Journal Entry

Maritime Journal Posts

Grainline Studio | Maritime Journal Posts

Original Post | Introducing the Maritime Shorts

Just like we did for the Lakeside, I want to point you in the direction of some older Maritime Shorts posts you may find interesting. The above post is the first post we did when introducing the new pattern.

Grainline Studio | Maritime Journal Posts

Original Post | Concave & Convex Curves

A lot of people have a hard time when sewing the two pocket pieces together on these shorts because the cut edge of the two pieces are different lengths. This post explains why that doesn’t matter it’s the seam lines you want to be the same length!

Grainline Studio | Maritime Journal Posts

Original Post | Sewing Tutorial | Inserting a Fly Front Zipper

In this post we walk you through the steps of inserting a fly front zipper with full color photos. All the steps are the same as in the illustrated instructions but sometimes it helps to see actual photos.

Grainline Studio | Maritime Journal Posts

Original Post | Denim Maritime Shorts Variation

This post is a style variation on the original shorts pattern which I explain how to do in the following two posts.

Grainline Studio | Maritime Journal Posts

Original Post | Pattern Tutorial | Maritime Shorts Variation

Grainline Studio | Maritime Journal Posts

Original Post | Sewing Tutorial | Maritime Shorts Variation

That’s it, hope you’ve found these posts interesting or helpful!

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Uncategorized

Lakeside Journal Posts

Lakeside Pajama Post Roundup | Grainline Studio

Original Post | New Pattern, Lakeside Pajamas!

Since we now have the Lakeside Pajamas in print I wanted to do a little roundup of our previous Lakeside posts on the blog since some of them happened quite a while ago. So without further ado, here they are!

Lakeside Pajamas | Grainline Studio

Original Post | My Lakeside Pajamas

First up is a little bit of Lakeside inspiration with my original pair of pajamas made for the pattern release. I used an amazing Derek Lam cotton that has the most comfortable drape and feel. I know a lot of you guys bought this fabric also back when it was available so you know what I’m talking about!

Sewing Tutorial | Lakeside Pajamas Bias Binding | Grainline Studio

Original Post | Sewing Tutorial | Lakeside Pajama Shorts Binding

The trickiest thing about the Lakeside is the binding on the shorts, but if you find that intimidating we have a great step-by-step photo tutorial to guide you through.

Pajama Party | Grainline Studio

Original Post | Pajama Party

If you’re looking for more Lakeside inspiration this is the post that started it all. Back when I used to do handmade seasonal wardrobes I made these two sets of pajamas. They’re a bit different than the current pattern, the main difference being that the tops pictured above don’t have bust darts, but they’re very similar.

Hope that gives you an easy guided tour through our past Lakeside Pajama posts!

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News

Grainline Studio Shipping Update

Grainline Studio Vacation

Have a great holiday weekend to those of you having one. See you next week!!

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News

New in the Shop

New Printed Patterns | Grainline Studio

I’m excited to announce that we finally have the Maritime Shorts and Lakeside Pajamas in print! In addition to that the Alder and Scout printed patterns are now back in stock. In addition to the new patterns we’ve created a few summer pattern bundles which will give you the option of picking up a few wardrobe builders at a bit of a discount (10-20%).

I’ll have a roundup of all Lakeside and Maritime posts later in the week for a bit of inspiration in case you’re new to these parts or missed them over the past few years!

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Sew & Tell

Sew & Tell | Kelly of Cut Cut Sew

Sew & Tell Kelly of Cut Cut Sew | Grainline Studio

Sew & Tell Kelly of Cut Cut Sew

We always love seeing what Kelly does with the Grainline patterns. Her garments are always perfectly finished, she has a great eye for fabric, and her blog is so fun to read! We were floored when we saw this blazer. We love the color, fabric, and the fit. It’s a great piece and we had to find out what Kelly had to say about it!

Name   Kelly Costas

Where can we find you online?   Cut Cut Sew

Link to your post about this project   Twill Morris Blazer

Which pattern did you use?   Morris Blazer

What type of fabric or other materials did you use?

I used a really nice stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics that has been in my stash for a while. I had used it previously for a jacket and loved it so much that I bought another couple of yards…I am tempted to get more but I think it would be a little weird if I make my entire wardrobe out of the same fabric!

Sew & Tell Kelly of Cut Cut Sew | Grainline Studio

Tell us about your project!

