Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Today is the final post in the Cascade Sew-Along, save for some variations I have planned that will pop up in the next few weeks, and we’re going to be sewing the lining into the coat. We will be doing this using the “bagged” method which requires little to no hand stitching. This method seems kind of crazy when you’re first reading through it but it definitely works, and works well! If you feel like you need more guidance, I have a Bagged Jacket Lining tutorial on the blog already, sometimes seeing things written out and photographed more than once can help clear out confusion, so you may want to check that out as well. And with that, lets get started!

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Begin by laying the coat shell out face up and the coat lining face down on top of it.

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Pin around the edges of the facings only, do not do anything with the lining yet.

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the bottom, sides, and neckline of where the coat and facings meet. You may want to turn your coat right side out at this point to double check that everything has been sewn at the right place before we seal up the coat in the next step. If you need to make any adjustments to the stitching, do that now.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Now align the hems of the lining and facing, fold back the seam allowance where the lining and facing meets. The sleeves will be tucked up inside of the body. It will seem like the lining is too short to meet the facing but don’t worry about that, this is what will create the pleat when the coat is turned.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the bottom of the hem. Clip your corners and grade the seam allowances along the seams that are sewn to the facing. You do not need to clip or grade anything related to the hem of the lining or hem facing.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Now lay your coat out in a similar fashion. We’ll be attaching the sleeve facing and lining together in these next steps. I promise you’ll be able to get your jacket right side out after this no matter how strange this may seem.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Fold the cuff of the sleeve lining up about 2″.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Insert the folded lining cuff into the sleeve of the coat. You’ll want to make sure that the sleeves aren’t twisted and you have the correct seams matching each other.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

The front and back underarm seams should be matching.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the cuff at the standard 1/2″ seam allowance. I’ve found this is the easiest setup to do so at my machine.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Your cuff now looks like this. Repeat the previous steps for the other sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

After both sleeves are connected at the cuffs, find the hole you left in one of the seams of the sleeve. If you left it open you’re good, if you basted it shut like I did to get a sharp seam press, then open the basting now.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

You will now begin slowly pulling the entire coat out that hole. Work slowly a little bit at a time and your coat will come through just fine. This Pendleton wool is SUPER thick and it worked with no trouble.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

You now have a coat that looks something like this. Pull the sleeves out and head over to your ironing board and begin gently pressing along the outer seam line to give the edges of your jacket a sharp press.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Despite the fact that none of these seams are on a curve, I find it easiest to press on the wool side of the ham because it holds the steam in longer to give a sharper press.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Once your coat is pressed, find the hole you made in the sleeve (we haven’t sewn it up yet) and run your hand through it to grab the side seams of both the lining and shell of the opposite side from the sleeve you have the hole in.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Bring the both out through the sleeve hole so that they’re visible and aligned next to one another.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

We will now create a thread chain between the two points to reduce lining slippage at the underarm. You won’t have to worry about the lining slipping far into or out of the sleeve when putting on and removing your coat. Once you’ve done that side, repeat for the other underarm.

 

The above is a small video illustrating how to make a thread chain. Apologies for the heater going on in the background, I unfortunately don’t have control over that.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Once both of your thread chains are in, you can sew up the hole in the sleeve one of two ways. You could do it by hand, or run over to your machine and stitch close to the edge. I usually use the machine method but either works equally well.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

Once the hole is sewn up your last step is to stitch shut the small opening in the bottom of the jacket. Align and press everything as shown above and hand stitch in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Lining your Coat | Grainline Studio

And congratulations!! You’ve just sewn the Cascade Duffle Coat!! I’m super proud of you and it really wasn’t that hard at all was it! It’s supposed to warm up a bit around here this weekend so I should be able to get some better photos of the finished coats for next week. I can’t believe it but it’s actually been too cold to wear any of my Cascades recently. I hope you enjoyed the sew along and learned a thing or two. Can’t wait to see your finished coats! If you’re on social media consider tagging me (@grainlinestudio) or using the #CascadeDuffleCoat or #CascadeSewAlong hashtags so I can check out what you’re up to with them!

 

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News

Shipping Notification for March 9-16th

Delayed Shipping March 9-15th

I just wanted to let you all know that any orders placed between March 9-13 will be subject to intermittent shipping and may not go out until March 16th. If there’s anything you need from the shop, the last scheduled shipment will go out Friday afternoon so I recommend ordering before 2PM CST to ensure you get into that shipment. I’ll be in and out of the office that week and I apologize for this inconvenience. I thank you for your understanding.

