especially. Make sure you have a sharp blade and you’re good to go.

5. Needle & Thread: If you’re going to hand baste this is a must. For my Tamaracks I like to hand baste one line perpendicular to the center front connecting to the armhole and another parallel to center front from the top of the shoulder to the hem. These lines give me a reference point when tracing my quilting lines that won’t shift or move as I work.

6. Safety Pins: This is a really popular basting method. They stay in place nicely and won’t fall out or poke you as you work. You can also buy special quilting safety pins that are curved to make placing and removing them much easier. Bonus points if your safety pins are coil-less as your fabric won’t run the risk of getting stuck in a coil. I usually borrow my mom’s when I’m working on a quilt, but for a small jacket like this these worked just fine.

7. Straight Pins: I don’t recommend using straight pins for regular quilting on an actual quilt. You run the risk of the fabric getting stuck on the pins, them sticking you, or them just falling out. For something as small as the pieces of the Tamarack though, you’ll be just fine. I had to use them on my lighter jacket because of the weave of the chambray I used. The safety pins were slightly too large to go through the fabric without leaving a mark and I needed a slimmer needle.

8. Acrylic Ruler: If you’re using a rotary cutter and blade you’re going to want to make sure that you have a thick acrylic ruler made for use with a rotary blade. Don’t use your 18″ clear gridded ruler, just don’t. Even a semi-sharp rotary blade can cut through one of those so it’s easy to ruin your ruler. More importantly though, you need a thick edge to keep the rotary blade on the fabric and off the ruler. Once the blade hits the top of the ruler it’s only a short distance to your hand and you do not want to slice off part of that.

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

In the Tamarack pattern I talk a bit about something called the “Quilt Sandwich” which is basically three layers of fabric. The first is your top, this is the outside of the piece you’re quilting. You’ll want this facing up as you quilt. Below the top is the batting, and below the batting is the backing. You can think of the backing as your lining.

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

I briefly talked about about the ways you can baste your fabric above, but here’s what each method looks like in practice. For all methods you’ll want to make sure that the fabric on each side of your stitching line is secured. I also recommend starting at the center of your piece and working out towards the edges. This way you can make sure things are in alignment and your fabric isn’t moving one way or the other while working.

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

On our Tamarack Jackets we used straight line machine quilting. There are many different and interesting ways to quilt using straight lines in addition to rows of straight lines. I highly recommend making a few test pieces with your garment fabric and the batting you intend to use so that you can get an idea what works. Each fabric and batting combination will look slightly different so test a bunch out and see what you like!

In swatch 1 we did a basic diagonal diamond pattern, each line is 1.5″ apart from each other. Swatch 2 is the same pattern but on the straight and cross grains rather than the bias. You can see how different the two techniques look just by stitching the same pattern in different directions. Swatch 3 is one of my favorites. It’s made by stitching vertical lines 1.5″ apart from each other, then when the whole piece is stitched, going back over the piece on the 45 degree diagonal to the straight lines.

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

If you’ve got a quilting machine on hand you can totally try free motion quilting. My machine has something called a Free Motion Foot (3) which allows you to move the fabric around under the foot and essentially stitch free hand. It’s completely unnatural to me and I find that keeping the stitches even without a stitch regulator is almost impossible. I have to say, this is something that, in addition to a quilting machine, requires quite a bit of practice and some talent. You can see in swatch 1 my first attempt in the lower squiggle. After practicing a bit I managed to get swatch 2 but that’s also a bit meh. My mom did the upper portion of swatch one which is definitely the most even and best looking part of these. It’s really fun trying to get it to work though, and if it’s something you’re already good with, it could really open up some fun quilting opportunities for jacket!

