Alright, cuff time. First you’re going to want to fold and stitch your pleats in place. The direction of the pleats is marked on the pattern but if you don’t have it handy, you’re going to want to press the pleats to the back of the sleeve.
Stitch the interfaced edge of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. You’ll have a half inch overhang on each side of the cuff.
Press the cuff away from the sleeve and fold the un-interfaced side of the sleeve up to meet the upper cuff edge. Fold the top edge of the cuff’s seam allowance over and pin in place.
Stitch along the sides of the cuffs, grade your seam allowances and trim your corners.
Flip your cuff right side out and fold the inside cuff seam allowance under. Either slip stitch this in place or topstitch it down from the right side of the cuff in the next step.
Topstitch around your cuff and that’s that! Now for the hem.
The hem is super easy, you’re just going to be turning up two 1/4″ folds. I like to trim a wedge off the front plackets to reduce bulk and eliminate the possibility of the edge sticking out.
Stitch the hem in place and that’s that! Only the buttonholes left tomorrow. See you then!
Okay time for the exciting part, are you guys ready to put in your collars? We’re going to both assemble the collars and attach it today, it seemed easier and less confusing than splitting it into two posts. This is a pretty long post, 20 images and 2 videos, so I hope I’ve covered everything in enough detail so that you’re able to follow the steps easily and without much confusion. As usual let me know if you have questions and try not to laugh at the sound of my stuffy nosed child voice. Click below to follow along!
This is a relaxing sew along day, we’re setting our sleeves and sewing our side seams – no big deal. Start by placing two lines of basting along the sleeve cap between the front and back notches. I like to place one line at 3/8″ and another at 5/8″ that way your stitching line falls between the two lines of basting.
Pin the sleeve to the shirt with right sides facing. Ease the sleeve cap between the front and back notches and stitch sleeve in place. Finish your edges as desired. I serged mine but you could zig zag, pink, or french seam if you’re using a lightweight fabric or silk.
Match the side seams with right sides facing, the seam of the sleeve should face away from the garment towards the cuff of the sleeve. Stitch and finish seams in the same method you used above. Press side seams to the back of the garment.
The following instructions on topstitching the side seams is completely optional and gives the look of a flat felled seam. This is done on a lot of menswear shirts + a high percentage of ready to wear shirts I’ve seen. I don’t do this on silk or if I french seamed my side seams but for this chambray it’s a yes.
Start by turning the garment inside out. It will be easier to stitch through the length of the sleeve this way, I promise.
Then just start stitching at the hem, I stitch 1/4″ from the seam line, and continue till you reach the cuff edge of the sleeve. Once you get into the sleeve you’re going to have a lot of extra fabric pooling up that will be pretty awkward. Don’t worry about it, just keep piling it up behind the foot as shown above and keep going. Repeat for the other side.
That’s that on the sleeves and side seams. Tomorrow we’ll be making and attaching the collars. It’s a bit of a long post but it will be easier to follow if I include it all in one post. Get ready!
Inserting sleeve plackets used to really stress me out. Bad. I’m not really sure why anymore but I think it was something about stitching to within a thread of the placket center that really amped up my stress levels. It sounds so serious the way they describe it in books but it’s actually not a big deal and is pretty quick and painless. With that, lets put our plackets in!
Pin your placket strip to the placket slit on the sleeve with right sides facing. As you can see in the photo above, the two layers will be flush with each other at the two ends but the center point of the sleeve slit will be approximately 1/4″ from the edge of the placket piece.
Stitch along the placket opening 1/4″ from the edge of the placket piece. You’re going to want to just catch the center of the sleeve opening making sure you don’t stitch any folds or tucks into the opening.
Press the placket away from the sleeve and fold over the 1/4″ seam allowance.
Fold this side of the placket up onto the underside of the sleeve so that it just covers the stitching line you made while attaching the placket to the sleeve. This will enable you to neatly stitch from the front in the next step while catching all layers.
Stitch along the length of the placket as closely to the edge as possible. I stitched at 1/16″ but do whatever you’re comfortable with.
This step is optional, I haven’t found it in my books oddly, but I really like doing this part. I think it really anchors things nicely. Once the placket is sewn in place, fold the placket in half with right sides facing and stitch diagonally across the top of the placket. Make sure that you only sew to the stitching line, if you cross that line it will create a tuck in the front of the sleeve.
Press the side of the placket that hangs to the front of the body under. Repeat all of this for the other sleeve. That wasn’t so bad was it? Tomorrow we’ll be inserting the sleeves and sewing up those side seams, then we’re in the home stretch of collar, cuffs, hem, buttons.
