Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Today we’ll be attaching the toggles to the coat. Begin by placing your clasped toggles across the front of your coat to double check that the toggle strap length is correct before they’re permanently affixed to your coat. You want the toggles to clasp tightly across the front of the coat, especially if the cord is leather since it can tend to stretch with wear. If you need to make any adjustments to the placement do that now.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

You’ll want to make sure you’re working with a leather needle if you’re sewing leather. The sharp tip of a leather needle is shaped a bit like a knife allowing it to easily slice through the leather without skipping stitches like you would with a regular needle.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

I recommend sewing one test toggle if you’re sewing through leather. It feels a bit different running through your machine than regular fabric and since leather doesn’t heal after you puncture it like fabric does, once you’ve pierced it the hole is permanent. You’ll want temporarily affix your toggles to the fabric using either tape or a fabric glue stick so that the toggle doesn’t move around while sewing.

Please note: If you are making your toggles with the suede side of your leather facing up do not use tape. Get a glue stick. You guys know I’m not really into buying extra things when you can get away with using something you have but trust me on this. I taped the first of the Pendleton toggles (shown at the bottom of this post) and it took me about 15 min and lots of silent yelling to get the tape off of one toggle tab. There also may be a small piece stuck under the stitching that I have decided I can live with…maybe.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Practice stitching around the toggle until you get a feel for how the leather moves under your machine. This also lets you test out how far in from the edge you like the stitching to fall.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Once you’ve got your stitching worked out you can go to town on your actual toggles. I like to start with the loop side of the closures but it doesn’t matter which side you sew first. Don’t backtack through the leather, instead leave a long thread tail and start at one of the corners which we’ll tie off later to keep the stitching in place. Sew the straight edge, then curve around the back to where you started. When you get to the end, again do not backstitch and leave another long thread tail.

You’ll notice the green foot on my machine above, it’s a Teflon foot. Leather can be sticky on the bottom of your foot but the Teflon foot lets it slide smoothly. You can alternately try a walking foot or some people like putting scotch tape on the bottom of their regular foot. That works but I don’t like the fact that the tape can leave a residue on the bottom of my foot. Bernina feet can be a bit expensive so I like to take a bit more care with them.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

After you’ve cut your threads, pull the front threads to the back of the garment and tie everything off to secure your stitching.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Sew all three toggles on that side in the same manner as the first.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Repeat these steps for the other side of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

All your toggles are now attached!

Cascade Sew-Along: Attaching your Toggles

For View A we sized the toggles down a bit and shaped them into triangles to go with the print of the Pendleton Wool. The toggle buttons are actually antlers too which is so awesome! When I saw them show up on Sara’s Instagram I immediately contacted Fancy Tiger so I could have some of my own. I think they’re perfect for this coat!

Next up, sewing the side seams & inserting your sleeves.

 

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Today we’ll be attaching the front bands for View B including the zipper panels. Remember, either view can be made with or without the zipper so don’t feel like just because I’ve omitted them in View A and used them in View B that you need to do the same.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Lets start with the right side of the zipper band. Align the zipper along the edge of the band with the right sides facing each other and baste the two layers together. When stitching you’ll want to fold the edge of the zipper over at the end so that the excess tape doesn’t get stuck in the top seam of the zipper band. You can see how I did this in the photo above.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Repeat this step for the other side of the zipper.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now place the other layer of the zipper band over top of the ones you just made creating a sandwich with the right sides of the bands facing and the zipper between. Pin.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Stitch along the top, zipper side, and bottom. Grade your seam allowances.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Repeat for the other side of the zipper. Turn your bands right side out and press. Zip the two sides together to make sure that your tops and bottoms align. Once you’ve done that and everything is in its proper place, run a line of stitching along the open edges of the bands so that the two layers act as one while attaching it to the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Assemble your front bands using the instructions in the previous post Front Bands: View A.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now we’ll attach the bands to the front of the coat. Begin by aligning one of the bands with the interfaced side facing towards the coat. You’ll want the finished edges of the band to sit 1/2″ from either edge of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Stitch the band to the coat at approximately 1/4″ so that the stitching line falls inside of the 1/2″ seam allowance. You can alternately change your machine to a larger basting stitch if you prefer rather than stitching inside the 1/2″ seam allowance. I don’t like removing stitching so that’s why I always stitch inside the seam allowance. 1/4″ allows me to still grade the seam without the tedious basting stitch removal.