I have been patiently waiting for the Morris pattern to come out, and couldn’t wait to sew it up! I made my usual Grainline size (2) and didn’t make any changes to the pattern. I enjoyed the whole process- it is really fun and quick to sew, doesn’t use a lot of fabric, and the result is so wearable. Mostly I have been throwing it on over a t-shirt or tank with jeans, and it just makes me feel so cool! I recently bought some stretch wool suiting for a basic black version, and I have a really cool shibori-type print stretch cotton sateen for another…I think it’s safe to say there will be quite a few more Morris blazers in my closet soon! Thanks for such a great pattern Jen!

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Morris Sew Along

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

We’re now onto the last step of our Morris Blazers, attaching the sleeve facings. To begin, sew the edges of each facing together, press the seams open, and grade the seam allowance.

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

Next sew the narrower edge of the facing to the edge of the sleeve with the underarm seams aligned. Grade the seam allowance by trimming the facing seam allowance in half.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Press the sleeve facing and seam allowance away from the sleeve.

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

Next understitch along the edge of the facing, this will help turn the seam line to the inside of the sleeve.

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

Turn the sleeve inside out and press up the 1/2″ seam allowance on the raw edge of the facing.

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

Then press the entire facing up to the wrong side of the sleeve. Pin in place and stitch along the edge of the facing to secure it to the sleeve.

Morris Sew-Along: Sleeve Facings | Grainline Studio

That’s it, you’ve successfully made a Morris Blazer!

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Morris Sew Along

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

We’re now going to attach the facing we made yesterday to the blazer. Start by aligning the center back seams of the blazer and facing with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. From there match the lapel points and pin between them and the center back seam.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Next we’re going to align the center fronts of the blazer. Rather than pinning the hem point and then pinning between the hem and lapel points as we did in the above step, lay each piece out flat and pin from the lapel point down to the hem point. You don’t want to ease at this point of the construction. This is also where, if you’re using a fabric with lengthwise stretch, fusing the front of the blazer with a piece of fusible cut from the facing pattern piece wouldn’t hurt.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Pin around the hem matching the center back and side seams. Stitch around the outside of the blazer with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Clip your corners and grade the seam allowance of the facing all the way around the blazer.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowance of the hem of the blazer towards the hem facing.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

You’re now going to understitch along the hem facing from one end of the facing to the other. It will be hard to stitch into the corners but just get as close as you can.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Next working around the blazer, press the facings to the inside and pin in place.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

You’re now going to stitch along the outside of the blazer to secure the facings. I like to start at the center back so that the back tack ends up in a place people aren’t as likely to see. Stitch along the top edge of the facing, pivoting down towards the hem at the point where the hem and front facing meet, then continue around the blazer stitching as close to the edge as you like. I did 1/8″ here but if you don’t feel comfortable stitching that close try a 1/4″ stitching line.

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Attaching the Facing | Grainline Studio

The last step you’ll need to do for your facing to be completely attached is to tack down the back neckline between the shoulder seams. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch or by stitching in the ditch with your machine, which I did in the second photo above.

The last step is up next, finishing the sleeve hems with facings!

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Morris Sew Along

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Today we’re going to assemble the main facing that finishes the collar and hem. Begin by taking your two front facing pieces and stitching them together along the center back seam.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Press the seam allowance open and grade it in half.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

This is an alternative to the finishing method in the booklet, instead of turning the raw edge under along the inner edge of the front facing in step 13, that I used on the original blazer. If you serge around that edge you’ll get a clean finish and you won’t need to fold the fabric under. There really is no difference between the two, so it’s up to you which you’d like to do. Not everyone has a serger though so I wanted to include the folding technique in the booklet.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

If you are folding the edge under, press the 1/2″ seam allowance to the wrong side of the garment. This is the smooth side without the lapel points. It’s slightly narrower in this photo because of the line of serging that went around first.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

To assemble the hem facing, stitch the front hem facings to the back hem facing at the side seams.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Press the seam allowances open and grade.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Fold the top 1/2″ seam allowance of the hem facing over. You don’t need to stitch this down at this point, we’re just setting the pressing line for when we anchor the facing to the blazer. I like to do this here because it’s easier to do when the facing is unattached and you’re not dealing with the entire blazer on the board.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Now this is probably the most confusing part of the whole blazer, but I found in my class at Fancy Tiger that if you lay everything out right side up as it will appear when finished you can cut the rate of error to basically zero. So, lay the front facing out right side up with the lapel points to the outside and then place the hem facing right side up on top of it as shown in the photo above.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

You’ll be attaching these two edges to each other.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Align the edges as shown above and stitch from the lower point of the facings up to the top edge of the hem facing, stopping at the folded edge. This point is marked above with an X.

Morris Sew-Along: Making the Facing

Press your seam allowance open and repeat these steps for the other side of the facing. If you folded the edge of the front facing under earlier you’ll now want to place a line of stitching around the folded edge to keep it anchored under. This is on the front facing only, do not stitch along the folded edge of the hem facing.