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Today we’ll be assembling our lining and facings to get ready to bag our coat. To begin, grab the two back lining pieces and pin the center back seam with right sides facing. Stitch along the seam allowance line.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Press the seam allowance open. Since the center back contains a curve for the pleat I like to press it over my ham.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Bring the two center back notches together to form the back pleat. Pin and stitch within the 1/2″ seam allowance. I stitched mine at 1/4″

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll be attaching the lining to the center back facing. Match the edges and center back and pin between those points. Above shows you what each side of the lining will look like when pinned.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the seam and grade the seam allowance of the lining.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the lining away from the facing and run a line of stitching along the lining side of the seam to keep it in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Next we’ll be attaching our front lining pieces to the front facings. Align the two pieces matching ends and notches. Before you stitch, measure up 2″ from the hem and mark that point with a pin. You’ll stop sewing here, leaving the bottom 2″ of the lining and facing unattached. Grade the seam allowance of the lining along the stitching line, do not grade where you left the lining hanging free.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the lining away from the facings and stitch along the lining side of the seam as you did for the center back facing.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Sew the side and shoulders seam together and press seam allowances open. Set the body aside.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Assemble and insert your sleeves. If you need detailed instructions for this step, see the previous post, Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams and Sleeves. Set the lining aside.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll be attaching the sleeve and hem facings to the coat. Begin by sewing the front hem facings to the back hem facing matching notches and with right sides towards each other. Trim your seam allowance and press the seams open.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Align the hem facing with the hem of the coat with the right sides facing. Match center back and seam lines and stitch along the hem from one edge of the facing to the other. Grade the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the facing down and understitch along the facing side of the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Sew the ends of each sleeve facing together, press the seam allowances open, and trim them down to half.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Align the sleeve and sleeve facing so that right sides are facing and the seam of the facing matches the back seam of the sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Stitch around the sleeve opening and grade the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Press the sleeve facing and seam allowance away from the sleeve. I find this is most easily accomplished by using the sleeve roll.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

Understitch along the sleeve facing. Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Lining and Facings | Grainline Studio

You now have your lining assembled and facings attached. Our final Cascade Sew-Along post will show you how to insert the lining using the “bagged” method. Stay tuned!

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Today we’ll be assembling and attaching the hood. Start by grabbing your self hood pieces and set the hood lining and facings aside for a moment.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: HoodCascade Sew-Along: Hood

With right sides facing pin the center hood to one section of the side hood. Match edges and notches, then pin around the curved section.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Sew the two pieces together and notch along the curve of the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Press your seam allowance open. Using a ham for this will help you smoothly press along the curved seam allowance of the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Repeat these steps to attach the other side of the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

To assemble the hood lining, follow the above steps with the lining pieces.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

For the hood facing, sew the two side facings to the center facings. Make sure to match your notches so the center panel isn’t sewn in backwards. Press your seam allowances open and grade them in half.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Pin your hood facing to the hood with right sides together. Make sure to match your edges and seam allowances, and sew the two layers together.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Grade the facing side of the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Press both the facing and the seam allowance away from the hood.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Understitch along the facing side of the seam.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Press the facing to the underside of the hood, be sure to roll the seam line slightly to the inside so that it doesn’t show on the outside of the hood. The understitching you did in the previous step will help ensure this happens.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Align the raw edges of the hood lining and hood facing with right sides of the fabric facing each other. Match your seams and fabric edges. Stitch together.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Grade the seam allowance of the lining.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Flip the hood right side out and align the raw neckline edges of the hood and lining together. There will be a bit of overlap in the lining which forms a pleat at the edge of the lining, this allows for movement inside the hood and acts in the same fashion as the hem pleat of a lining. Fold the excess over as shown above and stitch the two layers together just inside the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

You now have a completed hood which we will attach to the neckline in the next step.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Lay the coat and hood out in the above formation. The right side of the coat should be facing up and the lining of the hood will also be facing up.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Match the center back notches and the fronts of the coat. If you read the post on attaching the collar, you’ll want to align the front edge of the hood in the same fashion. The seam line of the collar should hit right at the corner of the seam allowance of the front of the coat as it does in the above photo.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

Pin the rest of the hood in place and stitch through the hood and neckline to attach the hood to the coat. You don’t need to clip or notch any seam allowances quite yet, we’ll get to that when we attach the lining of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Hood

You’ll now have your collar or hood attached and are ready for the next step of assembling the lining and facings. See you back here for that part next!