Stitch the band to the coat at approximately 1/4" so that the stitching line falls inside of the 1/2" seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now place the right zipper band on top of the band you just stitched to the coat. This is the size of the zipper with the pull. Align the band 1/2″ from the top of the front band and pin in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline StudioCascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Head over to your machine to stitch the zipper band to the coat. You may want to increase your stitch length as I did to help your machine more easily get through so many layers of fabric.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Now align the two halves of the coat front and transfer the placement of the right zipper band over to the left side of the coat. Pin the band in place between these markings and stitch the zipper down inside of the 1/4″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Once the zipper band is in place, repeat the previous step marking the placement of the front band. As with the right band you’ll want the left band to fall 1/2″ inside of each end of the coat front but more important is the fact that both bands line up. You can always slightly fudge the seam allowance and nobody will be the wiser as long as the bands line up. Stitch through all layers at the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View B | Grainline Studio

You’ll now want to lay out your coat fronts next to each other and make sure that everything is properly aligned. Zip the zipper and give that a check as well. If anything needs to be adjusted you can do that now before we attach the toggles in the next post.

 

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A | Grainline Studio

I’m showing View A in the sew along without the zipper. It feels a little less formal to me and when I’m wearing a short jacket I’m not as concerned with it closing as tightly as I am with a longer coat. To assemble the bands for View A begin by taking your interfaced bands and laying them out to double check that you have two opposite bands as above.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Fold the bands in half with right sides together so that the raw edges touch and stitch the short ends together. Your interfacing will cross the halfway mark, this is not an error. This reinforces the edge and helps keep it strong and in its proper shape.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Snip the corners and grade the fused seams.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Turn the bands right side out and press the edges you just sewed as well as the center front fold line nice and flat.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Run a line of stitching along the open edges of the bands at approx. 1/4″ so that it falls inside of the seam line.  This makes the two layers act as one when you attach them to the front of the jacket.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Line your bands up with the side of the jacket just to double check that everything lines up as you expected.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Pin the front bands to the front of the jacket making sure that the band falls short of the edges of the jacket by 1/2″ on either side of the band.

Cascade Sew-Along: Front Bands View A

Stitch the two bands into place along the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Next Up: Attaching the front closures for View B

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Cascade Coat Pattern Update

Hey there guys. I’m completely crushed to report that there is an error in pieces 28 & 29 on View B of the pattern. I’ve uploaded a 5 page PDF update for the two pieces which you can download below. The center front bands of View B are slightly too long on sizes 0-14, evening out to the correct length at size 18. The silver lining I suppose is that nothing is too short which means that you can just trim off the excess without wasting any fabric. This mistake happened during the final layout of the pattern for print & pdf which is how we missed it during the extensive testing process, because it didn’t exist at that point. We strive for professional, easy to use patterns and I apologize wholeheartedly for this error.

Download the Updated Pieces 28 & 29 Here

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Uncategorized

Cascade Sew-Along Update

Just wanted to let you all know that I haven’t forgotten about the sew-along, just got that lovely flu that’s going around and haven’t been able to post. I’ll be resting up over the weekend and we’ll resume on Monday. Apologies for any trouble or frustration the delay may cause you.

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

I know a lot of you are planning on making your own toggle closures so I thought I’d slip this post in before we attach the button bands so that you’re all ready to go and can sew your toggles on straight after that step. If you need a supply list for making your own toggle closures, please check out this post on gathering your supplies.

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Before you start you’re going to want to lay down some paper to work on top of. Believe me you do not want to super glue anything to your nice table. Okay. You can start by tracing your toggle pattern piece onto heavier paper or just glue it on like I did. This isn’t a necessary step but I find it much easier to trace the toggles onto leather when they’re on thicker paper than the tissue.

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Trace your toggle onto the leather. You’ll need three closures so cut 6 tab shapes out of the leather. I used a sharpie to trace mine on, then just made sure to cut away any markings.