Quilting Techniques for the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

The last method of quilting I have for you is Sashiko quilting. Sashiko is a form of stitching from Japan that was traditionally used for reinforcement and repair. It’s also used for decorative stitching in quilting, sewing & embroidery and has a really great texture and lots of visual interest. It’s surprisingly quick as well which I found out while making this swatch. You can buy Sashiko thread (2) and needles (1) which I really liked working with, or you can approximate the look with embroidery floss.

I hope you found this basic guide to quilting helpful! If you have more specific questions just let me know in the comments below.

14 Comments Posted in Tamarack Jacket, Tips & Tricks
Lark Sew Along

Lark Variation Strap Neckline Detail Variation

Lark Variation Neck Strap Detail | Grainline Studio

Today I’m bringing you a quick and simple Lark variation, how to add a strap neckline detail, as pictured above. It adds an extra bit of interest plus it’s a fun and super easy way to change up the pattern!

Lark Variation Neck Strap Detail | Grainline Studio

The first thing you will want to do is construct a Lark exactly as instructed to do so in the booklet. You can use whichever sleeve length you wish but be sure to use the scoop neckline for this variation.

Once you have a completed Lark, try the tee on and use a soft measuring tape to measure from one shoulder seam straight down to center front and back up again to the other shoulder seam.

Hint: It’s a good idea to mark the center front with a pin to help you get an accurate measurement.

Next you will cut two separate pieces of fabric, one will be your anchor and one will be the strip. For the anchor you will want to cut a square piece of fabric 2″ X 2″, set it aside.

Then cut a 1″ wide strip the length of your personal shoulder distance subtract 2″. As an example, for my tee I measured 14″, so I cut a strip 1″ X 12″.

P9210885Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation |Grainline Studio

Fold both the small square and the strip you just cut in half. Sew the seam at 1/4.” You can either sew the pieces on a serger or your regular sewing machine.

Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation | Grainline Studio

You will now have your tee, the neckline strap, and the anchor piece.

Lark Variation Neck Strap Detail | Grainline Studio

Attach a safety pin to one raw edge of the strip, insert the safety pin inside the tube and push it towards the opposite end, pulling the tube right side out. Do the same thing for the anchor. Press the anchor so the seam is in the middle and the long tube so the seam is on one side of the piece.

Hint: if you serged it will naturally want to press in that direction.

Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation  | Grainline Studio

Fold the anchor in half so the two raw edges meet. Sew the two edges together.

Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation | Grainline Studio

From here you will want to find the center front of your Lark, mark it with a pin. Then center the anchor and pin in place. Sew exactly on top of your topstitching or stitch in the ditch if you chose not to topstitch.

Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation | Grainline Studio

Insert the long strip into the anchor you just sewed onto your shirt. You can optionally serge the ends of the strip for a more finished look. From here, try your tee on and check that the strip hasn’t stretched while you were working with it. if it has, simply cut the ends so it lays nicely along your collar bones.

Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation | Grainline Studio

Once you are sure you have the correct length, remove the tee and pin the ends in place. Pin each end right on top of the point where the neckline binding meets the shoulder seam.

Lark Strap Neckline Detail Variation | Grainline Studio

Sew each end exactly on top of your topstitching or stitch in the ditch if you choose not to topstitch. Give your tee a finish press and that’s it, you’re finished!

1 Comment Posted in Lark Sew Along
Tamarack Jacket

Tamarack with Pre-Quilted Fabric

Pre-Quilted Tamarak Yardage | Grainline Studio

Pre-Quilted Nani Iro fabric at Miss Matatabi [clockwise from top left 1 | 2 | 3 | 4]

We’ve gotten a few questions about yardage from people planning on using pre-quilted fabric as well as batting by the yard. You’ll find the yardages for both below!

