Journal Entry

Spring Grainline Studio Update

Grainline Studio | Spring Update

Hey guys, apologies for being MIA lately here on the blog. I’m in super crunch time with something I’ve had in the works for a while now – printed patterns and a complete shop relaunch. I’ll be releasing my first printed pattern in a few weeks as well as re-launching the shop with newly laid out PDF patterns which will all include a copy shop version as well as the typical print at home version. I also wanted to give you a heads up that I’ll be raising some of my prices slightly to compete with the market of independent patterns and will be retiring – at least temporarily – the Kat Strapless Dress, so if you’ve been on the fence on that one you’ve got until around June 1st to grab it. It’s only graded up to size 12 and it’s just something I’m not going to be able to get done in the near future.

Anyway, I’m hoping to get back here with a Me Made May update soon, I’ve been learning a ton about my wardrobe, like the fact that I have no bottoms that aren’t a Moss skirt or Maritime shorts. Normally that wouldn’t be a problem but it’s been a cold spring, right now I’m wearing a scarf & hat! Till then you can follow along on Instagram (@grainlinestudio) with Me Made May updates, peeks at all the changes happening behind the scenes here, Roamy, etc.

26 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Journal Entry

Me Made May 2014

Okay so this is totally last minute, it’s 11:55 and I’m typing this on my phone in bed but through the powers of Instagram I was convinced by Kelly of Cut Cut Sew to participate in Me Made May. I’ve done absolutely no planning for this month so it could get a little weird. Can one wear an Archer as a top and another Archer as pants? Yikes!! Without further ado (and bc my codeine laced cough medicine is kicking in) I present my Me Made May pledge.

I, Jen (grainlinestudio.com), sign up as a participant of Me Made May 2014. I endeavor to wear a me-made garment at least 5 days a week. 

Thats the plan. I’ll be posting on Instagram (@grainlinestudio) and maybe a roundup here later on. I definitely need to work on my bottoms situation as well but I may not have time to get to that this month. Hopefully I did that right! Now off to bed for me to start dreaming up tomorrow’s outfit!

Are you guys taking part this year?

14 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Tips & Tricks

French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

01

As a follow up to Monday’s post on French seams I wanted to post how to deal with seam allowances that differ from my tutorial since I’ve gotten a lot of questions about this. The three pieces above have a 1/4″ seam allowance, a 1/2″ seam allowance, and a 5/8″ seam allowance. Basically when you do a French seam, you’re going to first stitch half of the seam allowance for the first seam (with wrong sides facing of course), but in situations such as a 5/8″ seam allowance stitching at 5/16″ is just not going to happen, nor does it need to. Stitch 3/8″ for that first seam.

Grainline Studio | French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

From there press the seam open and trim the seam allowances in half. From left to right the original seam allowances are as follows… 5/8″ – 1/2″ – 1/4″

Grainline Studio | French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

Press the seam with right sides facing to enclose the seam allowances. You’ll be stitching the 5/8″ seam allowance at 1/4″, the 1/2″ seam allowance also at 1/4″, and the 1/4″ seam allowance at 1/8″

Grainline Studio | French Seams on Various Seam Allowances

From left to right above we have the finished 1/4″ seam allowance, the 1/2″ seam allowance, and the 5/8″ seam allowance. Hope this clears things up a bit on various seam allowances.

 

 

7 Comments Posted in Tips & Tricks
Sewing Tutorials

French All Your Seams

 

If you’ve been following along for a while, you may remember this post, but I’ve been getting a lot of French seam questions lately so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to resurrect this tutorial from the blog archives and set it free a second time. I’m first going to do a run through of the french seam and then will show you how to apply it to the armhole.

Just a few notes before we begin… 1. french seams are usually best used on light to medium weight fabric. 2. French seams require you to split your seam allowance in two parts. This tutorial is done using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but if you are working with a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the first seam at 3/8″ and the second at 1/4″. I’ve tried to notate where this applies. With that, lets get to it! Click through to view the tutorial.