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

You’ll then need to cut your leather lace into the proper length for your closures. To some extent this will depend on the type of toggle button you’re using, how far apart the holes are and how thick the button is, but for mine I found approximately 7″ worked well. When marking how long to make your lacing you’ll want both ends to fall towards the center of the toggle closure with the button hitting in the center of the front band.

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

For the toggle button side of the closure, thread the lacing through the buttons making sure that nothing is twisted.

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Place a dab of your glue in the center of the toggle tab and stick your lacing down. You’ll want to give it a good press to make sure it’s held in place properly but don’t use your finger! Take an old pencil or something you don’t mind super gluing and use that to press it in place.

Cascade Sew-Along: Making Your Own Toggle Closures | Grainline Studio

Repeat the same steps, minus threading the button, for the other side of the toggle closure. Make sure your toggles are completely dry before you attempt to attach them to the coat. I like to let mine dry overnight because better safe than stuck to your coat!

Up next, attaching the front zippers, bands, and the beautiful toggle closures you just made. Stay tuned!

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

In today’s Cascade sew-along post we’ll be assembling the fronts and backs of your coat as well as making and attaching the pockets. Lets dive in! Just a note, I’ll be demonstrating the bulk of the sew along on View A. Since this coat is smaller it fits better into the camera frame and allows us to see the details better. When View B differs from View A I’ll add those instructions in. View B is made in a solid grey wool so you’ll be able to tell which one I’m working on at a glance.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Start out by marking your toggle placement on your front yoke and front body if you haven’t done so already. Since we’re going to be doing a lot to the front of the coat before it comes time to attach the toggles I like to mark the front edges of mine with large hand basting stitch. This stitch is both easy to remove when the time comes and easy to work around up until that point.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

With right sides facing each other align the front yokes and front body pieces.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowances of the yoke edge of the two seams.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Head over to your iron and press the seam allowances up towards the yoke. If you have a sleeve roll you can place it underneath the seam with the wool side facing up. The wool on the sleeve roll will hold heat and steam allowing the seam to set a bit better and crisper as the wool cools. You can also apply pressure to the seam using a press cloth which does the same thing as the wool side of the sleeve roll. Personally I use my palm or inner forearm since they work just as well though I’d recommend that you buy or make yourself a press cloth.

Another thing I like to do in conjunction with this while pressing wool is before pressing straight onto my wool seam, I first give the entire seam a hefty steam from the iron. I will then finger press the wool over to mold it around the seam. Wool loves to be molded with steam, it’s almost more important than heat, and this way you can make sure that everything is in its proper place before you give it a solid iron press.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

After pressing the seam allowance up, topstitch along the yoke side of the seam allowance at 1/4″.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Repeat the previous steps for the back of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

For View B you’ll need to attach the lower body piece. The instructions for doing this are almost identical to the instructions for attaching the yokes. Pin the upper body and lower body together with right sides facing matching notches. Stitch the two layers together.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance of the lower body.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Press the seam allowance down towards the hem of the coat and topstitch the seam on the lower side of the seam.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Repeat these steps to attach the lower portion of the back of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

The next step is to place your pocket interfacing and mark your pocket placement. You’ll want to make sure that the top and sides of the pocket interfacing will extend beyond the top and sides of the pocket by about 1/2″ then fuse it in place according to the instructions included with your fusible.

I then like to draw a line with a ruler between the two pocket placement points on the back of the pocket and place a running stitch between the two points so that you can see the placement on the front of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Now we’re going to construct the pockets. You’ll notice that the pocket and pocket lining are different widths, this is not a mistake, the pocket lining is smaller in order to force the wool over ensuring that the lining isn’t visible when your pocket is sewn in place. Align the two edges of the pocket and pocket lining along the un-notched edge and pin in place. Place a third pin into the center of the layers, you’ll want to evenly ease on either side of the center pin.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Grade the seam allowance of the pocket lining.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Press the lining up away from the pocket run a line of stitching across the lining next to the seam line.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Fold the pocket and lining together so that the right sides of both are facing each other. Since the pocket is longer than the interfacing it creates a small facing at the top of the pocket. You’ll want to make sure that each side of the facing have the same measurement. It should be approximately 1″ though depending on your stitching it could vary by a sixteenth of an inch or so. Just make sure both are even to avoid a lopsided pocket.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