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Next up in the Cascade Sew-Along is applying either your collar or hood. Today I’ll be showing you how to attach your hood. In the booklet and samples, View A is shown with the collar and View B with the hood but the two are completely interchangeable. Begin by pinning the center back seam of the under collar pieces together with the right sides facing each other.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Stitch the two layers together and press the seam open.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Next, again with the right sides facing, align the under and upper collars along the outer edges and stitch the two layers together.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Grade your seams and either notch or trim your corners. I like to trim down the entire corner to about 1/8″ instead of notching, it usually gives a much smoother curve. For an explanation of the differences between the two methods, you can check out this tutorial.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Head over to your ironing board and press the seam allowance and the under collar away from the collar.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You’ll now want to understitch along the seam line through the seam allowance and under collar. Since the rounded edge of the corner is too tight to neatly understitch you’ll just be doing this on the straight sides and back edge of the collar.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You’ll now have something like this. You can see how the understitching makes the seam line want to naturally roll to the underside of the collar, this is helpful in the next step.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press the collar flat making sure that the seam allowance rolls to the underside of the collar and that the raw edges of the upper and under collar meet.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Pin the two layers together and stitch along the raw edges of the collar at 1/4″ or somewhere within the seam allowance. This ensures that the two pieces act as one while attaching the collar stand.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Next you’re going to pin the non-interfaced collar stand piece to the collar with the right sides facing. Make sure you’ve matched your notches and your seam lines at the edge. Stitch the two layers together along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Clip the pointed ends of the collar stand so that it’s flush with the edge of the collar.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Notch and grade the seam allowance of the collar stand.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Now align the interfaced collar stand with the upper collar side of the collar. With right sides facing pin in place matching notches and seam lines.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Stitch through all layers. I stitched with the interfaced collar stand facing towards the feed dogs so I could follow the stitching line I previously used exactly. This ensures that you don’t see any of the previous stitching when you flip the collar stand back over.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

This is what you’ve got after the last step. Do as you did for the other collar stand, trim the points flush, grade, and notch the seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Press both of the collar stands down, I find this easiest to do on top of the ham, wool side up as I mentioned a few posts back.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

After you’ve done that, run a line of topstitching along the collar stand curve to anchor the two layers together. Alternately you could stitch in the ditch along the curved collar / collar stand seam. I don’t recommend putting a line of stitching along the collar side of the curve since depending on where it’s placed it can affect the roll of the collar. Once you’ve done this, run a line of stitching inside the seam allowance at the bottom raw edge of the collar so that it acts as one layer when attaching it to the neckline.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Illustrating the roll of the collar and stitching lines.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll attach the assembled collar to the neckline of the coat. Begin by laying out the coat with the right side facing up and the under collar facing up. This is how the collar will end up attached to the coat in the end.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Fold the collar down over the coat so that the under collar is facing the right side of the coat. Pin in place matching center back, shoulder seams, and the front edge of the jacket.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

When placing the front edge of the collar with the coat you want the finished edge of the collar to fall at the 1/2″ seam allowance of the coat edge.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Stitch through all layers of the collar and neckline. If your fabric is particularly bulky like my this Pendleton is you may find it helpful to use a walking foot and possibly increase your stitch length to help the fabric move through your machine.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

You can see here how the edge of the collar and front band match up at the corner of the 1/2″ seam allowance. This is how you know that your collar and band will both meet exactly at the corner of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Collar | Grainline Studio

Your collar is now attached! Next up, assembling and attaching the hood.