45″ Wide Layout | Sizes 0-18 |  2 1/4 ydsTamarack Pre-Quilted Yardage 45 Wide | Grainline Studio

54″ Wide Layout | Sizes 0-18 | 1 3/4 yds

Tamarack Pre-Quilted Yardage 45 Wide | Grainline Studio

8 Comments Posted in Tamarack Jacket
News  |  Tamarack Jacket

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

I think some of you may have had an idea that this was coming, but today we’re excited to unveil the newest Grainline Studio pattern, the Tamarack Jacket! I’m personally really excited about this jacket – I wore the version with wool batting nonstop when I was in Berlin and loved it, and this past week the cotton version (pictured above) has been my every day go to jacket.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

cotton-linen shell / wool batting

The Tamarack Jacket pattern comes with instructions for the two quilting designs shown here, horizontal lines and a diamond pattern, though there is plenty of room for customization with your own quilting pattern. We highly recommend taking the time to quilt a test piece of fabric large enough that you can see how the fabric and batting will react to the design. Wool batting is much loftier than cotton which will result in a more puffy coat. We found that wool batting lent itself to lines further spaced apart that allowed the batting to puff as it wanted.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

cotton chambray shell / cotton batting

Cotton batting is much more dense than the wool batting making it significantly less puffy. The flatter nature of the cotton batting lends itself to more intricate quilting patterns which may get lost in the puff of the wool. I definitely felt like I had much more opportunity for creative quilting on my samples with cotton batting whereas with wool it seemed like anything more than simple lines were getting lost amongst the puff of the batting.

I strongly recommend purchasing high quality quilt batting as well as pre-washing your fabric before you start quilting this jacket. Most high quality quilt batting will resist shrinkage when washing which makes the higher price tag worth it for me. Since you’re sewing more than one type of fiber together into this jacket, you’ll want to reduce any chance of shrinkage as much as possible. There’s no guarantee the shell and batting if given the chance to shrink, would shrink at the same rate – in fact, they will almost certainly shrink at different rates.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

Now let’s talk about the design features of the Tamarack! First off, it was drafted with fall sweater wearing in mind. The dropped shoulders and armholes allow for the often bulky arms of sweaters to fit nicely without bunching, while still maintaining a slim fit through the sleeves.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

The Tamarack is finished with bias binding and uses a really smart corner technique borrowed from quilting that I think you’ll enjoy. Finishing the jacket with binding cuts down on both time and bulk – since the quilting of the jacket takes the longest we wanted to make sure the construction of the actual coat was straightforward and easy. I also like the way binding looks better than sewing the coat wrong sides out and flipping it. It can be hard to press perfectly along the seam line so using binding just keeps everything nice and neat.

The jacket closes with coat weight hooks & eyes applied to the wrong side of the jacket. We really liked the streamlined silhouette this provided.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

The welt pockets are another part I find quite nice. The opening of the pocket is perfectly sized for your hand but the interior pocket is quite roomy allowing plenty of room for a smart phone, keys, etc. I hate when pockets don’t fit my phone and keys since they rarely make it to my bag so this was a must.

Introducing the Tamarack Jacket | Grainline Studio

We also walk you step by step through the insertion of the welt pockets in detail so if you haven’t sewn this type of pocket before have no fear, we’ve got you covered. Welt pockets are a lot easier than you think, I promise, but if you’re worried, you can always make the coat without them or add your own patch pockets.

That’s it for now, you can check out the Tamarack Jacket over in the shop. I’ll be wearing mine at Camp Workroom Social this weekend!

30 Comments Posted in News, Tamarack Jacket
Inspiration  |  Journal Entry

Fall ’15 Wardrobe Plans

Jen's Fall '15 Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

It’s been a few weeks since my post on my fall wardrobe inspiration but I’m finally back with my fall / winter sewing plans! As always, these are things I’d love to make if I have time, but I’m not holding myself to any of this. I’ve learned over the years that keeping these wardrobe collections fun and relatively stress free is the best way for me to actually get any of them made. So lets get started!