I like to sew the two sides of the pockets separately, I find it’s a bit easier to be accurate this way since you’re stretching the lining to the edge of each side of the pocket. Align the edges of the pocket and lining and pin in place. Stitch from the top edge, down the side and around the bottom of the pocket stopping at the first notch you come to. I like to use this perfect points technique at the corners to get sharper corners that don’t bow out at the sides. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

In these photos you can really see how the wool being larger than the lining will pull the seam line towards the underside of the pocket.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Trim the corners of your pocket and grade the lining seam allowance.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Turn your pocket right side out through the hole you left in the bottom.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Slip stitch the hole closed, then head over to the ironing board and press your pocket flat.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Align your pocket with the pocket placement markings on your coat. Measure over from the center front edge to make sure the pocket is parallel to the front of the coat.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Pin the pocket in place.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Stitch the pocket in place around the sides and bottom following the directional layout of stitching above. The triangle tack at the top of the pockets is optional but it holds the stress of using pockets better than if you just straight stitch around the three sides.

Cascade Sew-Along Day 04: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets | Grainline Studio

Your pockets are now in place and you’re ready for the next step, of attaching the front bands and toggles. We have one post before that happens, how to make your own toggles since a lot of you have mentioned that you’ll be creating your own rather than using pre-made.

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

Today I’ll be guiding you through selecting your size, cutting, and prepping your pieces to begin sewing. Lets start by getting out our pattern booklets and looking at the size chart and finished measurements.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

I’ve highlighted my sizes in the photo above, 2 in the chest, 4 in the waist, and 4 at the hip (thanks yoga!). I could cut between the two sizes but since I wear a lot of oversized tops & bulky sweaters, I’m going to go straight 4.

You’ll notice that the finished measurements include quite a bit of ease from the body measurements. You may have the urge to size down quite a bit, but remember, this is a winter coat that you may want to layer over a sweater. If you’re going to make a muslin for this pattern, I recommend using a fabric with a similar weight to your final fabric if possible. An unlined muslin shell of the coat will feel much looser than the final thick, lined wool (or medium weight twill if you’re going that route).

One thing you’ll want to take into consideration is if you are interlining your coat with Thinsulate or something similar, you will want to go up a size because of the bulk involved. Trust me, I learned the hard way.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

This coat has a lot of pattern pieces, 40 in total, but luckily you don’t need all of them if you’re only making 1 version of the Cascade.

  • No matter whether you’re making A or B you’ll need all the pieces found in the section labeled Pattern Inventory Views A & B, which is pieces 1-14 and piece 40 if you’re making your own toggles.
  • For View A you’ll additionally need the pieces in Pattern Inventory View A, pieces 15-25.
  • For View B you’ll additionally need the pieces in Pattern Inventory View B, pieces 26-39.

I find it helpful to cut all the pattern pieces out and then sort them into piles based on what fabric you’re cutting them from. I would have a pile for self, a pile for lining, a pile for contrast (because I’ll be using contrasting fabric on my zipper bands and hood lining), and a pile for interfacing. 4 total types of pieces. Some are cut from more than one fabric, in that case start them out with the pieces you’ll be cutting first, then move them over to the next pile when you’re finished.

I won’t be showing you step by step how to lay out your fabric – since this is an advanced pattern you should be familiar with using a cutting layout diagram and I really want to spend more time on actually sewing the coat. If you have questions you can see this post on cutting from the Alder Sew-Along.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

Cutting Your Self Fabric

Before you start cutting your fabric make sure that you’ve pre-treated it using the same method you plan on using to launder it with once it’s finished. For cotton, you can toss it in the washer / dryer and be done with it. With wool, most likely you’ll be dry cleaning the fabric. Some people like to put their wool in the dryer with damp towels but I’ve never done that so I can’t recommend or not recommend that method. Occasionally if I have a sort of questionable wool source I’ll take the yardage in to get dry cleaned before I get started. This usually happens when I’m purchasing from a jobber who may not always list, or know, the complete content. Any dry cleaner will do this and if you think your dry cleaner might find it strange (mine likes to tease me about weird things I bring in sometimes) don’t worry about it, just tell them it’s a blanket. If I’m working with good quality wool and I’m confident I know the complete fiber content (usually 100% wool), I just give it a good steam press before cutting and get to it. I’ve personally never had any trouble with shrinkage from dry cleaning after the fact.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

Matching Stipes, Plaids & Prints with a Two Piece Sleeve

If you’re using a fabric that has a print, stripe, or plaid you’ll most likely want to match your print across the pieces of the coat. I have a tutorial for plaid matching here (the same method applies for prints & stripes) but since this pattern has a two piece sleeve that slightly complicates things.