 

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Today we’re turning our coat pieces into something you can actually wear, side seams & sleeves! Begin by sewing the coat fronts and backs together (with right sides facing of course) at the side seams and sleeves.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Press both your shoulder and side seams open. Set the body aside.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

To sew the sleeves begin by aligning the outer seam of the upper and lower sleeve pieces. Pin in place making sure you’ve matched any plaids, stripes, or prints if you have them. Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Stitch along that seam and press the seam allowance open. As usual I’m pressing my wool on the wool side of my ham.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Next align the inner seam, again matching anything that needs to be matched, and stitch along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Press this seam open as well. This step will be accomplished much more easily with the aid of a seam roll.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

You will now have this beautiful little sleeve. Our next step is to place two lines of basting stitches around the cap of the sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

The basting lines should run between the front and back notches up around the cap of the sleeve. Since we’re working with 1/2″ seam allowances I recommend placing the first line at approximately 3/8″ and the second at 5/8″ this way the sleeve cap gathering is held in place on either side of your stitching line which makes it much harder to get any tucks in your cap.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

With the right sides of the sleeve and the coat facing begin pinning the coat and sleeve layers together. Begin with the side seam of the coat which will match to the underarm notch on the sleeve. From there work up matching both the front and back notches of coat and sleeve; the sleeve cap notch will align with the shoulder seam of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

From there place a few pins between the notches as needed using the basting stitches to ease the sleeve cap into the armhole.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Stitch around the armhole and remove your basting stitches. Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Cascade Sew-Along: Side Seams & Sleeves

Your coat now has sleeves! It will look a little funny if you try it on since we haven’t pressed the bands down the front of the coat yet, we’re saving that for after we insert the lining. We’ve not got something decidedly coat like at this point and I’m sure you are now starting to feel like we’re nearing the finish line. Next up are two posts about finishing that neckline. The first will be assembling and attaching the collar, and the second for the hood. See you back here for those next week!

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Today we’ll be attaching the toggles to the coat. Begin by placing your clasped toggles across the front of your coat to double check that the toggle strap length is correct before they’re permanently affixed to your coat. You want the toggles to clasp tightly across the front of the coat, especially if the cord is leather since it can tend to stretch with wear. If you need to make any adjustments to the placement do that now.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

You’ll want to make sure you’re working with a leather needle if you’re sewing leather. The sharp tip of a leather needle is shaped a bit like a knife allowing it to easily slice through the leather without skipping stitches like you would with a regular needle.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

I recommend sewing one test toggle if you’re sewing through leather. It feels a bit different running through your machine than regular fabric and since leather doesn’t heal after you puncture it like fabric does, once you’ve pierced it the hole is permanent. You’ll want temporarily affix your toggles to the fabric using either tape or a fabric glue stick so that the toggle doesn’t move around while sewing.

Please note: If you are making your toggles with the suede side of your leather facing up do not use tape. Get a glue stick. You guys know I’m not really into buying extra things when you can get away with using something you have but trust me on this. I taped the first of the Pendleton toggles (shown at the bottom of this post) and it took me about 15 min and lots of silent yelling to get the tape off of one toggle tab. There also may be a small piece stuck under the stitching that I have decided I can live with…maybe.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Practice stitching around the toggle until you get a feel for how the leather moves under your machine. This also lets you test out how far in from the edge you like the stitching to fall.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Once you’ve got your stitching worked out you can go to town on your actual toggles. I like to start with the loop side of the closures but it doesn’t matter which side you sew first. Don’t backtack through the leather, instead leave a long thread tail and start at one of the corners which we’ll tie off later to keep the stitching in place. Sew the straight edge, then curve around the back to where you started. When you get to the end, again do not backstitch and leave another long thread tail.

You’ll notice the green foot on my machine above, it’s a Teflon foot. Leather can be sticky on the bottom of your foot but the Teflon foot lets it slide smoothly. You can alternately try a walking foot or some people like putting scotch tape on the bottom of their regular foot. That works but I don’t like the fact that the tape can leave a residue on the bottom of my foot. Bernina feet can be a bit expensive so I like to take a bit more care with them.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

After you’ve cut your threads, pull the front threads to the back of the garment and tie everything off to secure your stitching.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Sew all three toggles on that side in the same manner as the first.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Repeat these steps for the other side of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

All your toggles are now attached!

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

For View A we sized the toggles down a bit and shaped them into triangles to go with the print of the Pendleton Wool. The toggle buttons are actually antlers too which is so awesome! When I saw them show up on Sara’s Instagram I immediately contacted Fancy Tiger so I could have some of my own. I think they’re perfect for this coat!

Next up, sewing the side seams & inserting your sleeves.