1. Hawser by Jared Flood for Brooklyn Tweed: I’ve been knitting this for a bit now and I’m about halfway through the back piece. I’ve decided to knit it flat rather than in the round as the pattern calls for because I’m generally not a fan of having the weight of a huge sweater on my needles. I’m also modifying it to have a split hem with the back ribbing a bit longer than the front. I’m using BT Shelter in Cast Iron. [ravelry project link]

2. Diode by EricaKnits: I actually just finished this hat in some neon peach Madelinetosh Tosh Light but I love the pattern so much I want to knit a second one in a color that’s maybe a bit more wearable. I’m thinking this could be some BT Loft I have stashed but I’ll work up a swatch and see how it goes. [ravelry project link]

3. Mitts in Madelinetosh Tosh Sock: I made a pair of socks with this yarn over the summer and decided to use the leftovers to make myself a new pair of mitts. They’re the type with the flip top so I never know what to call them, but they’re coming along quite nicely. I’m hoping to finish them before Camp Workroom Social at the end of this week since it’s going to be ice cold there, but we’ll see what happens. [ravelry project link]

4. Cowl: I have no idea what pattern or yarn I’m going to use for this cowl, but every year I want one and every year I don’t make one. I’m hoping this is the year?

5. Socks: I have three new sock yarns, all Madelinetosh Twist Light in the colorways Antique Lace, Faded Parka, and Modern Fair Isle. Again no patterns picked out quite yet but I did get a lot of great pattern (and yarn!) suggestions on this Instagram post from a few days ago. Thanks to all of you who left suggestions for me!

Jen's Fall '15 Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

6. I want to make some leggings for the yoga I really need to get back to this winter. I was so good last winter – went for months every week – then fell off the wagon when the weather got nice. I’m thinking about trying out the new Sewaholic Pacific Leggings because I like that the style is based in athletic wear rather than leisure. Thicker waistband, contoured seams, you know what I mean.

7. Hemlock Tee: On the yoga front, I really like wearing a cropped Hemlock to class with a tank underneath so I can layer it up at the beginning and end of class before and after things warm up. I have this awesome hemp/cotton blend jersey from Fancy Tiger (my colorway is sold out) and a random grey rib knit of unknown origins that will be perfect for the job.

Jen's Fall '15 Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

8. Linden Sweatshirt: I bought these two fabrics specifically to make some sweater style Lindens. The black & white is a novelty knit from Mood which I can’t find on the site at the moment, and the ivory knit is a wool jersey that feels so nice and will be a really nice, warm layering piece during the colder months.

Jen's Fall '15 Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

9. Moss Skirt: It’s getting to be my favorite time of year for the Moss because I love wearing it with tights & boots! I really really need one in black denim. I have a pretty good contender above but I’m really looking for a denim without white threads, which is hard to find. I might end up going with a regular twill if I can’t find it but I’m going to search for a bit longer before I give up.

10. Lark Tee: Most of the Lark’s I’ve made so far have been for sample purposes (though I stole one or two of those for myself) so I want to make up a few more. I’d love one in this white & black stripe hemp blend I used for the first Lark Variation, as well as one in this light peachy pink tissue jersey. The grey fabric is Nike DriFit jersey which is earmarked for a short sleeved Lark for working out.

Jen's Fall '15 Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

11. Pants: No pattern for these yet, but I’d like them to be something between trousers and skinny jeans, made from a really nice wool twill I’ve been hoarding. I love skinny jeans but sometimes my knees just need to be free, you know what I’m saying? I’m imagining a loose, yet sleek, slightly tapered straight leg with slash pockets in front and welts in back. A step up from my typical jeans look. I also have denim for a few pairs of jeans when I get the time…which could be a while.

12. Archer Button Up: Three plaids for this one! I seriously need more Archers, I wear them nonstop and haven’t made one in a while which means I’m about to wear through a few of my current ones. The black is a thin cotton flannel, the white & black plaid is Japanese cotton shirting, and the red is the thickest, coziest Mammoth Flannel from Robert Kaufman. Can’t want to get going on these, I really love sewing Archers!