Everything is the same as the tutorial I linked to, except for the two piece sleeve. To mark that you’re going to want to take the two pieces of sleeve and align them with each other along the side seams. From there you can mark a line across the underarm of the lower sleeve piece and transfer that to the upper sleeve. Since the side seams are matched up your print will match across the two pieces.

Cutting Your Lining

As for the lining, if you’re using Bemberg you’ll want to do a full press of the fabric prior to cutting because it does occasionally shrink with heat. I usually do a press with light steam on both sides of the fabric prior to cutting. If you’re using cotton or flannel, again wash the fabric in the same way you intend on laundering the final garment.

While I love the Bemberg on the body and sleeves of my coats, I like to cut my zipper bands and hood lining out of a more decorative fabric. You can use flannel for the entire lining of the coat, I did this on the original grey version of this coat, but one thing I’ve found is that sometimes the friction between the flannel and the garment you’re wearing underneath can result in the coat creeping up your leg a bit.

Cutting Your Fusible Interfacing

Since we’re not using bonded fusible for this coat you’ll want to make sure you pay attention to the grain line on your pattern pieces. In addition to fusing the standard pieces such as the facings and front bands, we’re also going to fuse a few high stress places. The point of this is is to reinforce the fabric in the points that wear faster than other non-stress points of the coat. We’ll be reinforcing the yokes and around the armholes as these places take a lot of stress from the arms moving as well as the area behind the pockets.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 03: Cutting & Prepping Your Pieces | Grainline Studio

Prepping Your Pieces

The last thing we’ll cover today is prepping the coat to begin sewing by fusing all interfacing. Make sure you use a press cloth between the iron and the fusible to keep your iron clean. Follow the instructions included with your fusible interfacing to adhere the interfacing to the self fabric. If you need further instruction on this please reference this post.

Next up: Assembling the Fronts, Backs, and Pockets & Attaching the Pockets to your coat

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Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Gathering Your Supplies

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

Today I’m going to walk you through everything you’ll need to make your Cascade Duffle Coat. I know a lot of you have already shopped for your fabrics & notions, in that case you can use this post as a check list to make sure you’ve got everything you need to dive right in.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

The most important thing you’ll need when making the Cascade is your main fabric. The suggested fabric for the shell of the coat is medium to heavy weight coating fabric. There are many ways that shops describe fabrics suitable for coating, such as Melton wool, Boiled wool, felted wool or occasionally just the term coating weight is used. Double face wool is nice because, being two layers of fabric woven together, it’s quite warm. The downside to double face wool is that you may have trouble with the front bands and the facings being too bulky. For the red plaid sample coat I removed the navy backing wool on those pieces to reduce bulk. In case you’re not feeling a solid color, wool coating comes in a variety of prints and textures as well including plaid and check, I even found this little cabled texture coating. If you’d like more in-depth information about choosing a wool, you can check out this post from last winter, Tips for Choosing Wool Coating.

A few places that I’ve ordered from before that offer high quality wool coating are Mood, Britex, Emma One Sock and Fancy Tiger Crafts which has amazing Pendleton wool coating (you’ll have to call or email to view what’s available and order). There are of course many shops that sell wool coating but these are the shops I’ve ordered yardage from and been extremely happy with. If you have a local shop that sells wool definitely check that out since you’ll be able to feel the fabric first hand, or I do highly recommend ordering a swatch if you can.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

If you’re living somewhere where a full on wool coat might be a bit much, you might consider trying the Cascade in a lighter fabric such as canvas, twill, denim, or waxed canvas. When looking for a twill, canvas or denim you’ll want to make sure they’re at least bottom weight or heavier, and I would recommend not using fabric with stretch as they can tend to stretch out and wind up a bit wavy at the edges when you’re working with them as much as we will be with this coat. Pretty much every fabric store offers up some form of one of these fabrics so you should have no problem finding them.