Continue reading

22 Comments Posted in Sewing Tutorials
Sewing Tutorials

Madewell Scout Variation: Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

Alright, here we go with the sewing portion of the Madewell Scout Variation. If you missed the pattern tutorial you can find it here. For this tutorial you’ll need the following supplies…

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Start sewing according to the Scout Tee instructions. The original Madewell top has faux flat felled seams throughout the garment. To achieve this finish, begin by sewing your seam as normal.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Serge your seam (alternately you can use a pinking shears or zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to keep the fabric from fraying), press the seam allowance to one side, and stitch through the seam allowance and top 1/4″ from the seam, anchoring the seam allowance. This is a faux flat felled seam.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next we’ll tackle the front V opening. We’re going to do finish this opening much the way you would finish a continuous sleeve placket. To start, clip to, but not through, the point you marked as the point of your V.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Cut a strip of 1″ wide bias tape long enough to span the opening. You can see in the above photo that the bias tape and seam allowance of the V meet except for a small wedge in the center by my thumb. This is the part without proper seam allowance that you clipped open in the above step, it will sit 1/4″ away from the edge of the bias binding. Sew from one edge to the other making sure to catch the tip of the V at the center. For more detailed instructions on sewing a continuous sleeve placket, see this tutorial.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next grade the seams and press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the top.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Understitch and fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment. Press the raw edge of the binding under and pin.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Sew along the edge of the binding. Now you have your V opening!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

To finish the rest of the neckline, you’ll follow the instructions included with the Scout with this one exception. When you get to the edges of the V opening, leave a bit of fabric over the edge as in the lower edge in the photo. This will be tucked up into the binding creating a finished the finished edge at the top of this photo.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Now to create the sleeve cuff. Insert your sleeves according to the directions in the Scout instructions. Fold up the sleeve along the new sleeve length line you marked on the pattern. Give the folded edge a good press.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Fold under your 1/4″ hem allowance along the raw edge, press.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Next fold down the 1/2″ hem and press in place.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Fold the hem edge down to meet the new sleeve length you pressed earlier.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

 

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.

Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.

Fold the sleeve down and out of the way, stitch along the edge of the hem anchoring the hem in place. You may want to do a small bar tack at the underarm of the cuff to keep it from folding down while being worn.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Sewing Tutorial

Give your cuffs and shirt a final press and you’re done!

 

 

 

 

16 Comments Posted in Sewing Tutorials
Pattern Tutorials

Madewell Scout Variation: Pattern Tutorial

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

As promised, here is the first tutorial in making the Scout Tee Madewell variation. I broke this down into two sections because it was getting pretty long as one post. For this variation tutorial you will need the following things…

  • Scout Tee Pattern
  • Rulers (straight and curved)
  • Pencil
  • Paper

You can click the below images to see a larger version if needed.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Pattern Tutorial

Figure 1

  • You’re going to need to first lengthen the sleeve. Decide how long you want your finished sleeve to be, this will be the length from the sleeve cap to the first line in the illustration above, new sleeve length.
  • Decide how wide you want your cuffs to be, mine are 1.5″ wide. Measure down that distance from the new sleeve length line, this is the first fold line. Measure down the same distance again to create the second fold line. This is your cuff.
  • Now to create the hem measure down 1/2″ from the second fold line. This will fold to the underside of the cuff, ensuring the cuff has no stitching lines.
  • From there measure down another 1/4″ hem seam allowance which you will fold under while hemming the sleeve.
  • The width of the bottom of my cuff is 16″ including seam allowance.

Figure 2

  • For the center front piece we’re going to need to create a new neckline. Raise the front of the neckline to the desired height, I raised mine 2.5″ then reblend the neckline.

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation | Pattern Tutorial

Figure 3

  • Measure down from the center front neckline to the point you’d like the opening to start, mine was 5.5″ down.
  • Next measure over from the center front neckline 3/4″ and connect that point with the point you marked in the above step to create the neckline wedge. Add 1/4″ seam allowance to the line you just drew.
  • Curve the hem of the shirt, I marked a point 2′ up from the bottom edge of the side seam and blended to the center front.

Figure 4

  • Do the same to the hem of the center back pattern piece so that both the front and back have a curved hem.

That’s it for the pattern section. For the sewing tutorial click here!