Jen's Fall '15 Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

13. Cascade Duffle Coat: It might seem like I have 4000 of these coats but most of them are samples and not for my every day wear. I wore out my personal short one over the past 2 winters from wearing it so much so I’d like to get a new one going. This fabric is a Rag & Bone coating from Mood that’s no longer available, but I think it’s going to be awesome!

14. Tamarack Jacket: I already have a few of these and love them SO MUCH. This will be our next pattern so more deets coming soon…!

In addition to this list there are a few random things I’d like to make – some camisoles for layering, a white woven tank, a bra or two, and I also need to replace the lining in this coat which I still love to death and wear nonstop. I think this list should take approximately the rest of eternity so yeah, no big deal!

I’m sure most of you have your fall sewing plans worked out already…any must  makes on the list?

32 Comments Posted in Inspiration, Journal Entry
Lark Sew Along

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

Today we’re sewing up the Lark Cardigan. Start by cutting out your pattern. You’ll need 2 sleeves, 1 back, and 2 fronts.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

The assembly instructions are the same as the actual Lark pattern but we’ll run through them here as well. Begin by sewing the shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back of the cardigan.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

Next insert the sleeves. Press seam allowance lightly towards the sleeves.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

Sew up your side seams from sleeve hem to body hem. Press the seam allowances towards the back of the cardigan.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

This is where construction varies from the original sewing instructions. All of the hem allowances around the outside of the cardigan are going to be 3/4″ wide. Begin by folding the neckline under 3/4″ and press.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

Stitch the seam allowance in place either with a zig zag stitch, stretch stitch, twin needle or a coverstitch, which we used in this tutorial.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

Fold the fronts under and stitch in place, then repeat for the hem.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Sewing Tutorial | Grainline Studio

Fold up and hem the sleeves and you’re all set, super easy!

New Lark Tee | Grainline Studio

That’s that on the cardigan, hope you enjoyed this variation. If you have any q’s you can leave a comment below.

12 Comments Posted in Lark Sew Along
Lark Sew Along

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Pattern Alterations

New Lark Tee | Grainline Studio

Today we’ve got the first installment in how to turn your Lark Tee into a draped cardigan. It’s pretty easy but rather than give it all to you at once, I’m breaking the tutorial up into two parts. Up today are the pattern alterations.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Pattern Adjustments | Grainline Studio

In order to make this cardigan you’re going to want to start with pieces 1, 2, and 14 – these are the crew neck front & back as well as the long sleeve.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Pattern Adjustments | Grainline Studio

For both pieces you’re going to want to straighten out the side seam a bit. Since the cardigan is loose and drapey you don’t need the fitted side seam. Blend from the bust to the hip creating a smooth curve.

For the front piece you’re going to want to square out a line 12.5″ out from the CF of the neckline. Mark a point 1.5″ down, this will be the new corner. Blend from about 1/3 down the original neckline, touching the original CF neckline point out to the point you marked on the new front. Extend the hem out 12.5″ and re-draw the front line. This is your new front piece.

Lark Sew-Along: Cardigan Pattern Adjustments | Grainline Studio

You don’t need to do anything to the sleeve, just keep that one as is. You’ll now have three pattern pieces that look like these. In my cardigan I shortened the length by 2.5″ since I was using a pretty drapey fabric, but this is totally optional.

That’s it for the pattern adjustments, pretty basic. I actually cut mine without a muslin since it’s an easy adjustment but feel free to test yours out before cutting real fabric. Next up we’ll have the sewing instructions.

6 Comments Posted in Lark Sew Along
Journal Entry

Kendra’s Fall ’15 Wardrobe Plans

A few weeks ago, you may have seen my inspiration post where I talked about my fall wardrobe plans. Recently, I took that inspiration and channeled it into lists. I’m about to get real with you all: I hate drawing. I’m not terrible at it (definitely not good), but I tend to plan and get better ideas from writing. I’m a big fan of mind maps, word associations, and just plain lists. 