You’ve now completed your main facing for the blazer. In the next post we’ll attach it to the blazer.

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Morris Sew Along

Morris Sew-Along: Setting Your Sleeves

Morris Sew-Along: Setting your Sleeves | Grainline Studio

To begin the process of inserting your sleeves we first need to assemble the sleeves. Start by sewing the underarm seam of each sleeve, finish the seam as desired (I serged mine) and press them towards the back of the garment.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Next you’re going to place two lines of basting stitches to help gather any excess fabric into the armhole starting at one set of lower notches, stitching up through the top notch, and back down to the other lower notch. You’ll want the basting stitches to fall at approximately 3/8″ and 5/8″ from the raw edge of the sleeve cap so that you are sewing between them when you set your sleeve.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Pin the sleeve to the armhole with the right side of the sleeve touching the right side of the armhole. You’re going to fist pin the underarm of the sleeve to the side seam of the blazer, then work around matching the front and back notches as well as the top notch of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the blazer. Once you have those main points pinned, begin working around the gathered cap of the sleeve pulling on the basting threads you placed in the last step to help ease in the sleeve cap. Once you have the sleeve cap in place you’re going to stitch around the armhole.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

You can see you’ll have some visible basting threads once you’ve set your sleeve, you’ll need to pull those out. I also remove the line of basting that falls to the inside of the sleeve.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

You can then finish your sleeve seam allowance as desired. Like almost all my seams, I serge these together.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Typically I don’t press my sleeve caps as I find it flattens them out a lot of the time, but you can give yours a light steam if you’d like. I like the seam allowance to fall to the sleeve rather than the blazer. Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.

Next we’ll be assembling and attaching the facing for the body of the blazer. Stay tuned!

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Morris Sew Along

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Today we’re going to work through Morris Blazer steps 1-8 in the pattern booklet. Begin by fusing all of your interfacing to the corresponding pieces. You don’t need to do this immediately but I prefer to get it out of the way at the beginning of the project so you don’t have to stand around fusing later on.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

 

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

With the right sides of the two back pieces facing each other, sew along the center back seam. Finish the seam with your favorite finishing method – I like to serge – and press the seam allowance to one side of the garment.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Next we’ll sew the side seams so with right sides together align the front and back side seams and stitch. Finish your seam allowance and press it towards the back of the blazer.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Now we’re going to sew the shoulder seams – this is step 4 in your pattern booklet. You could to the next few steps in one pass, pivoting at the corner and continuing along the back neckline but I find doing this as a two step process yields better results for the majority of people. Pivoting is kind of a pain honestly and this makes things super easy.

Align the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces starting at the armhole edge and working in towards the neckline / shawl collar. You’re going to sew from the outer armhole edge to the dot marked on your pattern. In case you forgot to mark that dot, don’t worry. You’re just sewing to a point 1/2″ in from the shoulder / shawl collar intersection in either direction. The above photos illustrate from either side of the garment what your seam should look like once you’re done.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

After the shoulders seams are sewn you’ll want to sew the center back seam of the shawl collar. Place the right sides of the collar together, sew, then press the seam allowance open.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Now on the front pieces of the blazer only cut from the shawl / shoulder corner to, but not through, the point where the stitching ends.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Now we’re going to attach the shawl collar to the neckline – step 7 in your instruction booklet. Begin by matching the center back seam line of the collar and blazer back with right sides facing each other. Then spread the corner you just clipped and align the back neckline between the corner and center with each other.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Now you’re going to sew the back neckline seam from one corner to another. I’m going to illustrate sewing from one corner to the other, but you can alternately sew out to each corner from the center back if you find it easier to end in an corner than start in one.

Begin by setting your needle down directly into the last stitch of the shoulder seam, making sure you aren’t catching any extra fabric in the corner.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the center back until you reach the other corner. Make sure the fabric is aligned smoothly so no tucks will be created when you stitch into the corner. Once you reach the back corner do a small back tack to secure your collar. Clip all threads.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

This is what you’ll be looking at once you’re done stitching across the back neckline.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Now finish the shoulder seams and grade the center back neckline seam allowance of the collar piece. Leave the neckline unfinished since it will later be sealed up.

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Morris Sew-Along: Assembling the Body | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowance of the back neckline up towards the collar. This will force the seam allowance of the shoulders to want to also go forward. Typically I press all seam allowances towards the back of the garment but since the natural tendency of the shoulder seam is to roll forward in this case I do press it forward.

That’s all for the body, next up we’ll be making and setting the sleeves.

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