grainline

Alright, cuff time. First you’re going to want to fold and stitch your pleats in place. The direction of the pleats is marked on the pattern but if you don’t have it handy, you’re going to want to press the pleats to the back of the sleeve.

Stitch the interfaced edge of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. You’ll have a half inch overhang on each side of the cuff.

Press the cuff away from the sleeve and fold the un-interfaced side of the sleeve up to meet the upper cuff edge. Fold the top edge of the cuff’s seam allowance over and pin in place.

Stitch along the sides of the cuffs, grade your seam allowances and trim your corners.

Flip your cuff right side out and fold the inside cuff seam allowance under. Either slip stitch this in place or topstitch it down from the right side of the cuff in the next step.

Topstitch around your cuff and that’s that! Now for the hem.

The hem is super easy, you’re just going to be turning up two 1/4″ folds. I like to trim a wedge off the front plackets to reduce bulk and eliminate the possibility of the edge sticking out.

Stitch the hem in place and that’s that! Only the buttonholes left tomorrow. See you then!

Alright dudes, are you ready to attach those pockets? Start by folding the top edge of the pocket down twice along the notches. If you’re using silk for your Archer here’s a little trick I use to get really straight lines. Lay the pocket on top of one of the paper pieces you cut it out with, fold the paper with the silk inside of it and press. You’ll get really crisp straight lines with ease.

Stitch along the folded edge to secure the top flap. Fold under the raw edges at 1/4″ and press.

Align your pocket according to the pocket placement marks on the pattern. You may also want to measure out from the button band to make sure your pocket is really straight. With all the vertical lines running up this top (pockets and placket) you’ll notice if a pocket has gone awry while wearing your shirt.

Stitch as close the edge of the pocket as possible. I stitch at 1/16″ but do whatever you’re comfortable with. I tried to make a .gif to show the direction you’ll want to stitch in to make this pattern but I could not figure out how to make one on Photoshop 6! Videos – easy peasy, .gifs – no dice. If you have questions about this let me know below and I’ll try to figure out a diagram of some sort. You can also just stitch along the three sides without the anchor stitches up top, they just keep your pocket in place more sturdily if you plan on actually using it, I have a feeling for most of us it’s just for style points.

Now you’ll notice this extra seam allowance fabric after you stitch your pockets down. It can tend to stick up and look messy. Here’s what I do to that…

Chop it off! Just angle down to nothing at the top point. Since you made those anchor stitches you can cut off this excess without worry about trimming too close to the pocket edge stitching. That’s that on the pockets. Up next – getting the backs of Views A and B ready to attach the yoke, see you tomorrow!