Today I’m going to show you the first of two methods for attaching the yoke. This method is really straightforward and super easy. We’re going to start by sewing the inside yoke piece to the shirt back. You’re going to want the wrong side of the shirt facing the right side of the yoke piece, then baste together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Next we’re going to attach the outer yoke piece. With the right sides of the yoke and shirt back facing stitch through all three layers. Grade seam allowances.
Press both yokes up away from the shirt back and topstitch along the center back seam.
Pin the center front pieces to the outer yoke with right sides together and stitch. You’ll now have something that looks like this.
Grade the yoke seam allowance and press seam towards yoke.
Fold under the seam allowance of the inside yoke and press. When doing this, much like the button band, I like to make sure the folded edge overlaps the seam line by a hair so that when I stitch from the front it catches all layers neatly.
Topstitch along the yoke seam you just folded to anchor down the inside yoke. I stitched at 1/16″ but you can do whatever your comfortable with, just remember that you’re also attaching the inside yoke so you don’t want to go too far from the seam line.
Stitch the two layers of the yoke together in the seam allowance along the neck and armhole edges and you’re done! Stay tuned tomorrow for the other method for attaching your yoke.
Alright, it’s time to prepare our backs, you guys all ready? We’ll do View A first because there isn’t much to this one. Pleat the two notches in to CB and baste across the pleat to secure. That’s it! Unfortunately I lost the photo of the basted pleat in the Great Computer Fiasco of 2013 but hopefully you get the idea.
View B is a bit more involved but it’s still really easy. Place two lines of basting stitches between the notches on the top edges of the bottom back piece.
Match the notches with the upper back (right sides together) and pin the outer non-gathered edges together. Then pull your gathering threads to gather the center portion together. Arrange gathers evenly and pin in place.
Stitch along the seam. I like to do this with the gathers facing up so you can be sure they’re laying straight while you go over them. No surprises.
Remove your gathering threads.
Finish your seam as desired, I serged mine. Press seam upwards.
Topstitch the seam down at 1/4″ which both looks fancy and also keeps that seam from flipping this way and that keeping the gathers looking neat and firmly pointed downwards.
That’s that! You can trim off those little pointy seam allowances at the edges if you like, or just serge them off when we finish the side seams.
Up next – two ways to attach a yoke. Get pumped!
Alright dudes, are you ready to attach those pockets? Start by folding the top edge of the pocket down twice along the notches. If you’re using silk for your Archer here’s a little trick I use to get really straight lines. Lay the pocket on top of one of the paper pieces you cut it out with, fold the paper with the silk inside of it and press. You’ll get really crisp straight lines with ease.
Stitch along the folded edge to secure the top flap. Fold under the raw edges at 1/4″ and press.
Align your pocket according to the pocket placement marks on the pattern. You may also want to measure out from the button band to make sure your pocket is really straight. With all the vertical lines running up this top (pockets and placket) you’ll notice if a pocket has gone awry while wearing your shirt.
Stitch as close the edge of the pocket as possible. I stitch at 1/16″ but do whatever you’re comfortable with. I tried to make a .gif to show the direction you’ll want to stitch in to make this pattern but I could not figure out how to make one on Photoshop 6! Videos – easy peasy, .gifs – no dice. If you have questions about this let me know below and I’ll try to figure out a diagram of some sort. You can also just stitch along the three sides without the anchor stitches up top, they just keep your pocket in place more sturdily if you plan on actually using it, I have a feeling for most of us it’s just for style points.
Now you’ll notice this extra seam allowance fabric after you stitch your pockets down. It can tend to stick up and look messy. Here’s what I do to that…
Chop it off! Just angle down to nothing at the top point. Since you made those anchor stitches you can cut off this excess without worry about trimming too close to the pocket edge stitching. That’s that on the pockets. Up next – getting the backs of Views A and B ready to attach the yoke, see you tomorrow!
[photos by Julia Stotz]
I thought it was finally time to post the finished photos of my Rope Print Archer from Britex Fabrics now that they have the related post up on their blog. I LOVE this fabric! It’s a silky soft ivory habotai with a beautiful drape. It seems a bit heavier than other habotai I’ve worked with, in an amazingly good way. It sewed together like a dream and I’ve been getting lots of wear out of it, maybe too much wear. The post done in correlation with this shirt can be seen on the Britex Blog here, it’s full of tips and tricks for making a button down shirt in silk. I’d post it here but it seems like it may be a bit repetitive with the sew along going on. If you’re working ahead on a silk version though, you should check it out!