 

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Today we’ll be attaching the front bands for View B including the zipper panels. Remember, either view can be made with or without the zipper so don’t feel like just because I’ve omitted them in View A and used them in View B that you need to do the same.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Lets start with the right side of the zipper band. Align the zipper along the edge of the band with the right sides facing each other and baste the two layers together. When stitching you’ll want to fold the edge of the zipper over at the end so that the excess tape doesn’t get stuck in the top seam of the zipper band. You can see how I did this in the photo above.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Repeat this step for the other side of the zipper.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now place the other layer of the zipper band over top of the ones you just made creating a sandwich with the right sides of the bands facing and the zipper between. Pin.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the top, zipper side, and bottom. Grade your seam allowances.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Repeat for the other side of the zipper. Turn your bands right side out and press. Zip the two sides together to make sure that your tops and bottoms align. Once you’ve done that and everything is in its proper place, run a line of stitching along the open edges of the bands so that the two layers act as one while attaching it to the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Assemble your front bands using the instructions in the previous post Front Bands: View A.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll attach the bands to the front of the coat. Begin by aligning one of the bands with the interfaced side facing towards the coat. You’ll want the finished edges of the band to sit 1/2″ from either edge of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Stitch the band to the coat at approximately 1/4″ so that the stitching line falls inside of the 1/2″ seam allowance. You can alternately change your machine to a larger basting stitch if you prefer rather than stitching inside the 1/2″ seam allowance. I don’t like removing stitching so that’s why I always stitch inside the seam allowance. 1/4″ allows me to still grade the seam without the tedious basting stitch removal.

Stitch the band to the coat at approximately 1/4" so that the stitching line falls inside of the 1/2" seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now place the right zipper band on top of the band you just stitched to the coat. This is the size of the zipper with the pull. Align the band 1/2″ from the top of the front band and pin in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline StudioCascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Head over to your machine to stitch the zipper band to the coat. You may want to increase your stitch length as I did to help your machine more easily get through so many layers of fabric.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now align the two halves of the coat front and transfer the placement of the right zipper band over to the left side of the coat. Pin the band in place between these markings and stitch the zipper down inside of the 1/4″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Once the zipper band is in place, repeat the previous step marking the placement of the front band. As with the right band you’ll want the left band to fall 1/2″ inside of each end of the coat front but more important is the fact that both bands line up. You can always slightly fudge the seam allowance and nobody will be the wiser as long as the bands line up. Stitch through all layers at the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

You’ll now want to lay out your coat fronts next to each other and make sure that everything is properly aligned. Zip the zipper and give that a check as well. If anything needs to be adjusted you can do that now before we attach the toggles in the next post.

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A | Grainline Studio

I’m showing View A in the sew along without the zipper. It feels a little less formal to me and when I’m wearing a short jacket I’m not as concerned with it closing as tightly as I am with a longer coat. To assemble the bands for View A begin by taking your interfaced bands and laying them out to double check that you have two opposite bands as above.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Fold the bands in half with right sides together so that the raw edges touch and stitch the short ends together. Your interfacing will cross the halfway mark, this is not an error. This reinforces the edge and helps keep it strong and in its proper shape.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Snip the corners and grade the fused seams.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Turn the bands right side out and press the edges you just sewed as well as the center front fold line nice and flat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Run a line of stitching along the open edges of the bands at approx. 1/4″ so that it falls inside of the seam line.  This makes the two layers act as one when you attach them to the front of the jacket.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Line your bands up with the side of the jacket just to double check that everything lines up as you expected.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Pin the front bands to the front of the jacket making sure that the band falls short of the edges of the jacket by 1/2″ on either side of the band.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Stitch the two bands into place along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Next Up: Attaching the front closures for View B

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Cascade Coat Pattern Update

Hey there guys. I’m completely crushed to report that there is an error in pieces 28 & 29 on View B of the pattern. I’ve uploaded a 5 page PDF update for the two pieces which you can download below. The center front bands of View B are slightly too long on sizes 0-14, evening out to the correct length at size 18. The silver lining I suppose is that nothing is too short which means that you can just trim off the excess without wasting any fabric. This mistake happened during the final layout of the pattern for print & pdf which is how we missed it during the extensive testing process, because it didn’t exist at that point. We strive for professional, easy to use patterns and I apologize wholeheartedly for this error.

Download the Updated Pieces 28 & 29 Here

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