9 Comments Posted in Pattern Tutorials
News

Grainline Studio on Marketplace

Grainline Studio | Marketplace Feature

I’m so excited to share this news, I was interviewed for Marketplace a bit back and my piece aired yesterday! I was totally nervous to see what made the cut into the final interview, the interview I did down at WBEZ was about a half hour long. It was really strange, sitting in a little sound proof room with fancy headphones on and a little round microphone, talking to them in LA, especially since I was super nervous! Anyway I’m super happy with how the little piece turned out, especially all the little sound effects, which are actually me working! They sent someone over to my house to record me working, (Bill Healy, who it turns out is an award winning  journalist and sound recorder so he was totally overqualified) and that part was really really fun. I had to keep making the loudest noises I could with my tools on repeat…it was pretty hard not to laugh.

Anyway, you can listen to the finished piece below or click over to their site to listen there, hope you enjoy and also get a sense of just how much I love my job making patterns for all of you. And me, my wardrobe definitely benefits. Ha!

56 Comments Posted in News
Sewn Garments

Spring ’14 Wardrobe: Madewell Scout Variation

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

Hey guys! I’m back today with another Spring ’14 Wardrobe post. I’ve been a bit slow on the spring wardrobe making, but then again, it’s April 16th and the snow from the other day just melted. Either I’m waiting for spring to finish this wardrobe or spring is waiting for me, and if it’s the latter, I apologize wholeheartedly!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

This top is based on a top that Madewell has been carrying for the past few seasons, but I kind of hate the way most Madewell shirts fit me so I never purchased it despite trying it on a few times. I figured I could make an easy job of this style by starting with the Scout Tee pattern and doing a few easy tweaks. It would have been an hour or two project except that I photographed every step to give you guys a tutorial! Yess!!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

It took me SO long to photograph this tutorial, but it was also really really fun. I discovered there’s an iPhone app for my camera that acts as a wireless remote soooo that meant I could put my camera on a tripod, use both my hands to handle the fabric in the photo and then use my big toe to trip the shudder! WHOOO technology!!

Grainline Studio | Madewell Scout Variation

I really love how this shirt turned out, and the fabric is no small part of it. The folks at Robert Kauffman were kind enough to send me some of their 6.5oz denim for this and another project and I have to say, it’s the perfect weight for a denim garment! I’m kind of a big fan of this stuff from way back when, last summer I made a Moss skirt & Maritime shorts out of it, and my couch *might* be covered in it as well. Anyway, I love the way it sews up and can’t wait to show you the second project in a few weeks!

If you’d like to make your own with the Scout Tee pattern check out the pattern and sewing tutorials!

27 Comments Posted in Sewn Garments
Journal Entry

Moss Making Month

Grainline Studio | Moss Making Month

I’m a few days late on posting this but Stephanie at Makes the Things and Sara at An Elemental Life have declared April Moss Making Month! I’m pumped, these girls are always making stuff that I covet and I’m sure their Moss skirts will be no exception. You can follow along with them on Instagram by tagging #mossmakingmonth or following them on Instagram (makesthethings and anelementallife), don’t forget to tag #grainlinestudio and #mossskirt so I can see what you’re making as well if you join in! I’m hoping to get a Moss or two made myself since I basically lived in mine last summer. Hope you join in!

11 Comments Posted in Journal Entry
Tips & Tricks

Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

I was cutting out this sweatshirt over the weekend and ended up trying a few different layouts before I settled on the one that worked. I thought I would show the difference in yardage needed to cut this pattern with the fabric folded vs. the fabric flat.

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

Home sewing patterns have you cut your pieces out on the fold, cutting goes more quickly this way since you’re only cutting half, and the fabric fits more easily the size tables most people have in their homes. Unfortunately it’s almost never the most effective way to a great fabric yield. With this first method, fabric folded selvage to selvage I’m about  1/4 yd short.

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

With the selvages folded towards the center I can fit both front and back on the fold but only one sleeve. So close yet so far!

Grainline Studio | Tips & Tricks | Cutting Fabric Folded vs. Flat

With the fabric laid out flat everything fits perfectly since you’re not wasting any of the fabric by folding it over. To make the full pattern I just traced the front and back pattern pieces on a folded piece of large white butcher paper and then traced an extra sleeve. Moral of the story, if you’re a tiny bit short on fabric  and you’re really dead set on using it, or if you’re just obsessed with yield like I am, try laying it out flat…you may be able to get it to fit!

40 Comments Posted in Tips & Tricks