Waxed canvas is another great option for a lighter version of the Cascade. Since it’s treated with wax the canvas becomes a water resistant (though not waterproof) and ages over time similarly to leather. It’s really a beautiful fabric, though unfortunately it’s a bit hard to find in the retail fabric market. The swatches above came from Grey’s Fabric in Boston, though most have sold out at this point. As far as waxed canvas by the yard your best bet is probably Etsy. Bag Supply Company is just one of the companies that shows up when you search “waxed canvas” in the search bar. If you’re feeling up for a challenge, check out Thread Theory’s Otter Wax, you can use it to wax your own canvas!

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

For the lining of your Cascade Duffle, I recommend using Bemberg ‘Ambiance’ which is a 100% Rayon lining. It’s slightly more expensive than other lining fabrics but it’s hands down my favorite lining. Bemberg is so much easier to work with than its poly counterpart and being Rayon, it breathes and stands up to wear quite well. Did I mention they don’t collect static? So nice. You can find Bemberg ‘Ambiance’ at Vogue, Fabrics.com, Mood, or check your local shop of course!

You will also need fusible interfacing for your coat. I’ve covered interfacing quite a bit on this blog before but for my coats I used a medium weight tricot fusible to get the job done. I find that the tricot allows the fabric to move and give the way wool naturally does. This isn’t a tailored coat so you don’t need any fancy tailoring interfacings, and you are free to use a woven interfacing if you prefer. The only interfacing I would implore you to stay away from are any bonded interfacings as even the thinnest ones act as cardboard when glued to your fabric. You can view my previous posts on interfacing here:

Fusible Interfacing for Coating | Selecting Interfacing | My Favorite Fusibles
Archer Sew Along : Selecting and Applying Interfacing

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

If you choose to insert the zipper into your coat you’ll need either an 18″ or 22″ separating zipper. These zippers are readily available at most craft and sewing stores so you shouldn’t have any difficulty finding one.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

Coats & Clark is available at JoAnn fabrics making it perhaps the most readily available zipper out there. YKK is stocked at a lot of smaller sewing stores and my all time favorite zippers of all time, RiRi are the least readily available zipper of this bunch. This is the zipper I used on my coats. You can find them if you live in NYC at Pacific Trimming and probably somewhere in LA, though I’m not familiar with shopping there but they are much more expensive than the other two zippers. I’ll be stocking up again at Pacific Trimming in Feb since this is my last one!

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

When you purchase your zipper, make sure that the end of the zipper looks like this. There are a lot of different kinds of zippers out there!

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

You’re going to need three toggle fasteners to make your coat. These Dritz ones are available in black & brown and are probably the most readily available pre-made toggle buttons. That said, the ‘leather’ tab is horrible to sew through, even with a leather needle. On the plaid coat I cut the button off the Dritz tabs and created my loops and tabs, and for the first coat, the original grey one, I created those closures myself using three purchased buttons identical to the ones above. I purchased my buttons at M&J Trimming in New York (the selection in store is much better than their website) and the toggle closures on the red plaid Cascade were obtained through Britex in SF. I don’t believe they’re on the website but I’m sure you could call to inquire.

If you’re making your own toggles and are going the traditional route in addition to the buttons you’ll need leather scraps (search ‘leather scraps’ or ‘leather remnant’ on Etsy and you will be rewarded), leather cord, krazy glue (or some other strong glue that holds on leather), and leather cord.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

You’ll need thread of course, I just used Gütermann all purpose polyester thread. You may want to spring for the big spool of your color, or grab a few small ones.