Kendra's '15 Fall Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

First, I did my best to figure out how my time during the week was balancing out for the upcoming months. Drawing up a list of how I spend my days helped me decide what types of outfits I would need. Most of my days call for casual looks, however, I do have some special events that will require a fancier dress code and I like to dress up a bit when I go out for dates with my dude or with friends. Before picking out fabric, I thought about colors I wanted to focus on and made a little chart for that. I can get a bit zippy when fabric shopping, which sometimes results in me buying yardage that I don’t end up using. Having these colors in mind helped me to focus on the really fun part: deciding what I was going to make!

Kendra's '15 Fall Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

This fall, I would love to make a self-drafted pair of jeans. I have some ideas and a pair in my closet to use as inspiration. It’s one of the bigger projects I have planned, but I think it would feel really great to have a pattern made just for me by me. I also have plans to make a new dark denim Moss, it’s a perfect pairing with tights and oxfords. The last item I have planned as far as bottoms is a circle midi skirt that is high waisted and zips up the back made from a heavy black knit. It would be a self-drafted pattern as well, hopefully I’ll be able to get around to working on these before winter comes along!

As for tops, I wear a lot of tees, which is perfect because the Lark just came out! I have plans and fabric for 5 Larks, a couple with variations, some long sleeved and some short. It’s a great pattern for layering or to be worn all on its own. I could also use two new Archers cut straight from the pattern with no changes. I have fabric I’m really excited about for those, both plaids. I’m going to make them in heavier flannels to act as overcoats, borrowing that one from the boys. Then there is the sweatshirt I posted in one of my inspiration boards, I will definitely use that as inspiration for a Linden with snaps up the back. I also have plans for a striped Hemlock and few other items here and there.

Kendra's '15 Fall Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

I’m still new to knitting but I have totally and completely fallen head over heels for it. So, I’m really challenging myself this fall to knit up a storm when I’m not in the studio, partly because I want to learn as much as I can and also because it’s fall! I have just started knitting up the Heathered cardigan by Melissa Schaschwary. I wear the same ratty short waisted cardigan a lot in the fall, so this hand knit is meant to replace it. I also have big plans for knitting the Docklight sweater by Julie Hoover. I’m thinking charcoal grey. I have a couple unfinished knitting projects I want to finish up before winter in heavier wools, a scarf, and the Cross Country Coat by Wool and the Gang, so I’ll work on those as well.

Kendra's '15 Fall Wardrobe Plans | Grainline Studio

I’m so excited to start crossing items off these lists! I get a ridiculous amount of joy from that, I think it’s part of the reason I make them in the first place!  What pieces are you excited about for fall? Anything you can’t wait to make?



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Lark Sew Along

Lark Sew-Along: Hemming

Lark Sew-Along: Hemming

Today we’ll be hemming our Larks. As with the sleeves, this is the same for every style of shirt included in this pattern. This is the most basic method to hem a knit shirt, but it’s the one I use ever time. I’ll be showing the body hem below but the sleeve hems are identical.

Lark Sew-Along: Hemming

The first step is to press up your 3/4″ seam allowance. From here you’ll be stitching the hem in place. If you’re using a coverstitch or zig zag stitch, you’ll want to catch the folded edge with one side of the stitch and just the shirt with the other so that the raw edge is concealed inside of the stitching. If you’re using a straight stitch, you’ll want to stitch about 1/8″ from the raw edge of the folded edge.

Lark Sew-Along: Hemming

Once you’ve sewn around your hem, give the stitching line a press to get everything flattened out and that’s basically it! I know there are a zillion different ways to sew a hem but this is how we do ours and what works for us.

That’s it for the Lark Sew-Along, but we’ve got a few Variations planned for the upcoming weeks. Thanks for sewing along with us!

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