I forgot to take photos of the needles you’ll need but since we’ll be sewing through so much fabric I would recommend a thicker all purpose needle for the bulk of the coat. For the toggles pick yourself up a pack of leather needles, you won’t regret it.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

The typical cutting supplies will be needed, rotary cutter or dressmakers shears, depending on which you like, and a small embroidery scissor for all the grading of seams I’m about to have you do.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

A tape measure, ruler, and seam gauge will all come in handy.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

You’ll need some way to stick your toggles onto your fabric to hold them in place while you sew. You can use regular old scotch tape, or try a fabric glue stick. I purchased the Sewline glue stick at Drygoods in Seattle and the Collins glue stick at Blackbird Fabrics.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

I always like to have my bone folder handy, it makes turning points so easy and there’s never the risk of puncturing the corner with a sharp edge.

I used extra fine pins for assembling the lining and these long thin (very sharp) quilting pins from Clover for the coat. Since you’re going through many layers of fabric the long pins are nice as they can hold a bit more. These clover pins seem to be sharper and thinner than regular quilting pins which I really like.

As far as sewing machine feet, the two I used are my 1/4″ foot and my walking foot. The walking foot definitely comes in handy when going through all those layers, it keeps everything moving smoothly and evenly through the machine.

Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along: Day 01: Gathering Your Supplies | Grainline Studio

I really like to use chalk pens when marking wool and bemberg. The top chalk liners are available at pretty much every small sewing store and they’re great because they come in a wide variety of colors to stand out against your fabric. The bottom chalk pen is new to me, I just picked it up at Drygoods when I was out there over Thanksgiving and it’s been great so far. It has the finest chalk tip which of course I love.

There are a few other things that you might find useful when making your Cascade Duffle.

1. A tailors ham and sleeve roll. Not only do these help you get in and press the curves of your coat, when pressing wool you want the wooly side facing up towards the coat, this helps to keep the steam in and create a better press on your coat.

2. You may find a press cloth or clapper useful. Honestly I don’t use either (though I do know how and have used both) but they can help to achieve a better press on your wool by again, holding in the steam so that the wool will set. I just use my hand or forearm for this which I kind of don’t recommend unless you also have no heat sensitivity left in your pressing arm.

3. Obviously you will need an iron but I’m between the two so I didn’t have one set up to photograph.

So that’s it! On Monday we’ll be starting to assemble the coat so gather those supplies and lets do it!

13 Comments Posted in Cascade Sew Along
Cascade Sew Along

Cascade Sew-Along: Announcement & Schedule

Cascade Duffel Coat Sew Along | Grainline Studio

Alright, the patterns have shipped and it’s time to start the Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along! A lot of you have been asking me when this would start and I’m excited to dive right in. We’ll be going along with the instruction booklet, as usual, but this will give you the opportunity to sew with me and ask any questions you might have as we go. If you’re nervous about tackling a large project like a coat, don’t worry, it’s actually not as scary as it sounds and is such a rewarding project. Since I make clothes like it’s my job (errr well it is) people rarely give me the “wow you sewed that?!” response to anything anymore…except coats. It still blows people away!

Cascade Duffel Coat Sew Along | Grainline Studio

Here’s the schedule we’ll be sticking to, 11 days to sew your coat and 2 days for variations.

Day 01: Schedule & Badges
Day 02: Gathering Your Supplies
Day 03: Choosing a Size, Cutting, and Prepping Your Pieces
Day 04: Assemble Fronts, Backs, and Pockets & Attaching Pockets
Day 05: Attaching Front Bands & Toggles
Day 06: Creating Your Own Toggles (if you’re into customization)
Day 07: Complete Coat Body
Day 08: View A -Assemble & Attach Collar
Day 09: View B – Assemble & Attach Hood
Day 10: Assemble Linings & Facings
Day 11: Bag Your Jacket & Admire Your Beautiful Cascade Duffle Coat!
Day 12: Variation 1 – Cascade as a Vest
Day 13: Variation 2 – Cascade in Spring or Fall Fabric

Cascade Duffel Coat Sew Along | Grainline Studio

I’ve got some badges below if you’d like one for your blog just copy and paste the code inside the boxes onto your site, or if you’re sharing your progress on social media, tag your photos as #cascadedufflecoat or #cascadesewalong and we can create a little sew along community. If you still need the pattern you can grab a copy here. I can’t wait to see what we sew up together!

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Cascade Badge | Grainline Studio

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Cascade Badge | Grainline Studio

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Cascade Badge | Grainline Studio

19 Comments Posted in Cascade Sew Along